I’ve put about 3000 miles on my chain. I believe its an Ultegra. 2011 Cervelo P2. I have two Park Tool chain checkers, and it doesn’t read .75 yet with one, but the other does. I think I might be doing it incorrectly?
When you check, do you check in a few spots or just one is fine?
Is it about time to replace the chain?
3000 miles, it more than likely needs to be replaced badly.
I’d go with replacing it. I honestly don’t know how long I get because I tend to tinker with my bike a lot and sooner than later I change the chain when I cahange up the gearing.
Tracking mileage isn’t particularly useful because it varies a lot if you are generally a low power sunny day rider that lubes every ride with a decent lube a chain can last a very long time. Poor lube, dirt roads and rain and a chain can be shot in a few rides.
Thanks. I would say about 1200 to 1500 miles of that was on the trainer. I was good with lubing when riding outdoors, and realized I need to do the same indoors, so has been part of my practice now.
Pretty crazy how you can get a Ultegra chain for about $30, but retail is $60?!
Thanks for input.
Most or at least many bike shops dont really make a ton on bikes but service items, repairs and accesories pay the bills. Many internet shops have very low overhead
Yea. I try to buy small item stuff like this at my shop. Support your local bike shop is what I try. For big items, I let them know.
It would depend on how much you ride in rain/muck/dusty conditions, also measure at more than one location on the chain, you can get different readings. Mileage by itself is not a good barometer.
According to the Park TOol CC-3.2, I measure .75. I don’t have one that measures 1.00 with this.
The CC-2 measures .75 in some places and 1.0 at others.
I’ve read that if it reads 1.0 you’d have to replace the cassette.
I let my chain go to about this distance and when I changed it out and replaced it with a new Ultegra chain, the chain skipped badly on the chainring (big ring only, small was fine) so I ended up getting a new crank as chainrings were only slightly cheaper.
Now I replace my chains at 1200 odd miles (2000 k’s) as its far cheaper to replace a chain , then replace the whole drive chain everytime.
BUT, the chain was really really stretched (like 3-4 links longer over a new chain!!)
I have stopped using or trusting the cc-2. I seemed to be going through chains really quickly and I checked a brand new chain. That chain showed nearly .5 on the tool so I checked a few at the shop and theirs read the same. Not sure why but the 3.2 seems to be much better even if it is a go, no-go style.
I have stopped using or trusting the cc-2. I seemed to be going through chains really quickly and I checked a brand new chain. That chain showed nearly .5 on the tool so I checked a few at the shop and theirs read the same. Not sure why but the 3.2 seems to be much better even if it is a go, no-go style.
Problem with the C-2 is that if just once, you put more than super light pressure on the thumb lever it will bend the pin and you have ruined the measurement capability from then on. First person you lend it to who does not know how to use it will take care of that for you.
From Sheldon Brown (RIP):
Measuring Chain Wear The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler at the side of one rivet, then looking at the corresponding rivet 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this rivet will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the rivet will be past the inch mark.
This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets. first, let’s look at how to do this with a ruler that measures in inches.
If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.
In metric measurement, 10 links of a new chain are 25.4 cm, or 15 links, 38.1 cm.
If the rivet is up to 25.5 cm or halfway between 38.2 cm and 38.3 cm, all is well.If the rivet is a little bit past 25.5 cm, or approaching 38.3 cm, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.If the rivet is approaching 25.7 cm or 38.5 cm, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at this point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.More than that, and a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.
There are also special tools made to measure chain wear; these are a bit more convenient, though by no means necessary, and most – except for the Shimano TL-CN40 and TL-CN41 – are inaccurate because they allow roller play to confound the measurement of rivet-pin wear.
3,000 miles is a joke. I’d say you’re maybe 1/3 of the way there, depending on how you ride, and how clean you keep your drivetrain. If the chain tool says you’re fine, believe it.
3000 miles, it more than likely needs to be replaced badly.
Ridiculous. You must not take care of your bike. That, or you pump out 10,000 watts.
3,000 miles is a joke. I’d say you’re maybe 1/3 of the way there, depending on how you ride, and how clean you keep your drivetrain. If the chain tool says you’re fine, believe it.
LOL. Someone clue me in on where to get these magic chains that last 9000 miles.
The best method is to buy three chains. Round robin them at the end of every week. When they are worn, throw them and the cassette away. Don’t go to crazy on the mileage or you’ll wear the chainrings.
I have a friend who has 4 chains in rotation. When he gets to 0.25 on one, he goes to the next, until he has done this with all 4, then to 0.5 and then 0.75. When all have reached 0.75 by this method, he gets a new cassette and 4 new chains. (He’s an engineer at JPL who designs motors for Mars landers and other space exploration devices. So, he’s REALLY compulsive.)
I use to have the theory that chain cleaner and the time it takes to maintain a chain is not worth it when you can buy a new chain for like $30 on sale. I use to replace chains often.
Although, I also know that I have never ran most bike parts to their lifespan. Especially the high end gear like Red, Dura-ace, Record… the stuff is designed to be used. Unless you are riding 10,000 miles a season, you will most likely never wear this stuff out. The chain, however, will obviously need to be replaced eventually. If the rollers are not sagging on the chain, if it is fairly quiet when you ride, and if it is not missing shifts. Ride it and forget it.
If you were at 5-6000 miles, I would say replace it regardless if it still seems ok, mainly because chains are not a ton of money.
I currently have a Sram Red chain on my road bike, that gets most of my miles, and I am sure it has a few thousand miles and I am not even close to worrying about it yet.
There is one effect / phenomena that got me thinking about this. When I pedal, and I notice it more on my right side, there is a feeling that something is loose or clicking. When I grab my pedals they seem fine.
I thought maybe it was my rear wheel on the trainer?
I also think maybe my pedals are wearing out? I guess that is another discussion.
To this day haven’t been able to point it out. Its not a noise. I can just feel it from my foot.
There is one effect / phenomena that got me thinking about this. When I pedal, and I notice it more on my right side, there is a feeling that something is loose or clicking. When I grab my pedals they seem fine.
I thought maybe it was my rear wheel on the trainer?
I also think maybe my pedals are wearing out? I guess that is another discussion.
To this day haven’t been able to point it out. Its not a noise. I can just feel it from my foot.
I am not sure what crank you have… but, it could be a loose crank arm. FSA carbon cranks were known to come loose. Especially if you feel it at the dead spots of the pedal stroke, like the top and bottom. It could also be a loose bottom bracket, but that often leads to a squeak as well. Your pedal cleats could be loose, check the screws. It could also be old cleats if your pedals do not wiggle side to side and are snug in the crank (pedals do not need to be ultra-tight).
If your chain is making noise, it could also just be a tension adjustment from the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur.
Thanks. Its a Quarq. I had my LBS take it out and reinstall from BB.
Maybe it is a loose cleat. Will check that. I thought maybe it was the pedal, but he removed and put back the pedals as well.
There is no significant noise either.
I’ve only been cycling about a year, so what I know is limited as well.
I’ve put about 3000 miles on my chain. I believe its an Ultegra. 2011 Cervelo P2. I have two Park Tool chain checkers, and it doesn’t read .75 yet with one, but the other does. I think I might be doing it incorrectly?
When you check, do you check in a few spots or just one is fine?
Is it about time to replace the chain?
Macca said in a podcast every 1000k
I always do mine before a major race unless they are close to each other.
My roadie has a thing where I can split the chain and I clean it well after riding in the wet or in sandy area;s.