I just purchased a new Diamondback Podium 7 road frame and ultegra di2. When I bought the frame I saw it was di2 compatible so I figured it was eligible for internal routing. When I got the bike, yes it is designed for internal routing but for only mechanical. Di2 compatible just means externally (technically every bike in the world can be di2 compatible based on that). My question is does anyone have any experience routing di2 internally themselves? Is it worth attempting to make holes in a carbon frame if so how do you go about doing it? Is there a way to allow the e tube wires to insert into the openings for the mechanical wiring so it’s at least partially internal through the down tube of the bike? Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated. Trying to clean up the look of the bike and keep the wires organized neatly. Thanks!
Calfree will do it for you
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Just cut the wires and run the wire though where the cable housing is supposed to go then re attach.
How do you go about re-attaching the wire and make it functional?
I recently fitted Di2 to my Chinarello, which involved making a few more holes than I originally anticipated. The wires themselves are too thick to go through normal internal cable routes even if you do chop the end off and re-solder afterwards, so forget about that idea. I drilled a small hole in the top-tube fairly close to where the rear brake cable disappears into the frame which meant that I could route the Di2 wire neatly alongside the brake cable outer from bars to frame. Unfortunately on my frame the bottom bracket shell was a tube without any cut-outs so I needed to create an access port to insert the junction box. I drilled another couple of holes for the front mech and the battery, and used proper Shimano grommets to protect the wire at each point. I was planning on taking the rear-mech cable along the inside of the chain-stay, however that wasn’t possible as they weren’t hollow at the point where the stay joins the bottom bracket shell area. Quite possibly because my frame is a cheap Chinese knock-off, but you may wish to check the status of your frame internals. Therefore the rear-mech cable exits the frame at the bottom of the down-tube and is stuck to the underside of the chain-stay.
I hope this helps.
I can take some photos if you like to illustrate.
Cheers, Rich
Cervelo has a guide for drilling a S2/S3 frame for internal Di2 routing: http://www.cervelo.com/media/docs/S3-S2-Di2-installation-guide-bbeedde9-7885-4006-a35b-ae536c326ddf-0.pdf
You might find it has some helpful tips.
Have you or do you know anyone who has soldered e-tube di2 wires before? How hard is it to do with the new cables? What materials are needed/best for the job?
Installed DI2 internally on my Transition. Cables needed to be spliced, but were easy to solder with some patience. Was also able to eliminate the internal junction box by soldering wires together.
I posted a video, which will show the wires inside the housing.
On my TT bike I didn’t want to spend loads of money on Shimano cables, so replaced most of them with servo cables instead and made my own junction box. You can see the pics from my installation here.
Soldering the cables is pretty easy too.
Cheers, Rich
I have a gen 1 Cervelo R5ca that I fitted Di2 to. I had to drill a hole in the side of the down tube near the head tube for the cable from Junction B, then another through the bottom bracket and up into the seat tube (sealed end near the BB), which ran alongside the BB. The original R5ca uses direct fit bearings which are pressed into the carbon without the use of any cups and the BB area is moulded carbon with no access into the tubes. I had to open up two of the holes that were already in the BB, one is meant for the mechanical wire and I think the second must have been for drainage?? All holes will need to be 6mm to get the connectors through, luckily the round Shimano rubber grommets are 6mm too. I used an external junction box at the base of the BB and an internal battery in the seat post. The only cable I ran on the outside was to the rear mech which I ran along the bottom of the chain stay and covered with matt black foil tape (the frame is matt black too). It looks quite neat and tidy and have had no issues so far. I did cover the frame with green ‘Frog Tape’ prior to drilling and worked up from a 2mm drill bit, enlarging the holes gradually. I had no issues with the paint chipping.
I did buy the frame off Ebay so it was no longer under warranty, so I figured I had nothing to lose except the greatly reduced price if it all went tits up. I am happy with the results and now drill carbon parts without a great deal of worry. I recently drilled my Enve SES aero bars for my Di2 Shimano brake lever shifter cables.
Hope this helps