What size frame are you looking at, top tube length?
We need to get you hooked up before Sept.
-g
My 54cm Felt F1C w/ Zipp 303’s weighs 14.6 lbs. $4500 american dollars.
The fastest way to lose climbing weight is tires, tubes.
Then saddle, wheels, seatpost.
A 15 lb bike can be expensive.
You have a light frame, so you are set there.
Work on the pieces you can change, keeping your wheels (PT) and cranks (RC).
Grab your bike and reply back with the make and model of your:
Saddle
Post
Pedals
TIres
Tubes
Stem
Bar
Skewers
Drivetrain (derailleurs,chain,shifters,cassette)
Brake calipers
Cages
We will start there … I am a reformed weight weenie, so I know my craft well and know some tricks to get your bike lighter for less.
-g
Well, nothing too porky on your bike, but I can probably shave a pound easy for $272.00:
Saddle/post: keep one for racing, one for training if you must, use your Arione/aluminum bontrager for training and get a SLR/Alien and save 240g ($250) - pow!
Tubes: Your Bontys probably weight over 150g each , so if you go for 75 g each Conti superlights for $5 each, you can save 150g right there: http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?page=8&description=Tube+Light&vendorCode=CONTI&major=1&minor=31
Drivetrain: You running 9 speed? If so, Ultegra is pretty light and very durable, not going to lose you a race.
Cages: get these and save 50g pr for $12 (maybe) http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?page=8&description=Kage+Bottle+Cage&vendorCode=PROFILE&major=3&minor=12
merely ditching the powertap will lose you a fair bit of weight. those things are porky. and they’re more training tools than race equipment. generally, the wheels are the best place to lose weight. for a total of $3k and some smart buying, you could probably get a 15.5lb bike (7kg). however, your frame is definitely not superlight. carbon stays on aluminum bikes definitely add weight.
Powertap SL’s are only 90g heavier than DA 7800 hubs, and can be built into 1400ish g zipp 303 tubulars if you want. Joe is running a PR Pro however.
Weight is overrated, I ditched my Zero-G brakes, USE post, for reliability and durability.
400g of addl weight over a hilly 20k TT accounts for only 6 seconds of time penalty. If he can pace better with a PT on a climb, then it is worth it for certain.
Don’t know about the USCF. It’s definately UCI illegal.
You are not fat, and neither is your bike. Sheesh. You should meet me and my bike. For fair comparison.
I would not recommend using lightweight tubes like you said. It’s not worth it when you flat during a race- and you will. It cost me a 1/2 IM.
Any just curious- why did you ditch the Zero Gravity brakes?
"why did you ditch the Zero Gravity brakes? "
At the time (2004) they did not make a compatible cork pad for carbon rims that worked well.
Maybe they have something better now. I use a Moots Ti laidback post and DA 7800 brakes now.
What’s not durable about the USE Alien Carbon post, Gary? I’ve had mine for 4 years now, over two bikes, 6 saddles, and numerous adjustments, and its still just ast strong as when new…
The original clamp failed. I returned it. Seems the early models had an issue with failures.
Don’t take this the wrong way, but you do know that you can put almost any pad on almost any brake.
Styrrell
Koolstop carriers that I used on the ZG’s only accepted Koolstop pads, which howled and did not work very well, so I superglued some Corima cork pads in there (Basso used this method in the Tour last year I believe). The glue eventually failed and I lost the pads. Maybe they fixed this issue and got some better pads for carbon rims. I dont know. I have DA7800 now an I am very happy with them.
So you say you are fat ? Why not spend the money on a Personal Trainer who knows what he’s doing rather than blow 1000’s on a light bike for the sake of it.
Great riding with you this morning. The only things that I noticed on your bike was the seat post and cranks. The post you have is a PIG (350g) I’ll give you a carbon one that I sitting around if you want. Your Ultegra triple is a load and you make WAY to much power to need the little ring. Honestly 400g isn’t going to make a dif… you are fast already. Of course if you keep insisting on ridding at 8,400 ft then I think the O2 bottle you will need to carry might add a few pounds.
Ron
BTW: It has taken 4 margaritas to kill the pain.
check the review of the Scott CR1 on pez. pretty interesting, and could be down your alley. But I’ve always been partial to Kleins, had an mtb way back when.
other than that, i’d say pay for a GOOD coach rather than upgrades - there’s some on this forum who know a ton about working w/ powertap information…
I’m kinda surprised jhendric hasn’t jumped in and pointed out that weight, rotating or not, is fairly inconsequential. 
Especially w/ your riding style - i don’t think you’re much of a sprinter right?
Judging by the picture he posted on the post-you-pic thread, he is definitively not fat. I believe he was kidding about that part.
Yes, but right now, you’re very hot. Don’t compromise that for the sake of a couple minutes off your Mt. Palomar time. Rather keep the hotness, and improve your motor and climbing skills. Bet you can go 3min faster just by practicing the ride.
And anyway, if you’ve never lost weight, you don’t know whether your performance and immune system will or will not suffer. Having been a lightweight and been around lightweight rowers for a decade, Ive seen a lot of this. Some folks do well with weight loss, some people literally fly when light, and others go into total system failure. Unless you’ve done it, and know your limits (how quickly, how much, for how long) you can’t say what group you fit into. You might just go 3min worse if lighter.
In a race where there is just over 29,000’ of climbing, I’d say it’s fairly consequential.
uh , HELL yeah!
That doesn’t mean I’m actually going to drop $5,000 on a pro-level bike though, I’m just curious what they cost.
http://pezcyclingnews.com/?pg=fullstory&id=3234
about $3000 for the 7.7 kg CR1 w/ Centaur, for starters. heck, find a shop that sells em, show them your results, and tell them you’ll ride in their name. can’t hurt to ask!
It’s hard to say whether or not I’ll end up being much of a sprinter. I don’t have super explosive power, but relative to others, according to Andy Coggan’s charts, my 1 min power is my strongest asset, then 5 min power, then threshold power, then neuro-muscular power. With another year or so of training that could be switched up though, we’ll see.
agreed - i really think it takes more than a few seasons for all neuromuscular adaptations to fully take place. unfortunately there is precious little research on this, but i believe it’s part of what makes high-volume training successful.