I’ve managed to score a 3T Funda fork which I’ll be fitting as an after-market item on a P3C. I’ve cut plenty of carbon aerobars, but never a fork. Is this difficult for any reason? I’ll be able to measure off of the fork I’m removing and I’m pretty confident that I can make a straight cut.
Also … and the bigger question … does anyone here have experience with the 3t’s star nut arrangement? I expected that it would use some sort of compression device, but apparently there’s an insert that you glue into the fork and the star-fangled nut is embedded in the insert. Has anyone done this? Is it rocket science or should I go ahead and have at it. (I presume this thing is going to arrive with some instructions.)
I would reccomend a saw guide. Your LBS should be able to loan it to you or make the cut for cheap. You need to be careful at the end of the cut that the carbon does not snap off and rip down the steer tube, I have seen it happen to several forks and it ruins the integrity of the steer tube. When you are making the cut use at least a 32 tooth blade and when you get to the end of the cut let the blade to the cutting, do not apply ANY pressure. That should avoid the rip. Also, if you wrap the steer tube with packing tape (one layer) tightly around the cut area before you cut that should help avoid riping out at the end.
I have no experience with the sleeves, but just be sure it goes below the headset when you insert it, you don’t want the sleeve to end above the headset, leaving a potential weak spot in the steer tube at a high stress point.
I’ve managed to score a 3T Funda fork which I’ll be fitting as an after-market item on a P3C. I’ve cut plenty of carbon aerobars, but never a fork. Is this difficult for any reason? I’ll be able to measure off of the fork I’m removing and I’m pretty confident that I can make a straight cut.
Also … and the bigger question … does anyone here have experience with the 3t’s star nut arrangement? I expected that it would use some sort of compression device, but apparently there’s an insert that you glue into the fork and the star-fangled nut is embedded in the insert. Has anyone done this? Is it rocket science or should I go ahead and have at it. (I presume this thing is going to arrive with some instructions.)
Thanks for any words of wisdom and experience.
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I thought I’d heard you can skip the sleeve gluing if you just using a compression plug…I think I’d go that route if that’s true.
I just rolled a crapload of masking tape maybe 1/4" deep 1-2mm apart on either side of the cut line to form a channel as a low-tech cutting guide. A tight tape wrap would also possibly help against splintering the last layer of CF as you exit the cut, but this shouldn’t be an issue if you use the right blade…
went to the hardware store and got a composite “blade” for my generic hacksaw frame. It’s actually a thin rod that’s coated with some sort of grit rather than a conventional blade w/ teeth. It’s almost more like a coarse sanding surface, only very narrow.
The epoxy insert works just fine, simply followed the instructions. I also have a Reynolds fork on another bike an it came with a compression plug which works fine, too, so you can go either way. I saw no need to buy yet another doo-dad for the Funda beyond what it came with, though.
Thinking purely on strength, I would follow the instructions and use the insert. Like a True Temper fork it was designed for use with the insert and I would not want to find out the painful way if it was really a mistake. I will be receiving a new Cervelo S2 in about 10 weeks and it will come with the Funda fork and without question I will use the insert. Look at it this way, you have nothing to lose by bonding it in. If anything it will be reinforced in this area. A compression plug does little if anything at all to actually strengthen the tube at that point. It is really only there to adjust bearing preload and possibly helps to prevent the stem clamp from crushing the steerer tube.
Pretty much +1 on TriUno83. Masking tape keeps the carbon from fraying. Get a new hacksaw blade. Even a 36(2?) tooth blade will work fine. You just don’t want to use a 24 or lower. Cut halfway thru, rotate 90 degrees and finish the cut.
You don’t have to use the insert. It’s an anti-crush insert, not a structural member. I’ve got a couple of links to approved plugs if you need them. That said, I glued mine since I hate plugs. I find they loosen and they’re pretty heavy. Mix that stuff quickly and apply it quickly. It sets pretty quickly. Then do not touch the fork. I messed up a job a few years ago checking to see if it was dry. It wasn’t No worries, just had to glue it again.
Definitely get a saw guide at your shop. They’re just too easy to use and make a perfectly straight cut, and they take some of the bending force off the fork.
I just installed my 3T Funda fork on the weekend myself.
What others have already mentioned worked very well for me.
1 - I taped the area to be cut and I knew that the steerer had to be cut to 210mm long so it was easy enought to figure that out and mark it.
2 - I own a Park cutting guide which is just perfect to have if you are cutting steerers, aerobar extensions or handlebars. I also use a 36t blade and cut on a 45 degree angle and rotate like the suggest in the instructions.
3 - I did not install the sleeve with the starnut as it is just not needed and a compression device will do the job just as good and you do not have to fart around with the glue/epoxy. Just cut, install, tighten the compressor to preload the headset, tighten the stem and done.
For a reference, the sleeve with nut is 37g, a FSA compression device is 38g, a Tune Gum Gum with carbon cap and aluminum bolt is 13g. So you can get a compression device at the same weight or a third of the weight which will work fine. The reason I did not go with the insert is that I just never know when I will sell the bike and the next person buying it might not want the stem at that height and it is a bugger to fart around with the sleeve.
I personally like my FSA compression device which has always worked amazingly well and provides the support needed (if needed at all). The thing is, if you use the compression device to preload the headset and you torque the stem to the correct torque specs of around 5nm and use a good carbon paste, there is no need for the support on the inside of the steerer. The only reason they suggest this is that most people do not have a good torque wrench or even use one so they give you this sleeve to prevent you from screwing it up. If the steerer cracks with 5nm of force while I am tightening down the stem, then I do not want to ride the fork anyways as it is just not strong enough. I always set up everything with my FSA compression device to preload the headset, tighten down the stem to the proper torque specs also using the carbon paste, remove the FSA and put in my Tune Gum Gum just to have something there just in case and a bit of support (if needed at all).
I have ridden lots of my builds without the compression device in there at all and just a carbon top cap held on with just a touch of glue. It was more than fine with 1000’s of km’s on this set up.
Why don’t people ever recommend a tube cutter instead of a hacksaw and saw guide? It’s cheaper and as far as I know it should make a clean cut. Or am I wrong?
I used my tube cutter to cut my hub in half. It was a failed attempt to put spinners on my commuter bike in college. I may have to try that again, I think I may have it figured out now…are spinners still cool?
definitely get the park steerer tube guide- or one of the ‘generic’ versions.
If you are going to use a star nut- get a star nut punch- which puts the nut a bit down the al steer insert.
since the steerer is extremely long- practice cutting (with park tool guide) a length that is way too long- always good to do a practice cut.
wrapping the tube with 1 or 2 layers of masking tape- prior to cutting is helpful- and to avoid the carbon ‘rip-out’- cut 2/3 of the way through, and rotate the fork steerer- so the final cut is more of a side cut versus bottom cut… practice this technique- it works like a charm!
this article inspired me- and i’ve had 2 bike shops- that were highly recomended- do a job not nearly as good as I do. no one will love your bike more than you!
I just installed my 3T Funda fork on the weekend myself.
The reason I did not go with the insert is that I just never know when I will sell the bike and the next person buying it might not want the stem at that height and it is a bugger to fart around with the sleeve.
I have two questions… Can you safely remove the aluminum sleeve later? I told my son to tell the mechanic to cut the steerer tube a little too long and later when he comes for vacation we would cut the steerer precisely fit, but I never imagined that they were going to glue an aluminum sleeve. Now his bars are too high or two spacers will be on top.
The mechanic that glued the sleeve to my son’s bike left some of the aluminum insert out of the steering tube. Should he cut that excess off? Sergio had a problem recently with his former bike and he just phoned me telling me that his bars were not turning freele on his new bike. I am trying to find out what is happening. I am pretty sure the Mexican mecanic did not read the instructions in English. Maybe it is a headset problem. Not good to be still awake with a hard mountain stage tomorrow. He has a great team of coaches and tech staff behind him but the team mechanics are below mediocre. Not good to find out that you have a problem with your bike a few hours before an important race. I hope they are able to fix that tomorrow in the morning.
No worries, just had to glue it again.
which will work fine. The reason I did not go with the insert is that I just never know when I will sell the bike and the next person buying it might not want the stem at that height and it is a bugger to fart around with the sleeve.