First time with a smart trainer (Tacx). I put on an old 10speed cassette and the bike (2012 P2)
I’m curious if people find it necessary to adjust the rear derailleur when going from wheel to trainer?
First time with a smart trainer (Tacx). I put on an old 10speed cassette and the bike (2012 P2)
I’m curious if people find it necessary to adjust the rear derailleur when going from wheel to trainer?
Yes, most likely
I have to adjust the der on the trainer too. If you really need to fix it check if you are tightening the adjuster on the der. (turning clockwise) then it is possible to put a thin shim behind the trainer cassette to move it slightly outboard relative to its current position. If you are loosening the adjuster (turning counterclockwise) then you would shim the cassette on your road wheel to move it outboard relative to its current position. The trouble with shimming one wheel cassette is that you might need to shim all of them if you have multiples.
Rich
I dont have to index it andi routinely switch between neo 2t and wheel. I indexed it on the trainer
No. I have a Neo 2, and I have not adjusted my RD ever.
No. I have a Neo 2, and I have not adjusted my RD ever.
Yeah same (but Wahoo Kickr Core). I didn’t even know about this and now it worries me lol. My setup seems to be operating fine.
I don’t need to!
In theory you should not have to. Pros get spare wheels in races all the time (even from neutral support) and they index just fine.
The problem is probably with hub type and spacers. The wheel probably has a 10spd hub, and the trainer has an 11spd hub; so the spacers needed to put the cassette in the same position relative to the rear derailleur are not the same. Putting a 10spd cassette on an 11spd hub requires a 1.85mm spacer placed on the freehub body before you put on the cassette.
Is hub/cassette spacing the same across brands?
I dont have to adjust between a DT240 wheel with Red cassette and my Hammer with 105 cassette. But maybe other hubs have slightly different dimensions.
First time with a smart trainer (Tacx). I put on an old 10speed cassette and the bike (2012 P2)
I’m curious if people find it necessary to adjust the rear derailleur when going from wheel to trainer?I have a Saris H3, no need to adjust the derailleur. Indexing shifts perfectly on the trainer just like it does on the road.
Is hub/cassette spacing the same across brands?
I dont have to adjust between a DT240 wheel with Red cassette and my Hammer with 105 cassette. But maybe other hubs have slightly different dimensions.
Spacing is consistent across Shimano/SRAM (except for AXS) and clones like microshift.
“Is hub/cassette spacing the same across brands?”
Yes. Shimano and SRAM 10 and 11 speed cassettes are the same.
Shimano freehub bodies are also manufactured to the same specifications no matter what brand the hub is.
I’m not talking about spacing between cogs, but the cassette relative to dropouts. In other words can the cassette on one hub be slightly to the left or right compared to being mounted on another hub
Yes they can be out, especially if it’s an aftermarket hub which was probably designed to take campag 11, as that was the harder workaround back then.
They tend to be more inboard.
So I guess that answers the question for OP, too. Might need to index
So I’ve got a Hammer and an 8 speed drivetrain with my Allez. 99.9999% of the year I used Trainerroad with ERG mode, so I didn’t care much about indexing, it was just set it in one gear and forget it. But I did some zwift racing recently and had annoying chain noise at the smaller 3 cogs (like 12-13-14, I forget what exactly I have). I went as far as totally setting up my derailleur on the trainer, removing the cable, setting the high limit screw and reindexing and I still can’t get rid of the rub/noise at the smaller end of the cassette. As far as i’m aware, this experience isn’t unique to my situation, I’ve seen folks with different drivetrains/trainer models complain about similar difficulties. So if you’re on zwift this may be a thing for you, but if you’re doing erg mode workouts you might not have to worry much about readjusting.
I have to adjust the der on the trainer too. If you really need to fix it check if you are tightening the adjuster on the der. (turning clockwise) then it is possible to put a thin shim behind the trainer cassette to move it slightly outboard relative to its current position. If you are loosening the adjuster (turning counterclockwise) then you would shim the cassette on your road wheel to move it outboard relative to its current position. The trouble with shimming one wheel cassette is that you might need to shim all of them if you have multiples.
Rich
This was the issue, when I put the cassette on it was missing the shim.
Thx all
I have the Tacx Neo as well. I don’t ‘have’ to adjust the rear derailleur but one or two clicks (Di2) makes the drivetrain a wee bit quieter. Would probably equate to 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the barrel adjusted of a mechanical groupset.
So I’ve got a Hammer and an 8 speed drivetrain with my Allez. 99.9999% of the year I used Trainerroad with ERG mode, so I didn’t care much about indexing, it was just set it in one gear and forget it. But I did some zwift racing recently and had annoying chain noise at the smaller 3 cogs (like 12-13-14, I forget what exactly I have). I went as far as totally setting up my derailleur on the trainer, removing the cable, setting the high limit screw and reindexing and I still can’t get rid of the rub/noise at the smaller end of the cassette. As far as i’m aware, this experience isn’t unique to my situation, I’ve seen folks with different drivetrains/trainer models complain about similar difficulties. So if you’re on zwift this may be a thing for you, but if you’re doing erg mode workouts you might not have to worry much about readjusting.
I have a 105 cassette on the Hammer an have the same thing. I only train in ERG on TrainerRoad, so not a problem. But only the 16t is quiet. Every other gear, even just one cog left or right, are much much louder.