Cervelo Soloist as Tri-bike: Report

As some of you know, I had a crash last week in which my Guru trilite was totally destroyed. The owner of my LBS Ian Fraser (sub 10 hour dude at IM LP last year), leant my his Soloist, to hold me over until I get a replacement ride. Back in 1996, Ian Fraser was the first Profressional Triathlete sponsored by Cervelo, riding their original P2, to victories in Muskoka etc (www.cyclelogik.com).

First of all, let me share some specs from my Guru.

I ride a 51, with the nose of my saddle 2.5 cm ahead of my BB with a saddle height of 68.5 cm from centre off BB to top of saddle. If you do the theta = arcsin(12/68.5) on this you get a seat angle of 79 degrees (where 12 is half the length of saddle minus distance ahead of BB).

My “reach” is 48 cm from the nose of the saddle to the centre of the base bar clamp on my stem.

I had a 10 cm drop from nose of saddle to top of aero pad. Finally, the rear centre on the trilite was 39.5 cm. On the Soloist it is 39.9 cm, which is pretty tight of a road bike and actually tighter than many tribikes including some with poorly designed cutouts.

I got the Soloist and tried to set it up the same way as the Guru trilite. I had a couple of problems. The fork was cut to a minimal height, so I had to go with almost 13 cm of drop. The Front centre of the Soloist is 2 cm shorter than the trilite, so the front end is “tighter” especially when riding aero. Ideally, I would need a 13 cm long stem rather than the 11 cm stem that I had.

I expected that the bike would handle somewhat “squirrly” with the seat that far forward (79 degrees) on a bike designed around a 73 angle. I have ridden many road bikes with the seat up beyond 76 and they were scary on corners and downhills.

Anyway, with the Soloist this was not the case. I used it to climb Whiteface Mtn in Lake Placid (13 K, 3600 ft of climbing) and it worked great with some treaks (initially had the nose down and levelled it off which worked better). As a point of reference for some reason, I tend to climb quicker when I ride slightly steep. 79 degrees is good for tris, but for a one hour sustained climb, I would likely go more like 76 which is what I did when riding the likes of Alpe d’Huez and Ventoux last summer.

On the descents, over 80 kph the Soloist handled solid as a rock. I had full confidence with the bike. It felt like an extension of my body. I was absolutely amazed by how well it handed road vibration, especially with the seat jacked that far forward. All I can attribute this to is the circular stays which from an engineering perspective are a good shape to deal with axial loads. Riding on the flats, I could ride right though potholes without feeling like I would launch my body over the bars.

This is the first Road bike in my 18 years of riding with aerobars that still handles properly when ridden at >76 degrees.

I am stongly considering getting a Soloist as a replacement bike, mainly cause it works as a tri bike, but then I could also set it up a bit slacker as a road bike the next time I go riding in the Alpes in Europe :-).

I would like to get the other comments from Soloist owners.

Being an engineer that does technical marketing myself, I tend to take any marketing claims with a grain of salt, even from someone as credible as Gerard :-). In this case, I bow to the master Vroomen himself. This bike is a technical miracle of sorts. How does this road bike handle so well as a tri bike with so little road shock from an aluminium bike.

I have to strongly reconsider my thoughts of dropping lots of coin to upgrade to a carbon tri bike.

On that note I have a question from P2K and P3 owners. How do those bikes handle road shock ? While I am leaning towards a Soloist, I am also entertaining the P2K or P3. If they have a sweet ride like the Soloist, coupled with the 36.6 cm seat stay, then they could be an option. Something tells me the shorter 36.6 stay means more road vibration (ie shorter lever).

I have both p2k and the Soloist. they are not kitted out identically (tires, bars etc are all different even wheel size 650v700) But I find the P2k “smoother” and I have put in a lot of kms on both bikes. Cant really go wrong with either bike.

You are taller than I am (87cm from center of crank to top of seat) but I must have really long torso as I ride a 54 Soloist with a 13cm stem and seat 7 cm behind the BB. With no spacers and a 5degree riser stem Also ride a 54 P2k as well.

I have never ridden the Soloist in forward position so cant comment. But when I tried moving the seat to the maximum forward position allowed by the UCI, it did not work for me. I suspect would need a lower stem.

"P2K and P3 owners. How do those bikes handle road shock "

The P2k is noticeably harsher than my new road bike, but not surprising since I’m on a steel/carbon Lemond w/Reynolds Ouzo Pro fork. I’ll say that the P2K is about like my aluminium Giant TCR. I haven’t logged enough miles on a Soloist to make a comparison.

Bump.

I am trying to get some feedback from current owners of Soloists using them in >76 degree angle as well as P2K and P3 owners using then in steep config. Ideally, I want to hear from guys using 700 wheels as going to 650 changes things on the shock and vibration front.

Any input is appreciated.

Dev

Quite frankly, if you’re planning on riding >76 degrees most of the time, the P2k should be your only choice.

The beauty of the Soloist is that it is a road bike with the capability of some forward adjustability and handling for TT’s. It doesn’t mean that it performs equally well to the P2k in this regard.

Good point. I’d be riding >76 degrees 95% of the time, with the odd vacation where I will ride in road mode.

I like the Soloist quite a bit - I sold my P2K for one after I quit triathlons.

I really like the concept of being able to switch from road to tri with one bike - but in reality, it doesn’t work for me. I’m a chronic fiddler and adjuster…the stem height, the saddle tilt, the rail position, the seat height, the handlebar tilt, etc, etc, etc. Once I finally got it right, I lock it down, mark it off, and never, ever, ever want to deviate from it again.

When changing all these things for a TT in the forward positon on the soloist, I can never get all these things on the bike perfectly back to where I had it originally, and life consists of pulling over on training rides for the next month fiddling over and over again.

So if you’re borderline psychotic about bike feel never changing, you really need both a dedicated road and tri machine.

Good point. I’d be riding >76 degrees 95% of the time, with the odd vacation where I will ride in road mode.

Vek, that would be me. It usually takes me a month to dial a bike in and I am constantly fiddling with various items. This is why I was amazed that I could dial the Soloist in withing a few rides.

I think the secret is to have two posts, one forward and one slack and two stems. I don’t think you want to mess with jacking the seat forward and back constantly. Just getting the saddle tilt dialed in is a fine art and not a science that you can replicate repeatably.

When changing all these things for a TT in the forward positon on the soloist, I can never get all these things on the bike perfectly back to where I had it originally, and life consists of pulling over on training rides for the next month fiddling over and over again.

My experience too. The simple solution is to buy another seat post head and have a seat set up fro tris, but even then I find I need to change the front end, so I have basically given up moving the seat forward and just ride on the nose for TT. Different story for an IM race though.

Yup, even with a spare seatpost and seat, as you mentioned, the insertion mark never seems to feel quite the same, and the front end has to be fiddled with. Its not a big issue to most, I’m sure. Similar to you, I’ve just taking to riding on the end of the saddle for the relatively short TT’s I do, with a set of Syntace XXS’s bolted down on the drops. No complaints at all.
My experience too. The simple solution is to buy another seat post head and have a seat set up fro tris, but even then I find I need to change the front end, so I have basically given up moving the seat forward and just ride on the nose for TT. Different story for an IM race though.

Just getting the saddle tilt dialed in is a fine art
Yup and from experience set post adjustment is the single most annoying aspect of owning a Cervelo. Anytime anyone complains about creaking seat or seat post, one of the first things I tell them to look at is how they clamped the seat to the post head - the interaction between the nut and the screw.

Hi,

I have a soloist set up in the tri-config as I have long legs/short torso and a p2k wouldn’t work for me. I have found it very solid going downhill and up and can’t really imagine being much happier with it than I am. (Although, it is a little hard to discern between the bike being fast going uphill and a lot of triathletes just stopping when they hit a hill) Definitely two thumbs up.

KDW

I guess I am in a similar boat (long legs and long arms but short torso) for my height, so this actually helps the overall fit. I could still likely go with a slightly longer stem (120 or 130 mm vs the current 110)

Hey Dev

Hope the jerk that hit you is going to be hung out to dry with your insurance claim. Wasn’t your bike that he totalled the new Guru Chrono carbon model??? :slight_smile:

I have a friend that is doing Lake Placid that took delivery of a P3SL this spring. He is a big guy and just loves the bike. He comments on how much better the fit and ride is than on his old bike (an aluminum Trek with road geometry so no wonder his tri position feels better). I’d be looking at the P2KSL or P3SL if Cervelo is on your short list (and since you’ll be out of my age group by the time you take delivery!) so I won’t have to contend with your new blazing bike splits :slight_smile: If you can hose the jerk for big insurance money I’d be tempted by the Guru aero ti :slight_smile:

See you in Peterborough

I’m also in the long leg, short torso department. The soloist fits me well for a tri bike. I’m currently looking to get the stuff to set it up in a road position…ie seat post, and a shorter/taller stem. The drop bars and sti will remain the same between the 2 setups. I’m looking forward to having the capabiliity of having 2 setups…but I’m not overly fussy. I’d imagine the tri setup will be a little more ideal than the eventual road setup…but hopefull both will be very nice.

FWIW - I’m in tri-bike limbo as my race steed is sold and perhaps not going to be replaced until next year…with several Oly/IMs coming up soon.

My 54cm Soloist is my road race bike. (I’m 5’11", 32cm inseam)

However, I’ve transformed it into a darn good tri bike.

Road bike - 76cm seat height, 7.5cm behind bb, 120mm stem w/5 degrees of rise.

Tri bike - 76cm seat height, 2.75cm behind bb, 100mm stem w/-5 degree and aerobars.

Caveot - you are MUCH better off buying (2) seat clamps as you need LOTS of torque and too risky to keep messing with the bolt.

I’ll take pictures in the next transformation…

Since 2.75cm back isn’t very steep, I can’t comment on the rideabliliy. It’s a very comfy ride as far as I’m concerned…

"P2K and P3 owners. How do those bikes handle road shock "

The P2k is noticeably harsher than my new road bike, but not surprising since I’m on a steel/carbon Lemond w/Reynolds Ouzo Pro fork. I’ll say that the P2K is about like my aluminium Giant TCR. I haven’t logged enough miles on a Soloist to make a comparison.

I am currently building a P2SL–purchased the frameset a little over a week ago–and ride a carbon/steel Lemond road bike w/ carbon fork as well. I’m wondering if you could elaborate on the “noticeably harsher” feel of your P2k? You mention it feels like your alumn bike so are you saying it rattles your teeth :wink: or are you referring to handling?

Thanks for any feedback.

Rob

Thanks for the report, Dev. The Soloist is high on my list of bikes…particularly the upcoming carbon version…I’m really into the ability to dual role, since that means I can have solid road AND TT setups on ONE bike. That is a requirement for me, being in the military, and often limited in the amount of equipment I can drag around the world with me. My current Talon SL is getting close to its handling acceptability limits in its current full-on TT setup at 77.25 deg. Its seatstays are 1.2cm longer than the Soloist’s…

“particularly the upcoming carbon version”

eeeeek!

I call for a ST ban on carbon-versioned older brothers until manufacturers start providing compliance data to support the “upgrade” marketing hype…

Don’t get me wrong, it’s a sexy MF bike though.

“Don’t get me wrong, it’s a sexy MF bike though”

Which is pretty much my only justification for preferring the carbon version to its aluminum sibling. A few hundred grams and some arguable vibration damping are not enough to sell me, and apparently not you either. The aluminum original is a damn fine bike…

But sometimes it really is just about the drool factor…if I have the $$$, that’s what I’m going to buy.