I am cutting carbon aero bar extensions with a hacksaw later today and from what I have read online some say just to buy a blade with the most amount of teeth they sell (32 teeth), others say carbide blade (I am assuming its a ceramic tile cutting blade?). Let me know what you use. Of course I want to try to avoid any type of fraying of the carbon and plan on using painters tape over the area where I will be cutting.
Thanks
I’ve used a regular high tooth count blade every time have done it without any issues. I’ve found wrapping with electrical tape seems to help with any fraying/splintering better than masking tape.
I’ve used a regular high tooth count blade every time have done it without any issues. I’ve found wrapping with electrical tape seems to help with any fraying/splintering better than masking tape.
This. You might want to clamp the bar into a jig before cutting so you can get it straight.
Yep ---- metal cutting blade ---- high tooth count is good. measure three times cut once
You can ‘wet cut’ by keeping the area damp during cutting
Keeps all the nasty carbon dust from getting everywhere
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I am cutting carbon aero bar extensions with a hacksaw later today and from what I have read online some say just to buy a blade with the most amount of teeth they sell (32 teeth), others say carbide blade (I am assuming its a ceramic tile cutting blade?). Let me know what you use. Of course I want to try to avoid any type of fraying of the carbon and plan on using painters tape over the area where I will be cutting.
Thanks
32T high carbon steel blade. Did not use painters tape or masking tape and it came out just fine. Suggest that you: (1) wear a mask; (2) wear goggles or other protective eye wear; (3) cut outside; and (4) wash hands thoroughly after cutting. The carbon/resin dusts goes everywhere while cutting.
Thanks for the posts and the information. Going to give it a go later.
I’d second both the electrical tape (or if you’ve got some, hockey grip tape) and using a wet method (just pouring water works) to keep the dust down.
measure thrice, cut once and go slow to start until you’ve established a good straight cut then go all out. pipe cutting guides help, alternately, two closely spaced hose clamps to help make the cut at a right angle
I cut mine with a hacksaw. The problem that I encountered was the inside is only reamed out so far and the shifters would no longer fit without more reaming. It was a real pain.
I’ve used a composite-specific hacksaw ‘blade’ ~ it’s not really a blade in the conventional sense, though, but a rod coated in some sort of carbide grit… so in essence it’s kinda like you’re actually ‘sanding’ a narrow trough all the way through the carbon tube.
i use both kinds of blades. the only problem with the carbide blade is that some of them are too thick to go through my miter block (i have a cycling specific miter block for steerers, aerobar extensions, and whatnot). miter block goes in the bench vise. i’m sure this is heresy, but i will often just use my sawzall. i have carbide blades for my sawzall. i saw, or have sawn, right through, with the sawzall, using the miter block. i don’t see the problem.