Circular saw/ track saw

I’m planning a couple of projects with hardwood (actual wood, not flooring) that would benefit from a track saw type cut. I have a cheap circular saw that I don’t really trust, and I don’t think I would use a true track saw enough to warrant the expense of a good one. I was thinking of getting this adapter and a better saw.
I have the DeWalt 20v cordless batteries. Would there cordless circular saw have the power to work well on hardwood up to approx 2 inches? Am I better off with a corded option?
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/guides/76181-kreg-accu-cut-saw-guide?item=86N4110

I got a similar Kreg guide for a project over the Christmas break (replacing stair treads on our basement steps) I used a 12" chop saw to cut them to length, but needed to trim about 1.5" off the back edge to get the depth right.
After setting the guide up it worked like a charm, straight cut every time.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Rip-Cut-Cutting-Jig-Make-Precise-Rip-Cuts-and-Crosscuts-up-to-24-Inches-Wide/1000281745

I have a Skil corded circular saw that’s a few years old and it was simple to attach and set up. No input on the cordless type.

You could also build your own guide from scrap wood and a couple of clamps - tons of videos on Youtube.

I made one of these:

a few years ago during lockdown. It’s very effective especially if your waste is wide enough to let you screw it into the waste. Obviously for longer cuts you need a longer version of this.

Don’t know about a cordless saw and 2” hardwood though.

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For that kind of work, you want more power.

tim-taylor-tool

You can spend less than $150 and get a good quality corded circular saw. The battery won’t die in the middle of a cut.

2" of hardwood is a tall order even for a corded circular saw, depending on the wood species. You will be doing that in probably 3 passes, and you will need to pay close attention to the wood releasing tension, binding on you and throwing the saw, blade first, back in your direction. The cut will also not be a finished, glue ready cut due to the number of passes.

What are you making/trying to accomplish? I might be able to recommend a better process.

Making a big end grain cutting board (46x26), from a butcher block counter top. I will use the FIL’s table saw to cut the counter top into strips for the glue up, but I don’t want to take it back over there for the cuts to clean up the edges

Gotcha. Could you rent a track saw to do your basic dressing/cuts?

I have the smaller version of the corded festool track saw. It is lovely but would still require at least a few passes for something like that.

I haven’t used that Kreg adapter track. I have a corded track saw that, like BC noted, I’d make a few passes to avoid overwhelming the saw or risking kickback (and destroying your project; my track saw lacks a riving knife). The Kreg looks like it should work well and the DeWalt 20v 7 1/4" saw is pretty solid; not sure about the 6 1/2 though. I’d probably spring for a new blade, too, for a better cut.

Might go through several blades on something that thick if it’s maple or something.

On a cordless saw Id be making 1/4" deep passes. I have a Milwaukee fuel cordless circular saw, it’s a beast and even that gets bogged down sometimes on wood as soft as Douglas fir, or 2" thick lvl beams.

Unrelated but I started a thread a while back about track saws and ended up with the festool for my cabinet uppers. Expensive but extremely happy for 3/4 sheet goods:

ETA I believe I went with your recommendation which was festool.


Very cool. Although I’m upset you couldn’t line up the lines of the cabinets to the left of your fridge with the form ply lines of your walls ;-). Would love to see some pictures of how it looks finished.

Beech

We don’t typically see a lot of beech here but I think it’s almost as hard as oak. Can’t really comment on other properties of workability.

Yes, this is just rough mounting. So I have to take everything off and 4x light coats of diamond finish sanded 220 between…also there was a problem where I basically wrecked a sheet due to mis measure, so unfortunately grains didn’t line up the way I wanted. Also two boards need a 1/8 trim to match the shadow detail on the wall.

But I guess if you look at that I have 1300$ in saw plus accessories and 500$ in materials. Another 300$ in Kregs stuff.

Not perfect but super happy for my first go.

Maurice

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Sounds like I am taking it up to the table saw.

If you have a good cabinet shop, pay them to cut it on a slider saw. Beech is tough, and most home table saws will burn the edges alternatively if your glue up is close to final dimensions, pocket bore a strip of 3/4 ply to the bottom at actual dimension serving as a guide, then get yourself a good compression flush cut bit. You will need a 3 hp router.

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The Festool is a great tool.
But @sonofdad the Wen corded track saw is great for the price (which is about the price of the Kreg tracks)

Real data point. Our shop is doing a conference table in beech - 48 x 84 x 1 7/8. Trimmed to size with a 20v mi!waukee track saw. No issues.

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Thank you! That is helpful. It would be good if I don’t have to haul the slab around.
I’ve sent some messages to some woodworking shops, to see if they would do the trim cuts after glue up.
What I might do is see how it goes cutting the strips on the table saw, and then decide if I want to get a track saw, or have someone else do the cuts to dimension.

Wow. That’s impressive.