I am looking to convert my mtb from 2x to 1x . It currently runs Seam GX. I am I right in thinking I would need a 1x crankset and a 1x rear mech. Is that all?
If you have a clutch rear derailleur already you really just need a new chainring. I moved to 1x by just adding a Race Face narrow/wide chainring (other brands are available as well) to my current 2x crankset. The narrow/wide configuration eliminates the need for a chain guide. You may need to purchase some single chainring bolts as well. I use a bash guard so I was able to keep the 2x bolts.
All you need to buy is a narrow/wide chain ring in the correct size and some single ring bolts. You do not need a clutch RD.
Thanks - what’s the difference between the x1 rear mechanical and the x2 if they both have clutches?
there is no difference
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All you need to buy is a narrow/wide chain ring in the correct size and some single ring bolts. You do not need a clutch RD.
This matches my experience as well.
~1000 miles of XC on varied terrain - through water, mud, sand, over rocks/roots, jumping trail features, small drops - never dropped a chain or other ill effects; I also couldn’t be bothered to shorten the chain so it’s likely a couple links too long. Worst case, you buy your $40 raceface chain ring, find out you’re dropping chains after riding a couple hundred miles and then have to go out and get a clutch RD.
If you were in the business of making money selling components, wouldn’t you do your best to convince everyone that they need to buy another piece of your equipment, instead of someone else’s chain ring and done? It’s just business.
There is no need to change the RD. However, if you have a long cage RD, when it gets trashed you can replace it with a medium cage RD that doesn’t get wrecked as soon.
My experience is the same - no dropped chains even without the clutch. I have heard that the clutch is nice to prevent chain slap, but the narrow/wide chainring handles the retention.
You will have a lot less range unless you get a new cassette as well. That’s a whole can of worms though. You would need a new cassette, driver body, RD, and chainring.
This isn’t true. Their 1x RDs have a horizontal parallelogram linkage. Basically this means that the clutch won’t cause your RD to ghost shift over bumpy terrain. Their 2x RDs use a slant parallelogram linkage. You can get a better rear shift with this design. The 2x RDs usually aren’t capable of handling the large range of the 1x cassettes as well.
You will have a lot less range unless you get a new cassette as well. That’s a whole can of worms though. You would need a new cassette, driver body, RD, and chainring.
Can’t you get one of those Wolf Tooth big cogs?
In my experience the shifting isn’t that great and you’ll end up with a weird jump somewhere else in your cassette. Plus the range closer but not all there.
Full disclosure, I have an XX1 bike. I do like 1x better than 2x but I don’t think running some cobbled together 1x setup is worth the upgrade if you already have a new 2x drivetrain.
Sorry, you’re right. I run a Shimano 1x and didn’t notice he was specifically referencing SRAM. My fault.
The current cassette is a 10-42 with xd driver so I guess I am cool on that front.
All you need to buy is a narrow/wide chain ring in the correct size and some single ring bolts. You do not need a clutch RD.
I’ve had the same experience as this on all my 1x setups using a regular non-clutch RD with no drops (thousands of kms), except for my latest conversion. My Fatbike using a 28t wolftooth ring actually need a clutch RD to stay on. It didn’t fall off very often, maybe once every other ride. I slapped on an xo clutch RD I had lying around and it solved my problem.
This being said, this is likely due to the extremely small 28t ring and wide range of gears on the rear (11-40). There shouldn’t be any issues with a more ‘normal’ front ring size setup.
You will have a lot less range unless you get a new cassette as well. That’s a whole can of worms though. You would need a new cassette, driver body, RD, and chainring.
Check out one up. Uses existing cassette. Very little cost to go to a wide range 1x setup.
http://www.oneupcomponents.com/
Checking the rd is a horizon model which I think is the horrizontal one?
All you’d need is a narrow/wide chain ring that matches the cranks you have and a clutch rear derailleur (which if you have GX, you’re good there). A bunch of companies make them. I like Wolf Tooth but Race Face and OneUp also have solid offerings.