hi,
wondering is the ST minds can help with an issue I have with Di2. Everything was working fine until ~2 weeks ago, when a few days after coming back from a race the battery was dead (I had fully charged pre-race). I flew to the race, so wasn’t sure if it was knocked by TSA or the baggage crew.
After charging Di2 it seemed fine until two days later it was drained again. I have replaced the battery with the newer model, replaced what was a wire issue, but still the issue remains. The bike (p5) & Di2 system is ~5 years old. My local bike shop has had the bike 3 times and are at a loss. It does appear to hold a charge for 1 day, then the 2nd day it is fully drained. The Di2 diagnostic indicates everything is ok.
Does anybody have any ideas what may be going on or how to fix? From looking up on the Internet I have read something about the derailleur making minor/micro adjustments that could cause this…maybe it was knocked in transit.
By any chance are you charging it by plugging it into a wall socket? I have learned that the USB wall plugs have 2 different standards for amperage and one of them does not charge di2 properly. You can avoid the issue by plugging into the USB port on your computer.
I had a battery drain overnight twice, I pushed one of the shifter buttons while the bike was on the stand, the derailleur drained the battery overnight trying to make the shift, I charged the following day and it drained again. It wasn’t until the second day when I realized my mistake. It may be a long shot, but perhaps one of the derailleurs is knocked off alignment enough to cause this? Have you tried adjusting them?
when the issue first happened I was using the lithium charger and battery. The one where it needed to be removed from the frame and charged in the unit.
In the last couple of days I have the new battery type with the USB charger and using a USB charging station. It is the same result…the battery works fine after disconnecting , it just gradually drains …
Is everything’s firmware up to date? I can’t imagine that would make a difference, but easy enough and good practice.
Now, since it drains within a day, disconnect a few things and see where it sits in a day or two. You can easily unplug your front and rear derailleurs, so start with them. Can you access your A-junction? If so, pop out the shifter wires from them next. Keep going till you find the (hopefully only) bad component.
I had a wonky A junction that would drain in about 3-4 days. The only way to test that was a swap out, but it was indeed the culprit.
Yes the most likely cause based on your description is a stuck button. Try un plugging FD cable and leaving it sit , then try the RD, then try the right shifter , then the left. One of those steps I would guess will result in a none drained battery. Do you have a way of checking the state of charge of the battery or do just know when it’s dead ?
When I bought a 110 battery to replace the btr2 this year, it wouldn’t be hold a charge for 48 hours. It was swapped for a replacement 110 and has been flawless ever since.
I doubt it’s often, but it is possible for a brand new 110 battery to not be able to hold a charge. How long was yours working before your race?
hi,
wondering is the ST minds can help with an issue I have with Di2. Everything was working fine until ~2 weeks ago, when a few days after coming back from a race the battery was dead (I had fully charged pre-race). I flew to the race, so wasn’t sure if it was knocked by TSA or the baggage crew.
After charging Di2 it seemed fine until two days later it was drained again. I have replaced the battery with the newer model, replaced what was a wire issue, but still the issue remains. The bike (p5) & Di2 system is ~5 years old. My local bike shop has had the bike 3 times and are at a loss. It does appear to hold a charge for 1 day, then the 2nd day it is fully drained. The Di2 diagnostic indicates everything is ok.
Does anybody have any ideas what may be going on or how to fix? From looking up on the Internet I have read something about the derailleur making minor/micro adjustments that could cause this…maybe it was knocked in transit.
thxAre you, by chance, leaving the chain in the smallest cog on the cassette?
We’ve seen an issue where leaving the chain on the smallest cog causes some contact between a limit screw on the rear derailleur (I think that’s what it was) and the chain creating a circuit that bleeds the battery. I’m not a mechanic (or an electrical engineer) - very far from it, actually - so I may not be explaining it correctly. But if you’re leaving the chain on the smallest cog after a ride - don’t do that and see if that helps.
I don’t remember seeing it with older di2, but we’ve definitely seen it on multiple occasions with 8050.
The firmware is up to date. Thanks for the suggestion on the disconnecting, I will try that next. I do have access to the junction box (5 port). I should have added that I also have the aerobar shifters.
the old battery was fine thru the race, I had it for 5 years and a lot of miles. Then post race the Di2 stopped working - the battery would drain after a couple of days. After replacing the battery from the old model to the newer one, it is the same issue, drains after a couple of days.
If you’ve checked everything suggested so far, have a look at the A junction - the control box. In nine years of using DI2, I have two of them go bad and prematurely drain the battery. I don’t know why they went rogue but replacing them solved all of my premature battery draining.
Are you, by chance, leaving the chain in the smallest cog on the cassette?
I have had two unexplained Di2 drained batteries, and I had narrowed it down to this. In both cases, I had ridden outside and put the bike back on the trainer, with the chain in the smallest cog. The battery was dead the next day.
I do not know cause. My theory is that reinstalling the bike on the trainer left the chain slightly misaligned with the RD’s desired position. So, the RD stayed on, trying to move the chain a teensy bit. Now, I run the chain up and down a couple gears to put it in a middle gear after changing a wheel or putting it back on the direct drive trainer.
hi,
wondering is the ST minds can help with an issue I have with Di2. Everything was working fine until ~2 weeks ago, when a few days after coming back from a race the battery was dead (I had fully charged pre-race). I flew to the race, so wasn’t sure if it was knocked by TSA or the baggage crew.
After charging Di2 it seemed fine until two days later it was drained again. I have replaced the battery with the newer model, replaced what was a wire issue, but still the issue remains. The bike (p5) & Di2 system is ~5 years old. My local bike shop has had the bike 3 times and are at a loss. It does appear to hold a charge for 1 day, then the 2nd day it is fully drained. The Di2 diagnostic indicates everything is ok.
Does anybody have any ideas what may be going on or how to fix? From looking up on the Internet I have read something about the derailleur making minor/micro adjustments that could cause this…maybe it was knocked in transit.
thxAre you, by chance, leaving the chain in the smallest cog on the cassette?
We’ve seen an issue where leaving the chain on the smallest cog causes some contact between a limit screw on the rear derailleur (I think that’s what it was) and the chain creating a circuit that bleeds the battery. I’m not a mechanic (or an electrical engineer) - very far from it, actually - so I may not be explaining it correctly. But if you’re leaving the chain on the smallest cog after a ride - don’t do that and see if that helps.
I don’t remember seeing it with older di2, but we’ve definitely seen it on multiple occasions with 8050.
I’ve seen this exact issue with 9070. Need to make sure there is a visible gap between the limit screws and RD when in the smallest/largest cog.
Edit: For Di2, I set my limit screws way out so there’s no doubt they are never touching. I’m surprised more people don’t do this and even more surprised Di2 still has limit screws… there’s really no need for them.
