I have a 2021 Specialized Tarmac sl7 Expert. It comes standard with the R8000 Ultegra di2 system. Shifter is Ultegra di2 disc R8070 on road bar.
I want to add TT bar end shifters to a Redshift quick release TT bar setup that I added recently (awesome system btw).
Think that all is needed is the
SW-R9160 TT/Tri bar end shifter set
2 x DI2 E-Tube wire of appropriate length.
Then all that is needed is to connect wiring to shifters, feed through aerobar extensions, mount the shifters, then creatively work the wire over to the integrated shifter/brake levers. At this point they will just click connect to the OE shifters and that’s it. Kind of like the blip shifters on SRAM Red.
Or is it more complicated? Do I need to connect a laptop to the junction box (in the seatpost) and program the new buttons. Initially, I will just run wire body outside of the handlebars and zip tie just for proof of concept. I like the idea of being able to remove the TT bars when going on a group ride so don’t want to overly complicate the install, BUT
I could possibly run a short wire under the bar tape and leave it plugged near the stem when not in use, then connect to the wire off the aerobar when needed. Might seem silly to go to these lengths when I can just reach over and shift, but hey it’s all silly in the long run, and I ride this bike a lot on flatter roads alone where it’s nice to pick up free speed.
Clever idea. I can’t help with the wiring questions, but I suspect you’ll have to connect your system and update the firmware. If the components are on different firmware versions, my understanding is that they won’t communicate.
Also consider adding the wireless piece that will allow connection by bluetooth. You can connect via your phone to update the firmware and also connect the Di2 to your Garmin bike computer. The bike computer will then beep at you before changing the front chain ring (assuming you’re using synchro shift) and you can cycle through the computer screens using buttons on top of your hoods.
You need to think through the routing. All depends on which junction-A you are using and its placement relative to the shifters. Unlike 8050 shifters (rim brake), the 8070 shifters has only two e-tube ports per shifter. At least one on each is plugged in. You may have open ports on each, but if the shifters are connected across the handlebar, your proposed set-up won’t work.
Do you have a junction of any kind where the Di2 wires exit the handlebars and enter the frame? This could be a Junction A, Junction B, or a WU111 wireless unit. If so, then I would tap into the wiring there. I would add a Junctuon B and another 150mm Di2 cable to your temporary extensions. Then you could quickly disconnect and reconnect the whole setup from the bike without any other wiring changes.
Kind of what I was afraid of finding. Will have to rip it apart to make this work. The Control/Charge box is built into the seatpost which has a single power wire coming from it. Not sure where the battery or junction box is as per how it was built. Right brake/shifter has 2 wires connected to it with a third spot plugged. Left side has one wire connected to it with a second spot plugged. So one free spot on each side. Not having programmed these before, could I run a single wire to the setup referenced above from each aerobar shifter and then run a single wire to either brake/shifter? Does the wiring communicate for 4 different functions or only 2? RE: is the right shifter for the rear derailleur using 2 separate wires to communicate an up shift from a down shift or does this info travel over a single wire but at different resistance levels? (Guessing it’s 2 wires per shifter for 4 total going to junction box for front and rear derailleur control.
If above wire setup could be used, it would be awesome for quick connect and disconnect. Wow.
Kind of what I was afraid of finding. Will have to rip it apart to make this work. The Control/Charge box is built into the seatpost which has a single power wire coming from it. Not sure where the battery or junction box is as per how it was built. Right brake/shifter has 2 wires connected to it with a third spot plugged. Left side has one wire connected to it with a second spot plugged. So one free spot on each side. Not having programmed these before, could I run a single wire to the setup referenced above from each aerobar shifter and then run a single wire to either brake/shifter? Does the wiring communicate for 4 different functions or only 2? RE: is the right shifter for the rear derailleur using 2 separate wires to communicate an up shift from a down shift or does this info travel over a single wire but at different resistance levels? (Guessing it’s 2 wires per shifter for 4 total going to junction box for front and rear derailleur control.
If above wire setup could be used, it would be awesome for quick connect and disconnect. Wow.
Thanks, Brian
As long as you have the internal charger, you could program it to work any way you see fit (I have one button on the LHS shifter downshifting the RD).
The wires can also be plugged in anywhere you’d like, as long as there’s an open port.
So in your case, one wire from bar-end to one of the integrated shifters, and wire from the other bar-end can go to the other the integrated shifters. Or you can join wires from both bar-ends into a B-junction box (JC-41), and have a third wire from the JC-41 going into either integrated shifter (or somewhere else in the system)
It is too late (or I am too tired) for my brain to process most of the posts in this thread, but I just wanted to add:
If you need more E-Tube ports near the stem / base bar, consider adding one or two SM-JC41 internal Junction B units to the bike.
(hide one in the handlebar/base bar for example).
You can have as many of them as you like, since they’re just 4-way splitters.
Any reason why I cannot customize any of the 3 buttons on either shifter using the latest E-Tube Shimano s/w? Firmware is up to date. The bike is less than 1 month old. All functions are recognized. But, when I attempt to change anything, the lower left Apply Settings button greys out and states “Settings could not be applied.”
I’ve rebooted my Dell computer 3 times now and keep getting the same issue.
It has multishift and synchronized shift as per all of the latest Ultegra di2 bikes.
A couple of things to think about before you start:
are you going to removing/reattaching the clipons on a regular basis, or are they staying on for the long haul? If the former, then ease-of-access of the plug points is an important consideration.
do you want to control front and rear shifting independently, or are you willing to rely on synchroshift? If the latter, you could get away with just a single 2 switch shifter, and a single wire.
I use 2 2-way shifters for manual FD control, plugged into a 5 port A junction nestled in a recess under the stem. Very easy access.
Any reason why I cannot customize any of the 3 buttons on either shifter using the latest E-Tube Shimano s/w? Firmware is up to date. The bike is less than 1 month old. All functions are recognized. But, when I attempt to change anything, the lower left Apply Settings button greys out and states “Settings could not be applied.”
If you’re using E-Tube 4.0.2, be careful.
If the battery icon doesn’t show next to the disconnect button (top left corner) then “something” is wrong.
If you then disconnect the bike it usually does not really disconnect. It won’t respond to shift commands and will drain your battery in a day or so.
When this happens simply reconnect and then disconnect the bike again. It should be all good now.
Also, if the battery icon isn’t there (and a battery is installed…), some functionality will not work correctly.
In your case I would try to connect, check for battery icon and only attempt to change things if it’s there. Alternatively, E-Tube 3.4.5 is pretty much perfect, it just looks a bit dated.
E-Tube 3.4.5 can still be downloaded on the e-tube project site, so I recommend giving that a go :).
There’s more on E-Tube 4.0.2 bugs / issues on my site (in my signature).
FWIW, I had the battery symbol upper left next to the disconnect button, but it still wouldn’t work. uninstalled V4.0.2 and installed V3.4.5, and it worked great. Honestly couldn’t wrap my head around the di2 setup coming from a Sram etap world. So I’ve basically duplicated it with the X button shifting rear mech out on the right, in on the left, the Y buttons shifting front mech out on the right and in on the left, and the top of the hood shifting rear mech out on the right and in on the left. Will see how it works.
As echappist mentioned, you only need to plug the bar end shifters into the open ports on the brake/shift levers. It’s a really easy install and the most difficult part is likely going to be re-wrapping your bar tape just right;).
Yes, you may have to use your BCR2 charger to plug into e-tap computer software and set up your SW-9160. IIRC, the 9160 bar end shifters are set up to work in ‘synchro-shift mode’. …I should also note that synchro shift is only possible with the new internal battery (the BTDN110).
If you are using another kind of shifting mode (or older battery), you’ll likely have to set the SW-9160 to only control up/downshifts of the rear derailleur.
