Cycling In Cuba (With An Update & Some Pics)

Looks like our semi-annual late winter, early spring cycling retreat to Tucson is off. I could go on and on a bit here as to why - but it would really be content more suited to the Lavender Room! :slight_smile:

We found a group of some reasonably serious cyclists from our area, who are headed to Cuba. We (me & MissP) just booked in for a week in Mid-April

Never been to Cuba and obviously never been cycling in Cuba. However, I’ve had several people who are all accomplished cyclists, say the riding in Cuba is great. We’re always game for something new, and are looking forward to this.

Looking for some info from the good folks of the Slowtwitch Forum.

I have no travel advice, but I remember reading about this a while back. Do you have any old bike parts you could donate?

http://www.bikesforcuba.com/About_Us.html

Strange you should mention this charity.

I met the principal of it several years ago at a cycling social. I sent him a couple of eMails asking how I can get more involved (and that we had a bunch of stuff to donate), but I never heard back from him!

Where are you going in Cuba?

I have been cycling in Cuba 8 times
since 2010…

4 x Varadero
3 x Holguin
1 x Cienfuegos

Let me know exactly what kind of
information you are looking for?

I found cycling in Cuba great. Very accommodating motorists. Low traffic roads.

I would only caution you that (and this more how dumb I am than anything else) they don’t throw up road signs like we do in North America, so it’s easy to get lost and take a 70km wrong turn.

Dang! That’s too bad. The website is weak, but I read an article on these people a couple of years ago. Maybe they ran out of steam. Enjoy the trip. I know some family and friends have been there, and they liked it.

Funny you should mention the lack of signs. In the entire 1/2 Iron Triathlon I participated in last week, there were NO signs on the bike course.

On the good side, there were plentiful government workers on course so that they weren’t needed. When a car accidentally got on the course, police got the car off course with 2 minutes.

The other noticeable difference between US cycling and Cuban cycling is the road surface quality. Pot holes big enough to swallow a Volkswagen were common. Missing manhole covers were disconcerting to me, but like the pot holes, should be easy to miss on a bike.

As was already mentioned, Cuba is bike friendly because so few people have cars. And the cars there look like a rolling car museum.

I’ve got a mate who runs cycling holidays and does one to Cuba. https://www.rideholidays.co.nz/Site/cycle-tours/cuba-tour/default.aspx
May give you some idea.

A bunch of my friends have gone the last two years. Great place to ride a bike. I can pretty much guarantee you won’t have some a-hole “rolling coal” on you.

Road surface is so-so, so don’t take anything too flimsy. Have a good time.

A bunch of my friends have gone the last two years. Great place to ride a bike. I can pretty much guarantee you won’t have some a-hole “rolling coal” on you

Thanks.

We are going with a group of strong riders/races from the Toronto area. They have been organizing this same trip for a few years now, so, we figure they know the routes and have the bugs all worked out.

Just looking to put in 3 hrs or so of steady riding each day at a easy to moderate pace.

I’ll be sitting on wheels for much of it! :slight_smile:

I’ve heard from others that the weather is typically very nice. The locals friendly. The roads do have light traffic. With regards to the pavement quality - Tucson has been our typical spring/winter escape and down there, the pavement quality ranges from great to awful. I’ve heard the same for Cuba - so it will be no surprise.

No rolling coal eh?

Because the cars are so modern? Because they need to save gas? Or because they don’t know about it yet?

I remember very smelly cars, very noisy too (loud engines and mufflers and constant honking in Varadero and La Havana) but as it has been mentioned here rather courteous drivers.

You’ll be amazed how few accidents there are out there despite what appears as organized chaos at first.

Pot holes galore and missing signs. But again very friendly locals always willing to help.

Countryside might be tough as I remember gravel roads and very poorly maintained roads. Watch out for animals crossing the roads (horses, cows, dogs…)

It is however a great way to meet people too and refuel in small villages to enjoy the 1$ Pizza slice (get some local money as well if you can and not just some Chavitos) and the all-time favourite super cheap ice cream.

Could be some fun rides out there (bringing spare parts is definitely a good idea.)

One other factor to be prepared for is transporting the bike itself to Cuba. Southwest had an embargo on bike shipping to Cuba, unless it fit into standard-sized luggage. I switched to Spirit instead and still waited for nearly an hour after my clothing bag showed up for my bike. It was amongst the longest hours in recent history for me. Upon returning, the bike did not show up for another day after I returned.

Even though the airport representatives say that they will bring your missing luggage, bike, etc. to you, plan on getting it yourself. Also, there is virtually NO internet. If something gets stuck in Customs, there is also currently no infrastructure to drive the missing item to you because there aren’t available cars to drive.

Download as many apps that offer offline GPS as you can find. Many are missing locations that others may have (two of three I used did NOT have the Hemingway Marina listed, which made finding the swim venue to the triathlon difficult for our driver). Standard addresses seem to not exist; the driver could not find the address listed on AirBnB and we had to finally hand the phone to the driver and call the hostess to guide us in.

Having said all this, if I can have a great experience speaking little Spanish beyond “por favor” and “gracias”, then you should have a blast! Oh, and remember that the money you take is the money you have. Canadians can use their credit / debit cards, but Americans can not at this time.

**One other factor to be prepared for is transporting the bike itself to Cuba. Southwest had an embargo on bike shipping to Cuba, unless it fit into standard-sized luggage. I switched to Spirit instead and still waited for nearly an hour after my clothing bag showed up for my bike. It was amongst the longest hours in recent history for me. Upon returning, the bike did not show up for another day after I returned. **

Good to know.

As I mentioned previously we are going with a group that has organized an annual trip to Cuba to ride for a few years now. They all take their bikes and we’ve not heard of any problems. We travel with our bikes a moderate amount, know the ins-and-outs so are familiar with the occasional hiccup. We are flying with Air Canada - the bike fee is known, and reasonable at $50. Many Canadians like to dump on AC, but I fly with them a modest amount, often with my bike, and I rarely have any issues.

I had guessed that regarding your comment on the internet. We are contemplating completely unplugging for the week - something we do a couple times each year as a matter of course. Consequently, if internet/wifi is available - we’ll look upon that as a bonus.

Having spent whole year traveling in 3rd-world & developing countries back a few years ago, I know that one of the worst things you can do as traveler, is to go to another country with concrete expectations that EVERYTHING will be the same as at home. That set’s you up for challenges and disappointment. Better to go with an open mind and treat the whole thing as an adventure in the truest sense.

**Where are you going in Cuba? **

Staying at the Iberostar Laguna Azul in Varadera.

I assume riding from that location daily.

Make sure it is Varadero and not Varadera.

As soon as you have your luggage and bike, turn left as you exit the airport, go change your money into convertible pesos (CUCs or “Chavitos”). You can get some help but they will expect a “propina” (tip) so make sure to always have some change on you.
Almost parity with Can $ means that you might want to be careful with the amount you tip. (holding the door for you is 25C, carrying your bike might be a bit more)

Your hotel should have a chartered bus and the driver should do it for you. (25-30min ride) Negotiate with the driver to take time to change your money (one can take care of that while the others buy time with the driver).
I was told the change booths inside hotels have a worse exchange rate (not that the “government approved” change booths offer an amazing deal)

The main strip in Varadero is in poor condition (pot holes wise) and side streets can turn into very uneven surfaces (tree roots, pot holes, broken concrete and asphalt pieces)

Make sure to hit Don Alez pizza joint:
https://www.tripadvisor.ca/...s_Province_Cuba.html

I was staying right next to it and enjoyed it a lot (super cheap and delicious)

Watch out for Jiniteros (street vendors/ friendly locals/ conmen at times) selling cheap cigars (they will be cheap in quality quite often).

El Encantado grocery store sells large water bottles (5L) for cheap, practical before and after bike trips or hikes.

As of Feb. 2016, it was still not possible to use Interac nor Credit cards except a small handful or stores.
Cash is king in Cuba.
I would agree that Internet still has a long way to go there. I saw people in la Havana sticking their hands inside windows of buildings offering free Wifi without passwords (or you give a propina to the guard for the password).

I lived internet free for a whole week. Hotels may offer something better though but at a cost.

Have a nice trip.

**Where are you going in Cuba? **

Staying at the Iberostar Laguna Azul in Varadera.

I assume riding from that location daily.

I stayed twice at the Iberostar Laguna Azul nice hotel, you can exchange cdn into cuc at the hotel no need to change at the airport, it takes about 45 minutes
from the airport to the hotel. You can always buy Internet card it use to be very expensive $10 per hour the first years I went to Cuba but not sure last year I was in Holguin
and it was something like an Internet card for 1 hour 2$ very reasonable. Your hotel is far from the Varadero main city, actually you are about 17km from the beggining of Varadero
and there’s no local houses past 3-4km, it’s only hotels.

The roads surface are very good, no major potholes like some are saying! Usually, you will ride with a tailwind every morning, not rare to be sailing 35-40km/h going out at almost
150watts. You will have no choice to be doing the same 17km out and back for most of your rides, because there’s only one major road. Trafic is not an issue only near main city
you barely slow down a bit. Once out of Varadero you have 2 choice Cardenas 30km from your hotel (Left) or Matanzas (right) 50km from your hotel.

Getting to Cardenas there’s more trucks but it’s a two lanes road each side, there’s a tiny bump 2 minutes climb :wink: In Cardenas, it’s chaos you will have everything on the road,
kids, dogs, car, horse, name it… but it’s okay, if you have people to navigate you. I usually get through the city and go to Coliseo (50km), it’s more in the land (hotter).

Going to Matanzas your are riding on the Highway, no worries never had an issue car riding smoothly, and you never feel in danger. It’s a ride a long the shore you will see the
Ocean in some areas, tailwind going most of the days or cross side, so you will be riding into the wind back most of the 50km, no serious hills, one or two climbs that last not
even 4-5 minutes.

You can ride from Varadero to Havane it’s about 155km or 4h-5h… I did it, once took 4h30 (avg 35km) it’s the same road going to Matanzas but you continue… Usually tail wind, we took a taxi on our
way back, we negotiate $80… for 160km! Not very expensive.

You are going to be in a Resort so they speak english.

There’s no bike shop that I know but there’s a cycling club in Matanzas, so you will see some locals cyclists. They might even join you guys on some rides.

There’s buses shuttles that can bring from your hotel to main Varadero for shopping, it’s cheap or you can take a taxi or Coco taxi (yellow moto taxi, where you sit 2 on the back).
Very cool to draft them by the way :wink:

Make sure you don’t have a room near the disco because you might have trouble to sleep, at the front desk ask for a room far the disco :wink: Food is ok.

There’s no gatorade, so bring your own sport drink (powder), be friendly with the maids and ask for extra water bottles. You can fill your bottles at the buffet the morning before riding.
Bananas are no guarantee somedays they have it and other they don’t, so when they have bring a few to your room just in case… :wink:

You can easily do 2 rides a day one early morning and a little ride at 4-5pm spinning 30km on the same road you will be doing every day. Passing your hotel, the road continues for
another 3km until the marina, it’s quiet and a dead-end.

Cuba is very safe, I went always with my ex-wife alone in the fields very far from main city where they only speak Spanish I never felt in danger.

Be self supportive regarding bike parts, tubes, tires, there’s nothing. small frame/jersey pocket pump, I have brought Co2 many times but not sure the company you will be flying.

Major danger in CUBA is the rain, road became like ice rinks because a lot of cars leak oil, so be careful…

Enjoy your trip!

Nice! Get a copy of marxs capital while you’re out there and learn about the critique of political economy

Thank you Bancarel & MTL for all the awesome detail.

Most appreciated.

Just back from the week of cycling in Cuba.

My wife and I thought it was awesome! Already talking about going back next year! We had a great time, but I can tell you most assuredly, it is NOT for everyone. We even had people in our group that were “disappointed” - but their expectations of a whole bunch of things about this trip were way out-of-line with reality. Everything you said in your post was dead-on. I’ve also spent a fair amount of time in 3rd world and developing countries so, knew what I was getting into with this.

The guy organizing the trip has great relations with a number of the local top road-racers in the Varadero area, so we road with them as leaders every day. Got in a moderately hard 100K +/- every day for 5 days. We bailed on a ride on the one day it did rain after about 30k - as you had mentioned, with all the oil on the roads - they are like skating rinks when wet. Not worth it. This was real road riding - spirited sessions with extended jams at 45km/h and other times it’s all “piano”/“tranquillo” catching the breath and chatting. They ride with spirit and passion in the Latin Countries!

Highlight was the 150k ride with a strong tail wind from our Hotel in Varedero to Havana - with organized sag & transportation for bikes and ourselves (12 of us) back to the hotel, after a hearty meal and a few beers at a restaurant in old Havana that’s a favorite of one of the local riders!

Despite what you may see as mayhem and chaos on the part of drivers in Cuba, EVERY vehicle/driver, was extraordinarily respectful of cyclists.* Would always WAIT to make a truly safe pass.* Then give the friendly little toot of the horn when coming by, and even a wave and a friendly “Hola”. (Why can’t it be this way in North America?). At the end of the week - we concluded, we felt safer riding on the roads in Cuba than at home!!

For payment to the Cubans we stripped a bunch of stuff off our bikes (tires, tubes, chains, water-bottles, patch kits etc as well as some clothing and apparel) and left it all for them - most of them really have nothing.

Picture below - passing through Cardenas - heading out to the country (This was the day after the rain - so standing water in a few places).

http://i66.tinypic.com/33uc0g7.jpg

Getting up close with Che!

http://i63.tinypic.com/339qex4.jpg

Glad you had a great trip and the information I provided was helpful. :slight_smile: