I need to get a longer stem for my tri-bike. I marvel at the range in cost from $30 to nearly $300. Does it really matter whether it is aluminum, magnesium, titanium, or carbon fiber? I have trouble believing one can truly notice the difference between a $30 aluminum stem, and a $300 magnesium stem. Help me make my selection.
On a road or tri bike I don’t think there’s much of a difference save for the weight. Lots of folks are caught up in branding, supposed cache’, looks, etc. but ultimately, a simple, brand X, two bolt face-plate aluminium welded stem will work fine.
Are you “man” enough to go generic? or will you be shamed into the arms race of bike doodads by this bike boutique known as ST?
(Disclosure: this poster decided the '81 Colnago with full Super Record absolutely had to have a Cinelli 1A stem, no other would do. OTOH, the Merlin Triathlon has an, ugh, NASHBAR, gasp, Taiwan tig welded stem had for the grand sum of three bucks at a bike swap. So, go figure.)
I put a FSA K Force stem and bar on my Vortex
I can tell the difference between them and an aluminum Deda stem and aluminum 3TTT bar
The FSA is solid, like planted, and zero flex
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My experience tells me to look for a 4 bolt face plate. Any brand will do. Some look cooler than others.
jaretj
Over an hour race, how much time would you estimate you save with the FSA stem compared to the Deda?
With the massive hills and the 10 gram weight savings, you will likely save a full second.
You will notice a big difference between the $30 aluminum stem and the $300 magnesium stem because the magnesium stem will break.
Get a solid aluminum stem. It just isn’t worth messing around.
I like Salsa stems. I mainly just like the look. A stem is something I definitely don’t want to fail so I like chromoly. Not that I have ever heard of a stem failing.
I’d definitely recommend a 4-bolt faceplate for a tri bike if you use the bars at all for leverage (for example, pulling up on them when climbing). You really need to torque two-bolt faceplates down hard to keep the base bar from rotating when you pull hard on the tri bars. Other than that, it comes down to whether you can find the size/angle you need in a generic. I needed a 90mm -17deg so I went with the Ritchey pro and I’d definitely recommend it. Very strong and reasonably priced. If your sizing needs are more commonly found, go with whatever 4-bolt faceplate stem you can get cheap. I’d definitely stay away from the ultralights. Too fragile for my taste.
“You will notice a big difference between the $30 aluminum stem and the $300 magnesium stem because the magnesium stem will break.”
Bravo, Art, well said.
Some stems are stiff, and some aren’t. I like stiff stems. So, I’m not sure why I have an Easton EA70 stem on my road bike. Thomson makes nice, reasonably priced and very stiff stems.
Make sure the stem is long. Most people, i think, have stems that are too short. Longs stems are good. They handle better than short stems.
"Make sure the stem is long. Most people, i think, have stems that are too short. Longs stems are good. They handle better than short stems. "
I think the time for that choice was when buying the bike. At this point he needs whatever stem puts him in the correct position. If that’s a 80 or 90mm stem, so be it. If you need a 90 and you buy a 120 because you don’t want to affect the bike’s handling, that’s ridiculous.
This is definitely a bike part not worth spending a lot of money on. I like light weight, but no gimmicks. Stick with a quality, aluminum stem that is reasonable. My fav is the Richey WCS or pro series (mid priced at $45-75) or the Deda stems (still not too pricey - even Lance used them - now “badged” as Bontrager). Forget the Mag or Carbon Fiber stems (cool looking for sure, but not worth the money).
Only when it breaks.
yeah, i know. i came off a little obsequious. get the stem that puts you in the right place. and if that means a stubby little 90mm stem, and you’re not 5-1, the bike will probably handle poorly.
i would say what’s ridiculous is buying a bike that requires a 90mm stem in the first place to fit right. but thats me.
i still like stiff stems. and long stems on road bikes.
sounds just like life… make sure the ding-dong is long and get the ladies.
"sounds just like life... make sure the ding-dong is long and get the ladies. "
…and stiffer is better until it breaks…then it is really bad.
Get a solid aluminum stem. It just isn’t worth messing around.
Absolutely. Check http://www.biketechreview.com/stems/index.htm
for a good stem overview of some still-current models. Some of them have major defects. The Deda Newton is in my opinion a serious hazard…and very poorly “engineered.” I posted on an earlier thread about that design being really retarded. IMHO they are risking a lawsuit for the benefit of saving a few grams that no one will ever notice in the real world. edit: There we go, Tom posts the pic of the retarded “design” with no radii, thin crossections in high stress areas, etc. 
I currently ride on a beefy old Profile aluminum piece that weighs about 180g, has generous radii in the right spots, good thread engagement, lots of material around the bolt heads, and isn’t likely to break anytime soon. Once I have the right length down I’ll probably buy an ITM Millennium…fairly stiff and very strong.
Note that having 4 bolts is NOT RELEVANT to the stiffness of the stem. From Kraig “It should also be clear that bar bolt pattern has no material affect on stiffness. For example, it is a common belief that a four bolt pattern will be stiffer than a one or two-bolt pattern.” The main factor in stiffness is the design of the extension bar and not the design of the cap.
A decent quality, aluminum stem in a moderate price range (under $100) is your best bet. The ultra-expensive ones are an invitation for a disaster in my opinion.
In an odd sort of quandry we only see failures in expensive stems as a rule. The less expensive stems usually fail as a result of being over or under torqued by the user.
Here’s an example fro our store, expensive stem:
“i would say what’s ridiculous is buying a bike that requires a 90mm stem in the first place to fit right. but thats me.”
I agree that running a 90mm stem is ridiculous… so just swapped mine out for an 80mm 
Sometimes us crazy-long femured, short torso’d guys gotta do some less than optimal stuff. In all honesty, I think that stem length impact on steering is very overrated. My P3 feels quite stable with a short stem on it, even when I’m running a H3 front and Renn disk in crosswinds.
Alright Tom, that is one scary picture! Will you divulge the manufacturer of that stem so that I can take it off my list?
i was mostly talking about road bikes. running a short stem on a tt/tri frames isn’t a big deal and won’t screw with the handling, as tt/tri bikes pretty much just go in a straight line.
are we dorks or what … ‘arguing’ about stem length on an internet forum. on a saturday night, no less. man, i need a life.