I’ve had my first gen Hammer for 2+ years. I use it 3 times a week and it’s still running strong. It’s built like a tank and I like how it folds up to a compact size, if needed, and has a built in carry handle.
The only thing you’re giving up compared to newer trainers is noise. The current generation of direct drive trainers is markedly quieter. The noise doesn’t bother me at all, but if you live in an apartment or are otherwise concerned about noise level, that’s the only concern I would have with the original Hammer.
The noise doesn’t bother me at all, but if you live in an apartment or are otherwise concerned about noise level, that’s the only concern I would have with the original Hammer.
I’ll be in my garage gym on horse stall mats most of the time so I’m not likely to bother anyone with the noise.
One thing to keep in mind is that the H1/Hammer actually got some rather meaningful updates this past summer, eliminating many of the earlier power spike issues. At the end of the day, the H1/H2 are only different in paint job, and the H3 is only different because it got quieter…and another paint job.
One thing to keep in mind is that the H1/Hammer actually got some rather meaningful updates this past summer, eliminating many of the earlier power spike issues. At the end of the day, the H1/H2 are only different in paint job, and the H3 is only different because it got quieter…and another paint job.
Thank you! I grabbed the Hammer. Came out to $535 after tax. Now to figure out how to purchase and mount a proper cassette on it so I can actually use it!
I’m new to trainers, but I’m ok spending a bit more for a quality product.
Would you buy a new Hammer for $500 or a used Kickr Snap for $300?
I’d need some tools and a cassette for the Hammer so maybe consider that one $550.
Will I be that much happier with direct drive?I have a Snap, it’s complete garbage. Sometimes off by 20-30%. When I decide to replace it it’ll be for a Saris Hammer.
I have a Snap, it’s complete garbage. Sometimes off by 20-30%. When I decide to replace it it’ll be for a Saris Hammer.
x2. Snap is a steaming pile. I had ethical reservations about selling mine for money, so I just gave it away. Only all my other Wahoo products being very good prevented me from souring on Wahoo.
I’m new to trainers, but I’m ok spending a bit more for a quality product.
Would you buy a new Hammer for $500 or a used Kickr Snap for $300?
I’d need some tools and a cassette for the Hammer so maybe consider that one $550.
Will I be that much happier with direct drive?I have a Snap, it’s complete garbage. Sometimes off by 20-30%. When I decide to replace it it’ll be for a Saris Hammer.
Did you calibrate it using the Wahoo app? We had similarly dismal results calibrating the Snap in Zwift (should mention this was a year ago, so can’t speak to how Zwift is now). Got somewhat better but not great results calibrating in the Wahoo app, maybe about 5% off or so. But since my wife has a Quarq she uses it as the power source on her Snap and that works fine. If you don’t have a power meter I really can’t recommend the Snap.
We originally got the Snap since at the time we had a mix of 10 and 11 speed drivetrain bikes that would be used on it and didn’t want to swap cassettes. The Snap was replaced once for bad bearings under warranty. It’ll soon be out of warranty so crossing my fingers that no other problems crop up. It does have a good road feel for a wheel-on trainer.
My new H3 matches my Quarq exactly for all power durations except for a small discrepancy at very short power intervals where presumably the capture rate starts affecting the accuracy of the comparison. A lot of my friends have Hammers due to a couple of group buys. Most of them don’t have power meters but the power I see them putting out in Zwift always seems very much in line with what I would expect. None have had trouble with their trainers. The Hammer has very nice road feel and direct drive is a nice upgrade over wheel-on.
So strongly endorse the Hammer over the Snap as others suggest.
One thing to keep in mind is that the H1/Hammer actually got some rather meaningful updates this past summer, eliminating many of the earlier power spike issues. At the end of the day, the H1/H2 are only different in paint job, and the H3 is only different because it got quieter…and another paint job.
Ray, can you comment on whether the flywheel case of the hammer provides better chain stay clearance than the neo? My neo 2 hits the chainstay on my wife’s cervelo p4 so I’m looking at adding either the h3 or the kickr, assuming either are narrower at the case.
I’ve had my first gen Hammer for 2+ years. I use it 3 times a week and it’s still running strong. It’s built like a tank and I like how it folds up to a compact size, if needed, and has a built in carry handle.
The only thing you’re giving up compared to newer trainers is noise. The current generation of direct drive trainers is markedly quieter. The noise doesn’t bother me at all, but if you live in an apartment or are otherwise concerned about noise level, that’s the only concern I would have with the original Hammer.
I had a Powerbeam Pro for a long time before I got my Hammer which by comparison is deathly quiet. When my H1 finally dies and I get the latest/greatest, I will probably be shocked that anything could be quieter. It’s all relative!
I had a snap and it was great, given understandable limitations of a wheel on trainer. I also have an original Kickr and a Kickr Core and thought both were awesome - once you go direct drive you dont go back.