Cervelo NP3 "Super Bike" on a "budget"

I spent quite a bit of time building up this bike, well at least thinking about the build. I was between two bikes, this and the Scott Plasma Premium. I came across a deal on the 3T Aduro Bars and couldn’t pass it up. I knew they would work great on the NP3 so I ended up going with the NP3. I was going to go with the Tririg bar as an alternate. I was previously on a 2008 P3. I was waiting to sell that bike and my older road bike before making the purchase. It started pushing later and later into the season before they sold, but once they did the bike build started. It was finished on a Wednesday and I raced it that Saturday at Galveston 70.3. Luckily my fitter, David Wenger of Durata Training in Austin had to make very minimal adjustments to the fit. Big thanks to JackMott for his input on the build!

http://i62.tinypic.com/kcx8uc.jpg

http://i58.tinypic.com/2a4wzux.jpg

The Build:
Frame- 2014 Cervelo NP3 Size 56
Gruppo- Ultegra Electronic 11spd Shifters, Front Derailleur, Seat Tube Battery, Junction Box, and 10spd Rear Derailleur
Brakes- TriRig
Powermeter- Quarq with 172.5mm Cranks
Bike Computer- Garmin Edge 510
Race Wheels- HED JET Disc / JET 9 w/ Continental Force/Attack & Conti Butyl Tubes w/ Orange Seal
Race Skewers- View Speed Skewers
Training Wheels: HED Ardennes
Saddle- ISM Attack (spare tube goes under saddle, not pictured due to flatting yesterday and haven’t put a new one back there)
Cockpit- 3T Aduro Bars off of P5
– Bar Tape- Arundel Bar Tape on Extensions and 3M “Grip” tape on the drops
Bento Box- Dark Speed Works (Inside is small pump, CO2 Adapter, CO2 canister, Valve Extender, quick chain master link, Shimano 5 Port junction box, View Speed tool kit, and on race day 2 Honey Stinger bars)
Bottle Cages- Arundel Mandible
Pedals- Time iClic
Shoes- Specialized S-Works

http://i58.tinypic.com/dnha95.jpg
Bike Fitter- David Wenger of Durata Training

More Pictures can be found here: https://www.dropbox.com/...EqXxUkl9oUq_hbdNqYKa

Awesome build. Probably won’t be many like it given then Aduro bars.

Maybe I missed it, but didn’t see the size on there. 56?

Yeah, 56 just edited it with it on there.

Great looking ride! Was your old P3 a 56 as well? I ride the same 2008 P3 in a size 54 that is borderline too small for me and have wondered how well the NP3 would compare.

Nice touch with the TRS sticker on the rear wheel. :slight_smile:

Brad - Doubling the question above… I’m on a 54 2010 P3 and am moving to a NP3. Were you on the same 56 size on your older P3? I know the geometry is different, and wondering about sizing issues.

Just measure your armpad stack and reach on current bike and translate that to…any…other bike…

I was on a classic p3 56 with no spacers and a -7 80mm stem. I am on a P5-6 54 with 10mm of spacers and the most reach. It was easy to translate the fit once you established the pad stack and reach.

I was on a 56 2008 P3. As James said, just measure the stack and reach on your current frame and go from there. I was in between the 56 and 54, but ended up going with the 56. I had quite a few spacers under the bar on the old P3. See picture below for reference of old position.

http://i58.tinypic.com/2ci8bys.jpg

I love the way you put “budget” in quotes as I would never call a bike with Di2 and race wheels a “budget bike”!

Sweet looking rig though.

Was waiting for someone to call me out on that. I already had the quarq and race wheels and saddle. I say budget because for the bike to $$ spent I think it is really good.

Where did you hide the junction box?

Also, is the battery still external or did you mount it internally somehow?

Thanks

All information is in original post. Thanks

Well not really but thanks anyways.

Love the sticker on the bottom of the disc wheel.

Look under bento box- “Shimano 5 port junction box” Gruppo- Seat post battery.

No latex tubes on your race wheels?

You must be running Butyl and sealant for a good reason, and it you used your spare I might not fully understand that reason.

Sealant works but metal punctured and stayed all the way through tire and I couldn’t pull it out. So it just kept puncturing. If it punctures and comes out or is stuck in tire and you can pull out it out works great. And just think I run butyl and go fast ;). I may switch to latex next time I flat on race wheels, but knock on wood that hasn’t happened.

Sealant works but metal punctured and stayed all the way through tire and I couldn’t pull it out. So it just kept puncturing. If it punctures and comes out or is stuck in tire and you can pull out it out works great. And just think I run butyl and go fast ;). I may switch to latex next time I flat on race wheels, but knock on wood that hasn’t happened.

No one called you slow, we’re just wondering why you’re down with losing 1s/km on account of $30and 15 min of install time for tubes. :wink:

Haha yeah…Is there published data anywhere on all the latex tubes vs. Butyl??

Yeah, It’s been confirmed by all of the guys doing CRR testing at home (Tom A.) and Josh Poertner mentioned it in a recent interview.

And just think I run butyl and go fast ;).

With that logic you might be ready for your pro card after all.