On noting differences in how my race and training rear wheels sit in my frame, and noting that some other people seem to have similar issues, I have a question.
Is there a standard spacing between the rear drop outs?
and
How much consistency have people noted between brands, model and/or frames from the same source?
Any measurement stats on this?
This is one of my only pet peeves with the P3C. I HATE having to tweak the horizontal dropout for different wheelsets. I know this is something they fixed with the P4 via an inset turn knob which means you can adjust them without taking the wheel off.
Rear dropouts should be exactly 130mm apart, square to and equi-distant from the centerline of the bike.
If not, your frame is not built or aligned correctly.
If you are curious about chain stay length, there is no standard. The position of the rear wheel with regards to the seat tube or an aero cutout is up to the manufacturer.
Ok, that is more confirmation of the problem.
I guess it could also be inconsistency between wheel manufacturers. I assume that the old threaded axles are a standard length but what about the placement of the cone nuts on the axle?
and what about the newer type of hex-key hubs? It doesn’t look like there is much room for variation here:
This is one of my only pet peeves with the P3C. I HATE having to tweak the horizontal dropout for different wheelsets. I know this is something they fixed with the P4 via an inset turn knob which means you can adjust them without taking the wheel off.
Are you having to tweak to adjust the cutout gap or are different wheels sitting off center at the brakes or chain stays?
You generally shouldn’t have the adjust the micro adjusters with correctly dished rear wheels running the same tires.
This is one of my only pet peeves with the P3C. I HATE having to tweak the horizontal dropout for different wheelsets.
Remove and throw away the little set-screws, get yourself a good QR skewer, and boom: problem solved. 
For the cut out gap:
Easton Vista (largest) - Very small gap that rubs if I use same screw adjustment for below Velocity Wheel)
Velocity Deep-V (medium) - Just a smidge smaller than the Visats. If I adjust to perfect for the Velocity, then the Vista rub.
Spinergy Rev-X (smallest) - Smaller then Velocity, decent gap if I use same setting as the Velocity and huge if I use the Vista.
Hed Standard Disc: Unknown, just got it in the mail this week But planning on trying it out tomorrow w/Pro3s
All are using either Pro2 or Pro3s. Could there be a significant difference in the height of tires between the Pro2s and Pro3s? Come to think of it, the only set with Pro2s are the Vista wheelset.
How does that solve the problem?
you then have to be able to hold the wheel perfectly centered while you tighten the skewer!
This is one of my only pet peeves with the P3C. I HATE having to tweak the horizontal dropout for different wheelsets.
Remove and throw away the little set-screws, get yourself a good QR skewer, and boom: problem solved.
How does that solve the problem?
By forcing you to learn how to properly install a rear wheel.
you then have to be able to hold the wheel perfectly centered while you tighten the skewer!
Trust me, it ain’t that hard…
Not the seat tube gap.
this distance:
If the cone nuts are not set properly one say will flex and result in an off axis wheel.
The micro adjusters can compensate for this somewhat. but that is fixing the symptom of the problem.
Oh, well now you’re changing the game. That looks like a mountain bike frame. Rear dropout there should be 135mm. Same goes for sqare to and equal distance from the centerline.
You can put a 130mm rear hub in there, but as you have found, they may not align well as the extra 5mm has to come from somewhere.
The OLD (over locknut dimension) of well engineered hubs from Campy, Shimano, etc… will be designed to be within a mm or so of the 130mm or 135mm distance. There isn’t enough adjustment even in loose balls to move the OLD more than a mm. If it’s off by more than that, somebody has left out shims or spacers that were supposed to be there.
Not the seat tube gap.
this distance:
If the cone nuts are not set properly one say will flex and result in an off axis wheel.
The micro adjusters can compensate for this somewhat. but that is fixing the symptom of the problem.
Yes, there is a standard of exactly 130 millimeters. (inside to inside). Have you measured this on your frame with a micrometer?
And those type of dropouts pictured don’t use set screws…and if I understand your question correctly set screws have nothing to do with your spacing issue.
If you have any vintage wheelsets, the standard used to be 126mm and those may have fit issues in a newer frame. (or is your frame vintage and your wheels not?)
It depends on the age of your frame and it’s initial use. Today Road bikes are almost all 130mm. MTB spacing is 135mm (today). Back in the 80’s the typical MTB spacing was 126mm. Some track bikes have 128mm spacing as well.
Dave
Yes, there is a standard of exactly 130 millimeters (1). (inside to inside). Have you measured this on your frame with a micrometer?
And those type of dropouts pictured don’t use set screws…and if I understand your question correctly set screws have nothing to do with your spacing issue.
Right
If you have any vintage wheelsets, the standard used to be 126mm and those may have fit issues in a newer frame. (or is your frame vintage and your wheels not?)
Thanks,
That is part 1 what i was trying to find out.
The second was have people measured frames wheels to check accuracy.
(for clarity not my frame and I don’t have adjusters on my dropouts).
'08 frame that I have not used calipers/micrometer to measure.
Just thought of doing so today.
I have the newer set of hubs shown above and an older (~3 years?) set of HEDs. The HED may be less than the 130.
I need to check both wheels and then I suppose the frame too.