Hey, I’ve been using tubed 4000’s for many years. Great tire, very few flats. Switched to tubed 5000s about 300 miles ago. Love the low rolling resistance, but I seem to be getting a much greater number of flats. Could easily be just bad luck, but wonder if anyone else has experienced anything similar.
Thanks.
Hey, I’ve been using tubed 4000’s for many years. Great tire, very few flats. Switched to tubed 5000s about 300 miles ago. Love the low rolling resistance, but I seem to be getting a much greater number of flats. Could easily be just bad luck, but wonder if anyone else has experienced anything similar.BRR has them the same: https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/...grand-prix-5000-2018
I’m still on my stock of 4000s. I have a pair of ‘new’ 5000s, but they come up narrower than I expected on my rims, so I’m reluctant to use.
Awesome website. Thanks.
It seems to show 2 watts savings on the 5000s in rolling resistance at 100 psi??
Were you able to determine what caused it? Nails, stickers, thorns, pot holes, pinch flat…etc? I have 3 bikes with GP5000 tires so total 6 of them, but haven’t had a single flat for 2-3 years. I ride on some nasty chip seals with a lot of debris on the shoulder sometimes, but no problem.
Not really. It appears to be punctures, as I haven’t noticed the traditional pinch flat snakebite. Running 28s at 85 psi.
There’s no reason to justify why GP5000 would be more prone to puncture than GP4000s II. Both have the same 3/330 TPI, similar measured width etc.
If it’s not a single faulty manufacturing case, I’d recommend you look into the setup: did you leave some dirt in the tire AND/OR does your pressure tape need replacement AND/OR did you pinch the inner tube with the tire bead? I’d look into those.
Bad luck.
Hey, I’ve been using tubed 4000’s for many years. Great tire, very few flats. Switched to tubed 5000s about 300 miles ago. Love the low rolling resistance, but I seem to be getting a much greater number of flats. Could easily be just bad luck, but wonder if anyone else has experienced anything similar.
Thanks.
My experience, and the experience of a small group of riders that I know pretty well, is that the 5000s don’t seem more prone to punctures than the 4000s. I think that your experience might be bad luck.
My tire of choice is Schwalbe Pro One, but recently I needed a tire and I could not find the Schwalbe’s for a descent price so I got a GP5000.
It is on my rear wheel and so far no punctures so I don’t feel it is puncture prone.
I feel safe responding now that it is out of my outdoor riding window with fresh snow on the ground where I am. I have two bikes setup with 5000’s and have had very good luck with flats. None so far in two seasons of riding and racing. Interestingly enough, the season prior to switching i was running 4000’s and had a string of bad luck/user error with three flats in one summer season. I would chalk it up to randomness. Believe the information out there over the limited sample size any single rider can provide (even if it is you and the sting of fixing flats comes with it).
Upgraded to 5000s from 4000s
Only had one puncture with the 5000s. It definitely feels a bit more fragile and they are definitely wearing faster than the 4000s.
I would rate the 5000s somewhere in between Corsa Speed and the 4000s for puncture resistant and durability.
Upgraded to 5000s from 4000s
Only had one puncture with the 5000s. It definitely feels a bit more fragile and they are definitely wearing faster than the 4000s.
I would rate the 5000s somewhere in between Corsa Speed and the 4000s for puncture resistant and durability.
This is an important detail–I’m finding that the 5000s wear more quickly that the 4000s, too. Thanks for bringing this up.
It’s been my experience that a hole in the tire more easily becomes a “slit” on the 5000 tires, which makes it easier for latex inner tubes to herniate through. They probably changed the angle the carcass casings cross each other vs the 4000. You probably won’t notice this with butyl.
I’m one of those folks which has had some problems with flats with GP5000s.
For me and the roads I ride on, it’s less punctures, rather than if I accidentally hit a small rock (I know I should be avoiding these but still) - with the GP5000s, they tend to rip the sidewall, thus requiring a tire boot. I’ve been surprised at how easy it’s been to rip these things, as with other more sturdy tires in the past I haven’t had such problems. (And definitely no such problems with Gatorskins, but well, they’re Gatorskins.)
I’m going to try and find a tire with a stronger sidewall for training; right now I have a janky front wheel setup that makes zero sense of a Gatorskin which I had sitting unused so I mounted it, with a latex tube under it. It does run fine, albeit a hair slower than the GP5000s in my training rides but I may leave it on until race day since I freaking hate sidewall tears and I’ve suffered 3 of them in the past 2 years.
Anecdotal experience of 1, but I switched to the 5000s last year (from the 4000s) and had 3 suffer sidewall gashes in 12 months. Never had a sidewall puncture before. Same roads as I’d been riding for several years on the 4000s and other tires. After having to replace 3 of them in such a short time frame, including suffering a gash on a brand new tire with less than 50 miles, I switched away. I couldn’t justify spending that kind of money on tires that often. It’s a bummer because the 4000s were so reliable for me.
I’m just one person, but yes, I had a similar experience after I switched from the 4000s.
There’s no reason to justify why GP5000 would be more prone to puncture than GP4000s II…
How about independent third party formal testing?
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/continental-grand-prix-4000s-ii-2014
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/continental-grand-prix-5000-s-tr
And the above scoring somewhat matches what some of us have experienced with both models.
I definitely saw an increase. Had two flats on my road bike over a period of 3 years when running 4000s and then had two within 2 months of switching to 5000s this year. Quickly swapped to tubeless and never looked back (GP 5000s in tubeless work great by the way). I blame the narrower width for the same size tire on the 5000s. No idea why they designed them to blow up narrower as that defies modern tire design…
Were you able to determine what caused it? Nails, stickers, thorns, pot holes, pinch flat…etc? I have 3 bikes with GP5000 tires so total 6 of them, but haven’t had a single flat for 2-3 years. I ride on some nasty chip seals with a lot of debris on the shoulder sometimes, but no problem.
Nearly the same for me:
1 bike GP5000 with tubes
1 bike GP5000 tubules
No flats in over two years.
My GP4000 were also great but the sidewall failed twice (in I don’t know how many pairs… lots and lots)
Opposite experience for me on my first set of GP5000 clinchers - 3,500 miles so far and no flats. I definitely got more flats on GP4000 SIIs.
I’ve been running tubed an tubeless across multiple sets of wheels for what seems like forever now and have not had one flat. I can’t say flats were prevalent with 4000’s and I may have just jinxed myself but so far I’d say the 5000’s are better.