I’m in the market for a new road bike. Exciting! I had a recent fit session that gave me numbers that represent what would be optimally efficient for me. Now I can hunt for a bike. But looking at the geometry charts of various bikes it’s not clear how to take my fit numbers and apply them to one bike vs. another.
Specifically, using a standard diagram like this one (from geometrygeeks), I want to take my optimal “distance from saddle to brake hood” number and apply that to various frames. How do I determine that based on knowing a bike’s top tube length?
I also have my “optimal saddle height (x) number” based on my current bike’s geometry. So I could figure out how much or little seat post would be showing on a different frame by adding ‘x’ to that bike’s seat tube distance. But that is optimal if the seat angle is the same. How might I compare things if the seat angles differ? And I think this needs to relate to the reach measurement above.
Bump/nudge/update, as the advice has been overwhelming (LOL)….
Turns out, it may not matter much at the end of the day. The bike shop setup a few options based on my numbers and brands they carried and I test rode them yesterday. I may not need to try out brands they don’t carry since there was a bike that I rode that was just so …. surprisingly and amazingly good. I may end the hunt.
The charts from manufacturers aren’t always super accurate and I don’t know of good free tools to project frame stack/reach into fit coordinates. Best bet is to use the frame coordinates to get you close as try before you buy (not always possible)
For anyone getting a fit to purchase a bike, the fitter should be supplying handlebar XY (for road bikes) along with the bar spec. If they’re not working to XY there is a reduced likelihood that your target position will be achieved.
Looks like the XY Bike Calc tool would be very useful.
Yes, my fit session gave me handlebar x/y, and saddle x/y numbers as well. Both before (current) and after (optimal). Looks like the calculator can convert those x/y’s to stack and reach; and then I can enter those stack and reach answers to get a list of bikes that would fit me. Nice!
edit - to enter my x/y numbers requires a subscription signup. argh. Will look into the free two week trial.
I’m finishing up the new bike purchase. (It’s only been 15 years since my last bike, LOL).
Different bikes, each one dialed in for optimal efficiency for me based on my fit #’s, can feel very different. It’s totally worth doing a test ride. There were a couple that were on my short list that I wasn’t able to test, so those are completely removed from consideration. Afterall, any modern bike is enough of a non-significant spend to just order one without riding it.
I expect I’ll be very happy for the next 15 or so years. It may be the last bike I buy.
I’m the same - LONG time between new bikes. I bought a new bike 2 years ago. Before that I had been riding for 12+ years one of the original Cervelo R3’s with full Dura Ace Mechanical kit from that era. I had made a few mods and changes - but it was still more or less in it’s orginal state. It now has a home on the trainer. My “new” bike was an Argon 18 Krypton Pro with SRAM Force - my first fully electronic bike and disc brakes. Love the bike - fantastic range. I have two sets of wheels - one for Gravel and one for the road. It’s the do-everything bike that I was looking for. The R3 was kind-of that bike from that era - late 2000’s - but the limiter was that it only took max 25mm tires. I now ride 30mm on the road and 38mm for Gravel.
My current (soon to be replaced) ride is an R3! Goes waaay back to the original CSC red/white/black color scheme. Mechanical shifting and rim brakes make it practically vintage it seems. Minor upgrades over the years (HED wheels, and a mix of DuraAce and Force components now). It’s still a sweet ride. But also time for me to get with the times.
I didn’t test ride an Argon myself. Sounds like it’s a worthy successor and working out very nicely for you.
Pretty much everyone has one of those true All-Rounders now. If you are not really high-level road racing - there’s no need for an aero-road bike. Going to a full-on gravel bike - might leave you a bit out of place for pure road riding. All-Rounders like the Krypton or in the Cervelo line the Caledonia, Trek Domane, Specialized Roubaix etc . . . are where thing are in my view the best bikes to buy these days. You can almost do anything on them. They would be right at home on a fast Road Group ride over any kind of terrain, and with a change of wheels/tires. other than the gnarliest gravel - at home there as well!
Life is too short to not try different brands/models. So I passed on Specialized, Trek, Bianchi… and a couple of others that I’ve had. I’m also a dedicated roadie. In fact, if there’s a trail or gravel next to a smooth roads I find I always move onto the road. Even on my mtn bike. It’s always faster on the road.
I was ok staying with Cervelo. Rode the S3, the R5, Soloist. S3 is awesomely good looking, but I don’t ride at >30mph enough to take advantage; the R5 felt too similar as a climbing bike like the R3, and the Soloist was great (on paper), but not impressive enough on the test ride.
A Wilier Filante stood out favorably. Cannondale was ok. Bianchi was ok.
Then i rode a Pinarello Dogma. OMG! that was it. Then I tried the Pinarello F. OMG again! And the price point compared to the Dogma sealed the deal for me in a mic drop kind of way. I don’t know how Pinarello dials their ride quality in – asymmetric tubes, airflow around the headset, blah blah…but it worked in a Holy Cow kind of way. I now get what people say about the feel.
Many many years ago I got approval from my OH/SWMBO to get a Dogma. She was really the one pushing it. Context was I was on a second hand Cannondale alu frame I’d bought 2nd hand for NZ$600 so US400 and had been riding it 400km a week for years. I priced up the dogma and then just as I was going to pull the trigger got really busy with work, and so didn’t follow through as my time to enjoy was heavily curtailed. A few years later I did get a new bike, but was a more sensible Cannondale synapse that I’ve had since 2015 and is still doing me fine. In hindesight very glad I didn’t get the dogma, but if I were to need a new bike now then I think I would make a heart based purchase on the dogma vs the head based for the LAB71 synapse.
I’ve gotten two outdoor rides since picking it up. It rides just as well as it did on the test ride (be a bummer if it didn’t). Couple of observations on a new bike:
Pinarello’s new through axle design is genius, and a pleasant surprise.
Charging the rear derailleur… Never ever had to do that before. Bike shop said charge every 7000 shifts. Like I ever count shifts LOL?? Or every couple of weeks. I figure I’d charge it when I charge my computer, and lights.
I need to go back and have the shop cut the steerer tube down. Bike looks great, but absurd having that much steerer tube showing. (shop said they send them out like that in case bars need to adjusted upwards).
The handlebars are a bit narrower (based on my fit session), but it does feel very noticeable on out of saddle holding the hoods with narrower bars. Didn’t notice that on the test rides.
A parking garage is a great place to test/ride a bike. Ramps simulate climbing, and I slalom down the ramps to simulate a curved descents. I need to do that more. (obviously - the upper empty levels of a parking garage, not the busier lower tiers).
When I made the shift to an eShifting from mechanical shift bike I had to get in the habit of every few rides, right after the ride, pop the SRAM Batteries and put them on the Charger!
Congrats on the new bike! Assuming you use a Garmin or other computer, you can view Sram battery life for shifters and derailleurs. I’d highly recommend investing in a spare battery or two and always taking a spare with you. You can swap the front and rear if the rear dies, but they’re so small that it’s easy to carry a spare.
The bike has an Ultegra drive train. Computer is Wahoo.
On my to do list is to download and check out the E-Tube app which I hear will allow me to check battery life, (re)program shifters if nec, have some additional info displayed on my Wahoo display, and some other cool stuff.
If ultegra then that’s got the battery in the seattube (charged from the rear derailler). You can press the button on the rear mech and the flashes tell you the battery level. But you’ll really only need to charge every 3 months or so….
And I like someone else has a car tailored to their bike - I went around with a tape measure and was the single criteria for my car purchase. Could wheel in my roadbike with both wheels on. Tri bike could fit too until I put the Fast TT bars on that sit higher. So am now considering a swap from the Pajero/Shogun to a Defender.
Oh, FYI I find it easiest to recharge the battery from a powerbank. Same small ones you can use for phones, size of a pack of cards but a quarter of the thickness. Saves running extension cables around, or leaning the bike against the wall near a plug.
This is also handy as the one thing that I’ve seen at races a few times is when carrying their bike they’ve had something pressing the mech and the motor has been trying to resist/push back overnight. So then raceday morning the system is dead/bricked. Having the powerbank and cable with you means you can connect and recover it enough for a race in 10-15mins.
