I’ve looked at a lot of products for insoles/orthotics/customthings for cycling shoes recommended by different people here…can someone who is in the know comment on the difference between the $39.99 heat moldable orthotic here:
And a $250 custom ‘esole’? Is there really $210 dollars of extra value there? Has anyone has problems that were not solved by the cheaper insoles? Seems like margin-mania to me.
It depends on what pathology is being treated. What are you trying to accomplish with said orthotic? Do you have any significant biomechanical issues (i.e. posterior tibial tendon dysfunction?)
I got the heat molded ones, but they’re a bit thick. They have a guarantee that if you don’t like them you can return them after you use them within 90 days or something like that. I haven’t tried esoles mostly because there is no place really close and I don’t want to pay for it. My health insurance will pay for custom orthotics from a doctor dunno if I want to jump through the hoops of esoles.
My guess is the difference is that esoles scans your foot to fit you exaclty where these things go in the oven and while they do a good job of molding to your foot I don’t think they fit as well. My guess is that esoles are also thinner to fit into your shoes a lot better then the heat molded ones fit into mine.
Is an orthotic supposed to support your foot the way your foot is, or the way your foot should be? Seems like the do-it-yourself types are the former, whereas an orthotic made by an podiatrist would be the latter. Would the uber-expensive esole do the former or the latter? Sorry that doesn’t actually address your question.
I have ‘hotspots’ on the front of my feet, leading to numbness. It feels like only a few points, mainly the balls of my feet I think, are what’s pushing down on the pedal. It happens mainly when sprinting or prolonged hard efforts.
Other than that, I’ve never (knock on wood) had any problems whatsoever.
then in your case, go with the cheaper ones and move your cleats all the way back if you haven’t. Forefoot hot spots (along with lateral foot pain) are the most cycling foot issues, and neither usually needs a custom orthotic.
Hotspots… This is probably obvious and you may have already addressed it but you might want to make sure that your shoe is tight enough and the right size. I was getting hotspots in the same place awhile back and followed rroofs advice about tightening my shoe correctly. It helped but every now and then it would come back. I realized that I was in a shoe one size too big and since getting a new shoe that fits like a glove I have not had any problems whatsoever. Incidentally, I wear orthodics but that wasn’t helping with the hot spots since I was in a shoe slightly too big.
ESoles and the hat molded items are two completely different products. For esoles:
Foot is scanned in neutral / anatomical position … not heat molded when the foot has already collapsed into a compensated position
A good esoles technician will closely screen you and your foot to discuss areas like hot spots / numb feet / valgus-varus adjustment etc. and make corrections to the insole based on this screening
The technician will also measure your arches (anatomical and compensated for esoles to evaluate)
The biggest thing our customers (www.ariavelo.com) with hotspots / numb feet are finding is that the insoles with the correct “met pad” have helped them tremendously.
Your cleats should be adjusted for biomechanics not for hot spots etc. If you have carbon soled shoes the cleats aren’t going to be THE cause of a hot spot / numb feet BUT a good fit, a well fit shoe with a well constructed esole will help significantly.
Each esole is not only designed just around your anatomical foot BUT also around the last of the EXACT cycling shoe you are wearing … an insole for a side will be different than an insole with specialized
Sometimes the over the counter insoles work just fine for folks. I use an over counter model for my running shoes and don’t use the esoles for my running. BUT the cycling insoles are well worth the investment as they will last 25,000-30,000 miles!