I know there have been a number of threads on this, but no LBS i have found can verify that carrying a carbon bike by the top tube is a problem (so long as the straps are soft).
if anybody out there carries their bike around this way (ie by the top tube on a trunk or hitch mount rack), pls let me know
Thanks
SS
Why would this be a problem?
I’m not sure what everyone else does…I don’t have a carbon frame but, I’ve been told it is a very bad idea to carry a carbon frame this way. The reasoning has been, the frame is not designed to handle the stress/force in the manner it is being applied. You have a long piece of carbon fiber and a large amout of force being applied to a small area of the frame in a way which was probably not intended. The first time I heard this was in a triathlon clinic and I’ve also heard it from a couple bike shops. Call the bike manufacturer if you want to get the best answer.
My reasoning…if you’re going to spend the money on a carbon frame bike, don’t cheap out on other things…a roof rack in this case.
Who knows, I could be completely wrong.
I know there have been a number of threads on this, but no LBS i have found can verify that carrying a carbon bike by the top tube is a problem (so long as the straps are soft).
if anybody out there carries their bike around this way (ie by the top tube on a trunk or hitch mount rack), pls let me know
Thanks
SS
I often transport mine on a hitch rack that way. If the frame were not strong enough to be able to support the weight of the bike it would likely fall apart in seconds while riding it.
Likewise, I often transport the bike (carbon) this way. Just make sure the straps and stuff are tight so the frame is not able to bounce on the arms.
I know there have been a number of threads on this, but no LBS i have found can verify that carrying a carbon bike by the top tube is a problem (so long as the straps are soft).
if anybody out there carries their bike around this way (ie by the top tube on a trunk or hitch mount rack), pls let me know
Thanks
SS
Carbon bike by the top tube? Rack? NO - carbon tri bike must be carried ONLY on the rear seat wrapped in pillows. Otherwise it will be damaged…
Main concern is having to “crank” down on the top tube, as well as you don’t want your bike “swinging” on the back otherwise.
Yakima makes an adjustable adapter that goes from the stem to the seat post and lets you crank down as hard as you want without stressing the top tube.
I’m not sure what everyone else does…I don’t have a carbon frame but, I’ve been told it is a very bad idea to carry a carbon frame this way. The reasoning has been, the frame is not designed to handle the stress/force in the manner it is being applied. You have a long piece of carbon fiber and a large amout of force being applied to a small area of the frame in a way which was probably not intended. The first time I heard this was in a triathlon clinic and I’ve also heard it from a couple bike shops. Call the bike manufacturer if you want to get the best answer.
My reasoning…if you’re going to spend the money on a carbon frame bike, don’t cheap out on other things…a roof rack in this case.
Who knows, I could be completely wrong.
These are the arguments usually given for roof racks over hitch/trunk racks. On the other hand, I’ve never seen a carbon bike that was broken as a result of being transported on a hitch/trunk rack. If there is a picture of a bike that broke on a hitch/trunk rack, could someone please post it. I’ve seen plenty of pictures of bikes that were destroyed as a result of being on a roof rack (granted they were driven into a garage by drivers that had forgotten about them). I use a trunk rack and have not had a problem (knock on wood). If the forces applied to the bike on the hitch/trunk rack are enough to break the bike then I’d be very worried about riding the bike in general. I’m also not aware of any bike manufacturer that says their bikes can’t be transported on a hitch/trunk rack. Of course, I could be completely wrong too.
Main concern is having to “crank” down on the top tube, as well as you don’t want your bike “swinging” on the back otherwise.
Yakima makes an adjustable adapter that goes from the stem to the seat post and lets you crank down as hard as you want without stressing the top tube.
Why would you crank down on the top tube? Just get it on there tight enough that it’s not going to slide out. If you don’t want the bike swinging around, run straps from the wheels to the bottom of the trunk or rack. Nothing needs to be ‘cranked down’ in this scenario.
Main concern is having to “crank” down on the top tube, as well as you don’t want your bike “swinging” on the back otherwise.
Yakima makes an adjustable adapter that goes from the stem to the seat post and lets you crank down as hard as you want without stressing the top tube.
Not that I crank down hard on the top tub at all but I think I would rather do that then apply a lot of pressure to the seat post or stem. Assuming that one of those three things were to fail I am thinking a broken top tube would be easier to walk away from…
Yes, I’ve carried my carbon bike with this rack (http://www.bikerackshops.com/SARBONES.html) too many times to count.
I have many times before and haven’t had a problem.
However, the manual that came with my CAAD10 specifically says not to carry aluminum or carbon fiber bikes on a top-tube mount rack. I still would if I had to, but since I have a wagon I really have no need to use my bike rack anymore.
However, the manual that came with my CAAD10 specifically says not to carry aluminum or carbon fiber bikes on a top-tube mount rack. I still would if I had to, but since I have a wagon I really have no need to use my bike rack anymore.
If this is the manual that you’re referring to: http://cdn.cannondale.com/Manuals/2010_Cannondale_Bicycle_Owners_Manual_124451.pdf
This is the portion I see regarding bike racks:
PART II
APPENDIX E
Bicycle Racks
Bicycle automobile racks are available from many different manufacturers and many different rack designs
exist. They are convenient devices to transport your bike. However, any bicycle rack has the potential to
seriously damage your bicycle. Damage can occur immediately due to some aspect of an incompatible or poor
rack design. Damage can occur after repeated mounting, and dis-mounting. Damage can also happen while
the the bike is being transported in the rack. We can’t cover all the possible ways in which a rack can cause
damage to your bike.
WARNING
READ AND FOLLOW THE RACK MANUFACTURER’S INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE MOUNTING YOUR BIKE.
Both carbon and aluminum frames and forks can be damaged (crushed, cracked, or dented) by the clamps
and support systems of a bike rack. Both carbon and aluminum can suffer serious abrasion damage by the
movement of the bike in the rack during transport. All damage to your bike is very serious, that is why you
must take extra care when choosing a bike rack and when actually mounting your bike in the rack.
I don’t think that says not to put a carbon or aluminum bike on a hitch/trunk rack. I think it is a general caution to be careful when using a bike rack (which is a good idea).
My apologies if you were referring to a different portion of the manual (but I could not find any other mention of bike racks in the manual).
Awesome - just want i needed to hear. i will upgrade to a tray mount eventually but i dont have the time prior to some upcoming races. my LBS said they carry the race team bikes every week by their top tubes.
good to go!
PS i also agree that wrapping the bike with bubble wrap and pillows and sitting it on the back seat with a cup of tea is ideal, but my kids don’t fit as well on the rear rack
There is an easy fix for $30 and it works like a charm…also for those w/o an aero seat post clamp on their work stand:
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Saris makes this rack, works great for us (file photo); personally, I think in the course of travel there’s too many unexpected harsh bumps that can send a shocking jolt to the top tube when transporting using a conventional rack. I also fear the roof rack, too easy to forget and have a mishap.
I’ve been more concerned with that bar (which I have) hurting my carbon seatpost, no? seems like a more concentrated, more rigid application of force than the rubber trays on my thule trunk rack.
It’s a tough call though - I have a pretty heavily sloping top tube on my bike, so i have to clamp it in to the rack by the stem and the junction of top tube and seat tube - anyone think I’d be better off using the adapter?
Main concern is having to “crank” down on the top tube, as well as you don’t want your bike “swinging” on the back otherwise.
Yakima makes an adjustable adapter that goes from the stem to the seat post and lets you crank down as hard as you want without stressing the top tube.
Not that I crank down hard on the top tub at all but I think I would rather do that then apply a lot of pressure to the seat post or stem. Assuming that one of those three things were to fail I am thinking a broken top tube would be easier to walk away from…
I have a Saris trunk rack that allows you to adjust width on the top tube brackets, so one is adjacent to seat tube, the other close to head tube, those have to be strong places for that sort of weight and stress. It also has a third strap for seat tube, which keeps it from swinging.
I totally agree you need to avoid the bike “swinging” but I would NOT, per a previous post, strap from the wheels - wheels are NOT meant to take lateral stress applied that way. Instead run a strap from somewhere around the bottom bracket to the bottom of the rack.
I’ve been doing it with no problems
jaretj
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I use a tire mounted rear rack on the back of my Jeep Wrangler. I’ve been doing it for years with no problem, everything from across the country, across the state, across town.
I’m pretty sure that the bike weight (18 lbs) is not large enough to exert damaging forces on the top tube. As long as you have it secured properly and not clamped too tight I’m sure you will be fine.