I’ve heard of guys using Dap Weldwood Contact Cement to glue tubbies. Curious what everyone’s experience has been, especially with carbon rims.
Why would you use anything but Mastik 1?
Because the wheels I bought already had Conti glue on them and I didn’t feel like stripping it all off.
When it comes to glue, either go Vittoria or Conti. Don’t tape. Do it right and you’ll be able to trust it.
There is no way I would use any glue that wasn’t specifically designed for tubulars. There is no way of knowing if a construction adhesive will bond well to a rim and how it holds up under heat (braking). I use mastik 1. For your own safety use a proper tubular glue.
There is no way I would use any glue that wasn’t specifically designed for tubulars. There is no way of knowing if a construction adhesive will bond well to a rim and how it holds up under heat (braking). I use mastik 1. For your own safety use a proper tubular glue.
Well, for decades, one of the best glues was 3M Fastack, which was an automotive trim adhesive.
That said, I have never once heard of using Dap Weldwood for a tubular glue. I wouldn’t risk it, that’s for sure. Agreed on using mastik.
There is no way I would use any glue that wasn’t specifically designed for tubulars. There is no way of knowing if a construction adhesive will bond well to a rim and how it holds up under heat (braking). I use mastik 1. For your own safety use a proper tubular glue.
What is your point in directing this at me? Continental has been making tubular glue for decades and Vittoria IS Mastik.
I was replying to the OP, just happened to hit reply to your post, no offence intended!
Jantex tape is absolutely bullet proof. You need to have proper/decent handling, clean surfaces with alcohol. I use water to de-tack, then mount the tire, align, pump to pressure, ride in the morning.
There is no way I would use any glue that wasn’t specifically designed for tubulars. There is no way of knowing if a construction adhesive will bond well to a rim and how it holds up under heat (braking). Sure there is - you can ask around and if a number of people have used the product in tough conditions with good results, then you know. Which, I assume, is why the OP was asking.
In this case, I think the answer is going to be “No, people haven’t.”
I’ll add that I, and many people, used 3M Fastack automotive adhesive for tubulars back in the day. It worked well.
There is no way I would use any glue that wasn’t specifically designed for tubulars. There is no way of knowing if a construction adhesive will bond well to a rim and how it holds up under heat (braking). I use mastik 1. For your own safety use a proper tubular glue.
Well, for decades, one of the best glues was 3M Fastack, which was an automotive trim adhesive.
That said, I have never once heard of using Dap Weldwood for a tubular glue. I wouldn’t risk it, that’s for sure. Agreed on using mastik.
Ya Fastack was great because you could glue a tire and use it in an hour. Of course we didn’t know squat about Crr and glue 20 years ago. I also heard that Fastack could break down the glue between the rimstrip and the tire (the strip that covers the sewing). If you got too carried away with the Fastack the tire could separate from the rimstrip. I would stick to Mastik if I were you. You could end up with a slow and dangerous tire using something else.
That was always the myth about Fastack, but I never saw it happen and it never happened to me (and I used it a lot). And my tires lasted multiple seasons usually.
From what I have heard though, they changed the formula a few years ago due to VOC regulations. New formula should not be used for tubulars apparently.
*edit - typos
Jantex tape is absolutely bullet proof.
Not for cyclocross!
I’ve been using weldwood for 15 years for road and cross. I learned it from an elite track racer. I can’t comment on crr, but I’ve never had had a tire come off unless I wanted it to. Even at 25 psi in shitty wet mud.
The downside is that when I remove a tire, I often lose the base tape.
Scott
I’ve been using weldwood for 15 years for road and cross. I learned it from an elite track racer. I can’t comment on crr, but I’ve never had had a tire come off unless I wanted it to. Even at 25 psi in shitty wet mud.
The downside is that when I remove a tire, I often lose the base tape.
Scott
When you remove a tire, does the glue seem to be dry and crusty or somewhat pliable?
It is still somewhat pliable, even after a year or 2.
I use at least 5 coats.
Scott
It is still somewhat pliable, even after a year or 2.
I use at least 5 coats.
Scott
Thanks! that doesn’t bode well for Crr, but I have couple tires around with which I could experiment. I always wondered how this stuff work work.
I have used Weldwood for around 25 years now. In Arizona, we didnt use any glue that didnt firm up well. In really hot conditions Mastik, Clement and similar glues didn’t hold very well, saw many a rolled tubular due to those glues here. Weldwood would be more secure in that extreme heat, and not be affected by braking heat. Used on aluminum and carbon wheels with zero issues. Have tires glued for 2 years and no issues there either, still somewhat pliable. Would always apply at least 2 coats to the rim and tire and let dry, then go to tack coat and install.
I have used Weldwood for around 25 years now. In Arizona, we didnt use any glue that didnt firm up well. In really hot conditions Mastik, Clement and similar glues didn’t hold very well, saw many a rolled tubular due to those glues here. Weldwood would be more secure in that extreme heat, and not be affected by braking heat. Used on aluminum and carbon wheels with zero issues. Have tires glued for 2 years and no issues there either, still somewhat pliable. Would always apply at least 2 coats to the rim and tire and let dry, then go to tack coat and install.
Are you doing a full 24hrs between coats? Also how spotless are you getting the rims before glueing?
Living in a very dry climate changes things. Sometimes 24 hours is not necessary, and 12 hours works. After a coat, checking for tackiness, when the base coats had reasonable dryness, where it would feel like duct tape adhesion, I would go to the next coat. Sometimes you could hit the tire twice in the time that you were waiting for the rim to set up (especially on Continental, they soaked in glue easily, Vittoria was slower). So if I was doing a Sprinter tire, I would hit the tire first, then rim, then back to tire so I could get build up faster. But for dryness, I would always aim for that duct tape feel, if it got to that point, it was time for another coat. 3 coats base on a tire, and the same on a rim to that tackiness. Then fresh coats to assemble which could mean 4-5 thin layers at installation.
If I was starting with fresh rims, I would sandpaper or wire brush the rims to scuff them in and give better adhesion. If tires were glued on previously, I would look to see how much glue remained, and how dry it was. If it was pretty old, I would wire brush to remove old glue. I would then lay down several layers at the valve hole (always made clicking noises) and then start my base coats. I would rather have many layers of glue using Weldwood rather than be thin. Weldwood has a lot of solvent in it, so somewhat fresh glue can be renewed and softened for adherence with new glue being applied.
Once I installed the tire, I would look to see how much adhesion was there by trying to peel the tire slightly. I wanted to see very stringy glue the full 360. If I had areas that were nominal, I would add glue in there while things were setting up.
Normally if I had to remove a tire after this method, the base tape would separate from the tire. I knew my glue job was good then. Also, if I was removing a tire at this point, it was toast anyways, so the base tape coming loose didnt matter.
Thanks! I’m going to try it out. The reason I wanted to try this stuff is I race extremely often and it always seems like whenever I need to glue tubulars I’m out of Mastick. I live a block away from Home Depot so this should be rather convenient.