I’m very computer ignorant. I’ve had a CT a long time and have only used it via the PC software courses they have. A friend suggested I just use the stand alone option and set it my desired wattage. How do you do this? Do I still have to calibrate it before I ride? If I want to ride 60 minutes at 200 watts what do I do? I had read somewhere just set it at 200 watts and pedal away–but isn’t this dependent on how fast(RPM) I pedal? I mean if I got on and just softly pedaled it won’t force to do this at 200 watts will it?
you still need to calibrate before every ride.
On my CT you calibrate, hit F3 to lock in your RR, then hit F2 to bring up ERG mode. “50” (watts) will pop up. Now adjust to 200 watts. The Computrainer will adjust resistance to match your cadence to make 200 watts.
Thanks, another dumb question, I’ve only calibrated using the software and PC, how do I calibrate w/out this just using the handle bar control?
If I want to ride 60 minutes at 200 watts what do I do? I had read somewhere just set it at 200 watts and pedal away–but isn’t this dependent on how fast(RPM) I pedal? I mean if I got on and just softly pedaled it won’t force to do this at 200 watts will it?
To each of the 3 questions:
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You set the wattage on the controller to 200 watts. Depending on how precise your computrainer is that will be close-ish to 200 watts. See next question.
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You just edal away. The load generator is doing calcs, etc. as you pedal. It continuously adjusts, but it will generally be 200ish watts if your cadence stays the same. See next question.
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The load generator will try to hit the 200 watts. If you are just softly pedaling you won’t be able to turn the cranks unless you pedal softly at 200 watts. I have found that as the cadence gets below about 60rpm, the load generator becomes a bit more fussy and a desired wattage of 200 watts will feel/be much higher.
it should be default to setting it. So when you turn it on it’ll start showing your MPH… when you hit over 25mph and then start coasting down a number will pop up. Repeat that 3(ish) times until you get every rolldown within .0x of each other. (Warm up the roller around 10 minutes or so of course) When you get a close to repeatable number press F3, that locks it in. If you ever need to re-do it press “+” and “-” together.
Thanks, another dumb question, I’ve only calibrated using the software and PC, how do I calibrate w/out this just using the handle bar control?
Disclaimer - Although they sent the new software to me years ago I never uploaded it, I don’t know if it does but it might affect the button sequence…
What I do
Turn on
Push top middle (i think ?) button for erg mode, get the flashing “50”
Warmup, steadily increasing to 150w, and at 10 minutes
Push both the + and - buttons at the same time, the numbers will flash, spin up to 25 mph plus, stop. When the wheel stops it will give you your value. Repeat to confirm and/or Adjust as needed.
When properly calibrated, push the “set” button (bottom middle?), and the wattage will stop flashing.
Still the same procedure on newer units/software 
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Still the same procedure on newer units/software
Good to know, they sent a new sticker for the head unit but it’s still in a drawer somewhere…
I think all the answers are above; but here’s a short writeup I did a few years ago to help someone get started:
you can actually use the CompuTrainer in stand-alone mode (i.e.; without the computer). Press F2 on the handlebar unit to get into “erg†mode (p 16 in manual); which allows you to put in a specific power output (in watts) that you want to ride at (using the + and – keys). Play around with that for a few minutes just to get general idea. F1 will start/stop the timer on the handlebar unit display. You can actually use pre-programmed routines or make up your own in that mode. The power readings won’t be accurate until you do calibration (next paragraph).
After riding for about 10 minutes, you’ll want to calibrate the unit (you’ll do this each time you ride, it’s very quick and easy and gives you accurate readings). This is explained in detail on p 15, but short version is press + and – keys at the same time. You’ll see display change, with your speed and “UP†on the display. You pedal faster until you break 25mph, and then let the wheel coast until a number is displayed. That number is your calibration, and you press F3 to save it (I usually do this at least twice before locking in). It remains in memory as long as the CT has power. To get back to erg mode and ride some more, press F2. Quick note about riding in erg mode: don’t bother changing gears on the bike. The CT is controlling the required power by changing internal resistance, so if you switch to easier gear it will just create more resistance in order to keep you at that power level. Also, I normally do a very quick calibration after riding first 2 minutes or so. It’s not as accurate as the “real†calibration after 10 minutes; but it at least gets you in the right vicinity.
Or you could plunge deep into the software side and download Zwift for your computer.
If you are already set up to run your CT using a computer why stop? If you are looking for a simpler approach than using the 3D software, try using the Coaching Software. If you haven’t loaded an ERG file or course running it manually is about the same as using only the handlebar controller, but it allows you to save your workout file.
As mentioned above, it doesn’t take much more effort to get Zwift running on the CT. Or consider Perfpro Studio which is everything Racermate should have offered with the CT on the software side.
Quick question for you (on why I do something… LOL). I have always brought the CT up to 150W before doing the spin up test, pretty sure I would have read that somewhere and not made it up myself, but looks like you’re referencing the manual which does not say that.
Can you do the calibration at any wattage?
The calibration has nothing to do with wattage. In calibration mode, it is based on the speed of the rear wheel. You pedal it up to a certain speed and when the CC text goes away, you stop pedalling and coast until you get your calibration number. I prefer a value around 2.8.
Then ride your bike for about 10 minutes to warm the tire up, and re-run the calibration test, adjusting the tension as needed to get back to a 2.8 value. Then you are set.
Hmmm, wonder where I got the 150 W. Thanks
Leads to another question, isn’t the calibration supposed to be around 2.0?
2.0 is the default setting, and I think that ‘maybe’ the load generator is supposed to be more accurate at that number. What we typically did was try to get about the same number each time. 2-2.7 or so usually.
I understand the ‘lure’ of the erg mode, it makes you hold a wattage. But I also think that for a lot of workouts, it isn’t the ‘best’ mode. The same is true with the Kikr trainers, which have an erg mode as well.
My preference for a lot of my rides, and the rides of the athletes I coach is to use a course or a flat course. I know it is easier, in some respects, to ‘program’ in a workout so that it adjusts the wattages for you. Or you use the computrainer head unit or the iPad/phone for the wahoo erg control. But, it doesn’t force you to concentrate on maintaining the wattages. That’s a pretty key part of race day, and I think it is something that is missed in the erg modes when training.
I can’t bring myself to ride the trainer right now, but when I do I may try some trainer road options. I would be riding more for fitness than training, so that would work. I do really like though the course options that computrainer has in the 3D modes, and that I ‘think’ Wahoo has on the Kikr for focus and concentration.
Yeah, I just haven’t migrated to any other software and cannot stand the 3D software, so I just run erg manually and watch videos
I have wondered whether it has affected my ability to hold power IRL, i seem to do better in training sessions than races on that account.
I kind of went off on a tangent with the erg vs. course mode.
But, I really do think that the benefits of riding a ‘course’ are a little bit lost by those who ride erg mode almost exclusively. Benefits being fitness from riding indoors as well as the mental and physical concentration required to hold watts.
Leads to another question, isn’t the calibration supposed to be around 2.0?
I use 2.8 because it keeps the wheel from slipping on the steep hills in Zwift. It’s also good for short sprints at high wattage. If you are doing threshold stuff, you probably don’t need that much wheel resistance.
I read the 150W somewhere, too. I think it was the resistance that would warm up the unit enough to get accurate calibration readings after 12 minutes or whatever.
I use an Edge 500 to capture the workout, so I don’t care about saving with the coaching software. Pumping up the rear tire to 120 (is this too high? Just thought maybe that’s why it hurts so much.) and tightening down the wheel contact until I can barely make it slip when I tug on it seems to be right in the 21x range.
I start the Garmin and warm up for 15 minutes, building up to 150. I understand that the wattage won’t be 100% accurate until calibration, but I can see the (minor) difference on the Garmin (Quarq). At 15 min, I calibrate a few times and save. Then start the main sets of the workout.
Interesting feedback about holding wattage IRL. I’m just getting back into IM training, so I’ve been riding solely in erg mode. At some point, I’ll hook up the laptop and ride some RCV courses.
Hmmm, wonder where I got the 150 W. Thanks
Leads to another question, isn’t the calibration supposed to be around 2.0?
Couple of excerpts below regarding calibration; as well as link to user manual where I found them. Like some of the others, I’ve found a value in the upper 2’s is usually about right and prevents tire slipping. Also, if you have a CT; do yourself a huge favor and get Zwift. You can do some great virtual riding including hills, mountains, sprints, etc., where you determine your own power output and use gears as normal; as well as erg mode pre-defined workouts, where you have to maintain the prescribed watts. You can even join group rides, races, etc.
https://www.racermateinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/CTSA2013.pdf
What can you do to assure greatest accuracy? First would be to set enough Press-On Force as established above. Second, and key, is to warm the system up to a stabilized temperature prior to calibration. The standard suggestion is to warm up at about 150 watts for 10 minutes. As stated on page 15, if the values obtained during the Rolling Calibration test continue to drop on successive runs, then the system is not warm enough to calibrate.
A common misconception is that the “optimum rolling calibration number†is 2.00 lbs. because this happens to be the default value displayed when you first power up the CompuTrainer. This is not true. With conventional road tires 2.00 lbs. might be considered an absolute minimum value when riding flat course, but higher values may be needed to eliminate tire slip if grades exceed that of a level road
A value above 5.00 is considered excessive by the software and cannot be saved.