I thought I would post my new Cervelo P2 setup for anyone who is trying to do something similar. My recent broken shoulder has given me a little time to play around with my new aerobars. I learned a lot from other posts here on ST. Here’s the build, routing, and photos. Feel free to ask questions. Thanks!
-Pete
Zipp Vuka Stealth Aerobar Setup
Shimano Ultegra R671 Di2 bar end shifters
Shimano 9071 Di2 brake levers/shifters
2x Shimano SM-JC41 internal junction boxes (stuffed inside base bar)
2x E-Tube wires to connect the to bar end shifters to internal junction boxes
1x E-Tube wire to connect the to internal junction boxes together
Bike Setup
Shimano Ultegra 6870 front derailleur
Shimano Ultegra 6870 rear derailleur
1x Shimano SM-JC41 internal junction box (stuffed inside seat tube by bottom bracket)
1x E-Tube wire to connect junction box from base bar to seat tube port
Seat Tube/Post Setup
Shimano EWW01 D-Fly
Shimano SM-BTR2 internal battery
Shimano SM-SW90B 5-port external junction box
1x Shimano SM-JC41 internal junction box
1x E-Tube wire from internal junction box to one near bottom bracket
1x E-Tube wire to connect battery to internal junction box
1x E-Tube wire to connect D-Fly to internal junction box
1x E-Tube wire to connect D-Fly to external junction box
Both the front brake cable and Di2 wire are routed through the bottom hole in the base bar.
I was able to route the rear brake housing through the inside of the top tube. I just had to drill out the plastic cable ports by the steerer and seat post. Pushing the cable through took a bit of effort and trial-and-error, but the rear brake feels good.
I had to drill one hole in the seat post for the E-Tube wire. I’ve mounted the external junction box with zip ties to the seat rails. I really don’t need rear hydration this time of year, but zip ties are easy to remove and I can reposition the junction box when needed.
If I really had the spare time, I would draw up a schematic, but tried to provide an accurate overview of the parts needed. I hope this helps!
Sorry to wake this old thread but I’m looking to clean up the di2 setup on my Vuka stealth but your picture links don’t work anymore. Could you update this or send me the pics? I’d like to get this fixed up before the end of the year. Thanks!
I don’t have any photos of the actual build. Running the Di2 cables was actually easier than you might think. The junction boxes weren’t that hard to fit into the base bar. You of course have to do it with without the bars mounted to the bike. The biggest challenge on this bike was trying to run the rear brake cable. Got it, but it just took some time. Also, I turn the front completely to the left and right.
Thanks for updating the pictures. I love it all except the external box coming out at the seat. What about this port? Did you consider this at all and decide not to use it? I’m just curious if this would fit in the hole on the bottom bracket and connect everything and still have the option to charge easily. Appreciate your thoughts.
Are you using an external Di2 battery or internal? The only time I’ve used the junction box you should is on an older 6770 series road bike with an external battery. The reason I use that 5 port junction box (I already had it) is so that I don’t need to remove the seatpost to charge the internal battery.
Yeah I have the internal battery so you’re saying I can only use either the 3 port or 5 port external box with that battery?
So could I use a JC41 to connect both left side shifters, another JC41 to connect both right side shifters and then run two wires from there to the bottom bracket to plug into a 3 port external box (since it would fit in there) and all the shifters still work (both base bar and extensions)?
Yeah I have the internal battery so you’re saying I can only use either the 3 port or 5 port external box with that battery?
So could I use a JC41 to connect both left side shifters, another JC41 to connect both right side shifters and then run two wires from there to the bottom bracket to plug into a 3 port external box (since it would fit in there) and all the shifters still work (both base bar and extensions)?
I love all this creativity but damn, eTap is just so much easier.
Basically yes. I have two 4-ports in the base bar to connect everything there. One wire runs down to the bottom bracket where I have another 4 port to connect the FD/RD/Battery wire. The 3-port external connects that wire and the battery.
Yeah I have the internal battery so you’re saying I can only use either the 3 port or 5 port external box with that battery?
So could I use a JC41 to connect both left side shifters, another JC41 to connect both right side shifters and then run two wires from there to the bottom bracket to plug into a 3 port external box (since it would fit in there) and all the shifters still work (both base bar and extensions)?
I love all this creativity but damn, eTap is just so much easier.
Where would you hide the Blip Box on the OP’s build?
Yeah I have the internal battery so you’re saying I can only use either the 3 port or 5 port external box with that battery?
So could I use a JC41 to connect both left side shifters, another JC41 to connect both right side shifters and then run two wires from there to the bottom bracket to plug into a 3 port external box (since it would fit in there) and all the shifters still work (both base bar and extensions)?
I love all this creativity but damn, eTap is just so much easier.
Where would you hide the Blip Box on the OP’s build?
