Any reason this would be a problem? Obviously could be more friction on the cable but is there any reason not to do it.
Isn’t that how your DA is? That is how both my internal routing bikes have been. So if I have been doing it wrong for 9 years, oops!
If a long cable housing run is not firmly anchored, it can flex a little and cause soft or imprecise shifting.
It is bike specific. If there are no ferrule blocks for end of housing run, you run continuous housing. If there are stops, then you put the proper ferrule on the housing and continue the cabling. Most frames contain information on the cabling recommendations within the manuals, for newer bikes typically mechanical and electrical routing options are given.
I have bikes that are both full housing runs and ones that are not.
It’s for a speed concept. It has a cable housing stop under the BB but I was thinking about just running the last little bit of housing.
Not intimately familiar with the speed concept routing. All of the ones I have seen if there is a stop then there is not a way to run the housing through the stop unless you drilled it out.
That was my plan. Worked ok for other bikes
It’s for a speed concept. It has a cable housing stop under the BB but I was thinking about just running the last little bit of housing.
My P5 was like this, I dremmeled out the stops under the bb and ran full housing for rd.
Much better with no shifting issues.
Maurice
2 of my bikes (1x MTB full susser, and 1x commuter) are run full length. No probs at all.
In my cases, what ever drag comes from the longer outer, is bettered by having less drag from not having as many ferrules.
The deraileurs are oblivious to whether the housing is inside or outside.
You would possibly have to drill out the hole where the cable exits the rear stay if you plan on running the housing out the back and right into the deraileur.
There is a housing stop that goes at the rear of the chainstay so I would either just remove that all together and run the housing out or drill that out as well but I won’t have to mess with anything on the frame at all. I’m thinking I’m going to try it because the housing stop under the bottom bracket it’s just a small plastic part that actually screws in so it can be removed and replaced easily if I screw up.
I had a mountain bike like that as well as my Felt DA.
Mountain bike was all external and the DA is internal.
You’re adding a little bit more weight, and - as you pointed out - more friction. Other than that, I see no problem. I have a cervelo R3 and the rear brake is a full cable run - no issues.
Yeah my DA was that way. But they don’t give you an option with that bike. DA is currently di2 but maybe i should swap that to the SC🤔
Hi,
Best thing you can do.
Ferrules add more friction than a cable through a liner would ever do.
Drizzle chain lube or oil down the outer before you insert the inner and it will be super slick.
The inner cable will last a lot longer as well as it’s not subject to any external contamination compared to one with multiple outer cable splits.
There’s a reason it’s been like this on mountain bikes for a while.
I drill out all the stops that I can on all of my bikes to run a complete outer from shifter to mech.
Pat.
I do this on my Trek Checkpoint gravel bike to lessen the number of places for sand to get into the housing. It works fine. You’ll want to put a bit of foam around the cables in the downtube as they can make noise as they thump around.