Will it make a difference?
Also, going to change size from a 58cm to a 61cm. Comments on the size change?
No techie, but I’d assume minor gain regarding aero dynamics.
From alu to carb, more comfort on longer rides?
Can hold about 1:05 on 40km bike leg. Should I expect any time gains, if any?
Weight and height: 84kg at 195cm (not sure if it would be relevant).
Looking forward to a some typical ST remarks as well 
1.95cm tall eh? Sounds like you might need the 63mm size P2.
1.95cm tall eh? Sounds like you might need the 63mm size P2.
63mm might be a bit small. Try again. Next.
1.95cm tall? boy you are dense!
no wonder you can go so fast!
it seems odd to go from a a smaller road bike to a bigger sized tri bike. was the soloist very small for you?
FWIW i would ride a 51 P2 and would fit a 51-54 soloist.
the vast majority of the advantage of the P2 over a soloist would be the ability to get the handlebars low enough. If your handlebars aren’t as low as you would like them to be on your current soloist then a P2 would be beneficial. Beyond that, for people who are really big, frame aerodynamics makes a relatively small impact on their overall performance.
no wonder you can go so fast!
1:05 (incl T1+T2) is slow but that is where I’m at for now.
My inseam is 92cm and the 58cm Soloist is flexing a lot. Most of the flex could be due to the lengthy seatpost.
Based on inseam, most calculators tell me that 61cm is the right size, some even recommend 63cm.
So based on your post, there would be minimal gain in upgrading? Would increased stiffness not result in a better time?
Last year I upgraded from a 2006 Soloist Team to a 2008 P2C. I really like both bikes but I agree on getting lower on the P2C, plus I find it more comfortable. P2C I think is more stable in the aero position and a bit faster. Fastest Olympic on the Soloist was an average of 21 mph, last year I averaged 21.8 on my P2C in a bad Olympic event and 22.8 at a 70.3. Lots of variables and better conditioning, but to me there’s no question on which I prefer riding.
It is going to make a nice difference.
Aerodynamically fro the frame alone you will pick up a little speed
But the biggest thing will be that you can get lower, or get more comfortable and better handling at the level of lowness you are at now.
You will love it =)
Will it make a difference?
Also, going to change size from a 58cm to a 61cm. Comments on the size change?
No techie, but I’d assume minor gain regarding aero dynamics.
From alu to carb, more comfort on longer rides?
Can hold about 1:05 on 40km bike leg. Should I expect any time gains, if any?
Weight and height: 84kg at 195cm (not sure if it would be relevant).
Looking forward to a some typical ST remarks as well
“But the biggest thing will be that you can get lower, or get more comfortable and better handling at the level of lowness you are at now.”
How is he going to get lower?
58 Soloist
Head tube: 180
Stack: 580
Reach: 403
61 P2
HT: 190
Stack: 577
Reach: 447
(the soloist has a BB drop of 68 compared to 60 for the P2)
Given the difference in reach, at least one of the bikes is not a great fit for him. Whichever one fits better is going to be the better option.
Its not a question of head tube height
its a question of his hip angle and bike handling as her gets steeper. the P2 wheelbase is different.
edit: I guess you are right about though given the size change…unless the soloist is WAY too small for him now, going to a bigger P2 doesn’t make sense.
regardless, a properly fit p2 will handle better when nice and aero than a properly fit soloist
“But the biggest thing will be that you can get lower, or get more comfortable and better handling at the level of lowness you are at now.”
How is he going to get lower?
58 Soloist
Head tube: 180
Stack: 580
Reach: 403
61 P2
HT: 190
Stack: 577
Reach: 447
(the soloist has a BB drop of 68 compared to 60 for the P2)
Given the difference in reach, at least one of the bikes is not a great fit for him. Whichever one fits better is going to be the better option.
Will it make a difference?
Also, going to change size from a 58cm to a 61cm. Comments on the size change?
No techie, but I’d assume minor gain regarding aero dynamics.
From alu to carb, more comfort on longer rides?
Can hold about 1:05 on 40km bike leg. Should I expect any time gains, if any?
Weight and height: 84kg at 195cm (not sure if it would be relevant).
Looking forward to a some typical ST remarks as well
Time gains? Well…assuming ALL OTHER THINGS ARE EQUAL (i.e. position, equipment, etc.), then based on my testing of a P3C (VERY close to P2 drag) vs. a P2K (VERY close to Alu Soloist drag) I’d conservatively ballpark the time gains as 1-2s per km.
if you are looking to completely replicate your current position on a P2 then i think the gains would be minimal, probably 45s-1min over 40km at best.
if you are looking to get lower with a P2 then there can be bigger speed gains to be had.
As someone else posted, the stacks of the 58 soloist and 61 P2 are essentially identical so you won’t be able to get a lower position, BUT there is a 4cm difference in reach so if you feel scrunched up now then a P2 might help. If you don’t then a 61cm P2 would be too big for you. Always choose your frame size based on reach first and stack second. There are relatively easy ways to get around stack without affecting the bike’s handling but not the other way around.
All big bikes are going to feel flexy especially if you have a long seatpost sticking out. Having said that, the carbon Cervelos are slightly stiffer in the BB than the aluminium ones, and a P2 with a horizontal top tube will allow you to have less seatpost showing and less flex if the flex is indeed from your seatpost. The evidence in favour of stiffness is a whole can of worms i don’t want to touch but personally i would sacrifice stiffness for a bit more comfort as i think more comfort allows you to hold a more radical aero position for longer and will be faster overall.
Are you using a carbon seatpost or alu seatpost on your soloist by the way? If it’s carbon it may be worth trying out an aluminium 2-position cervelo seatpost to see if the flex goes away. Much much cheaper than upgrading the frame.
if you are looking to completely replicate your current position on a P2 then i think the gains would be minimal, probably 45s-1min over 40km at best.
You call that minimal?? I’ll take it!
re…hi…hi…hi…hi… eallyyyyy…
then why are you still on your soloist? where’s the P2/3/4C? and don’t tell me an engineer can’t afford one 
Anyway it’s significant to you and i, but i just did not want the OP to think he was going to break the hour mark just by changing frames alone.
re…hi…hi…hi…hi… eallyyyyy…
then why are you still on your soloist? where’s the P2/3/4C? and don’t tell me an engineer can’t afford one
Anyway it’s significant to you and i, but i just did not want the OP to think he was going to break the hour mark just by changing frames alone.
I’m not on the Soloist for TTs…that’s a P2K. The Soloist is purely for “road duty”
Besides…yes, I’m an “engineer”, but I’m also married, with 2 children, and live in one of the highest cost of living areas of the country (i.e. read “large mortgage”)…so, having the extra cash to upgrade a TT frame isn’t exactly a high priority.
Also, being the “CheapAssEngineer^TM” as well, I decided this year to see if I could work at making my drag on the P2K the same as what it was last year when I borrowed the P3C. With the addition of some 100K bars and a Jet 90 front wheel, I’m getting awfully close
I’m also thinking that if the frame upgrade DOES eventually happen, it’ll probably be a Transition since I happen to ride for a team sponsored by the big “S”
hmm i seem to recall you posting a pic of the soloist with the seatpost in the forward configuration at one point with a TT handlebar set-up (in front of a garage). oh well…
can you actually get low enough on the Specialized? i keep looking at the stack numbers and it just doesn’t work for me.
hmm i seem to recall you posting a pic of the soloist with the seatpost in the forward configuration at one point with a TT handlebar set-up (in front of a garage). oh well…
can you actually get low enough on the Specialized? i keep looking at the stack numbers and it just doesn’t work for me.
Well…I used to TT on the Soloist, but not since 2 years ago…
I’m pretty sure I can get low enough on a medium Transition…but, reach-wise, I might contemplate a large…but, that might require some “creativity” with the stem and front brake cable housing stop…
Anyway it’s significant to you and i, but i just did not want the OP to think he was going to break the hour mark just by changing frames alone.
Didn’t say I was looking to buy a frameset to get me under an hour so don’t worry too much about what I’m thinking.
Just wanted to know what the gains/benefits would be, if any. 1min would be awesome.
What is the best way to decide/measure whether reach is right/short/long? Probably some formula based on torso and arm length?
I currently have a 100 stem on the Soloist and I’m not feeling cramped.