I am not an amazing climber but also like to push it on downhill TTs. I think having a 36 for climbing would be better than a 39 but at the same time getting something close to the top end speed of a 53 would help when I can push those flat or downhill parts. I give up .6mph @ 90rpms. seems like a decent trade-off.
Are there any downsides I am not thinking of?
Might be too much size difference between the chainrings, front derailleur may not be able to shift between such a large difference. Not sure too, but likely to cause problems with the rear derailleur trying to cope with such a large gear range. If you can get the frint der. to work work, you might need a long cage rear der.
Have a read of this
http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html
Even using a triple chainring derailleur on a double chainring it says:
Shimano’s “10-speed” triple front derailers are optimized for a 13 tooth difference, typically 52-39.
Most other Shimano front triple derailers are optimized for a 10 tooth difference between middle and large ring.
if it doesnt work why would Shimano make the combination with the new 9000 series Dura-Ace? I am planning to use this with Di2 so I am not sure if that will help with the shifting or not.
They also have a 52/38 but that doesnt seem like a big enough change but maybe it is just a little easier than a 53/39 and might be a decent next option.
Just finished a year of road racing, rocking the 52, 36 combo (11-28 or 11-23 in the rear, depending on the parcours). Absolutely loved it and highly recommend it…
54/39 with an 11/26 has been incredibly versatile for me. I have a SRAM force front which has been bullet proof and a chain catcher just in case, but haven’t had issues with dropping the chain. I think it is the perfect set up.
only you know how much gear you need. It all depends on the terrain you race on and how fast you are.
Sounds like you understand how to figure it, so do the math and trust yourself.
54/39 with an 11/26 has been incredibly versatile for me. I have a SRAM force front which has been bullet proof and a chain catcher just in case, but haven’t had issues with dropping the chain. I think it is the perfect set up.
You are either a very strong cyclist (well over 4.0 w/kg) or have very flat terrain.
Or he doesn’t do long events.
54/39 with an 11/26 has been incredibly versatile for me. I have a SRAM force front which has been bullet proof and a chain catcher just in case, but haven’t had issues with dropping the chain. I think it is the perfect set up.
You are either a very strong cyclist (well over 4.0 w/kg) or have very flat terrain.
if it doesnt work why would Shimano make the combination with the new 9000 series Dura-Ace? .
Fair enough, I didn’t know that. Go ahead and put the 36/52 on.
52/36 works just fine. I’ve been using for a few months now with no issues at all. My Kestrel 4000 is BB30 and it came with 50/34. I didn’t like it at all and Installed a Ultegra crank, 53/39, with adaptors but after a while it started creaking I put back the compact crank with 52/36 Sram Red rings and I have been very happy with it.
Road racers love 52-36, especially if you aren’t exactly sure what you’ll be up against. I’m in the midst of sqitching myself. I say go for it.
I use 52x36 on my road race bike, gives me a few extra gears for hills and makes climbs easier in the pack. I don’t really like it though for everyday riding, you really have to “throw” the front derailleur to make the jump.
I have a Tri bike (53x39) and another road bike (53x39) and I ride those 99.9% of the time and I live in a hilly area. Almost every 20 mile ride from my house is over 1000 feet of climbing. The 52x36 is great got road racing but I wouldn’t recommend it for training.
I think this will eventually end up being the new standard for road racing.
A 52/36 certainly works, is called mid-compact, and is getting quite popular. I have a 50/36 (Q-rings) on my road bike and a 52/36 (round rings) on the tri bike. Not sure if I like it yet. If not, another 50 is going on. And possibly switching to Q as well.
I like the 52/36 I am on now, but I am looking to get a Quarq. What is the best way to go when my options are 53/39 or 50/34?
What do you maybe not like about it?
I like the 52/36 I am on now, but I am looking to get a Quarq. What is the best way to go when my options are 53/39 or 50/34?
Get the 50/34, swap rings, get recalibrated, sell your old crank as a 50/34.
What do you maybe not like about it?
Feels harder. Which may be the round rings, or that I’m not used to a tri bike. What I do know is that it doesn’t give as good a ratio for riding on the KKRM for my target wattages. The shifting works pretty well on a Rotor crank, which I think is partly an effect of the bar-end shifting seeming much “stronger” than STI.
Edit: Also, I spend a lot of time in the big ring while riding/ racing, and I’m not sure that will work with the 52 instead.
I like the 52/36 I am on now, but I am looking to get a Quarq. What is the best way to go when my options are 53/39 or 50/34?
Get the 50/34 and put your 52/36 rings on it.
I’m 183 lbs, live in the Santa Monica Mtns, and do all distances. I do tend towards lower cadence. Just sharing my .02 on gear preference. I still haven’t found a circumstance in which this gearing doesn’t work.