I know everyone says the soloist can be configured to serve as a Tri or TT bike. Why can’t the Dual do the same? I would assume you could flip the seatpost around and slide the seat back a little. It should get you close to 73*. However, I have read in other threads that it i snot feasible and was wondering why the Soloist is instead. You would still have to slide the seat forward to get 78* and if it holds true like other road bikes, should behave pretty squirrely. So, why not install drop bars, STI shifters, and clip ons on a Dual and use it for both like the soloist? I apologize if this has been beaten to death, was just curious…
I am in the same boat, I can afford only one new bike. I like the 2004/05 Dual will it work for both? Is the 2006 any better should I wait? I like both bikes but do a few Tri’s each year. Looking to go longer next year though.
Rick
I’m not going to be of much help, but my gf got a 2003 Dual and loves it. She got fitted in the tri position and pretty much has to leave it there. The bike justs doesn’t fit her frame/body type in the road position. I wish i could remember the exact issue, but all i know is that when they just couldn’t get it dialed in correctly regardless of what they tried. I am in no way saying it is Cervelo’s fault, just the way it worked out. She rides it as a road bike in the tri setup without the bars all the time and doesn’t seem to mind (except when heading to mountains for some climbs). Her tri setup is not too aggressive, so it works as a road setup pretty well. it is a damn sweet ride–the component upgrades are have been getting better and better with this bike.
Just a question? Why would you want to use a tri bike for roadie-type biking?
I think if you are going to use this thing like a road bike you need to buy a road bike.
I am in a situation that the roadies allow me to ride with bar end shifters. Having said that out of respect for the fact that they allow me I don’t use the aerobars. Some groups do not allow aerobars of any kind and 25% of my riding is with this group. So 75% is triathlon training including bricks. My old steel with very fwd seatpost and aerobars is comfortable for 2.5-3 hours only occationally with me sitting up to stretch or look around. I like being aero for long periods of time and the shifters being there are very convenient.
I may be able to get a good deal on a dual which is why I ask
Rick
Well for your purposes I would think buying the Dual would make some sense. It was hard for me to follow how you have bar end shifters without aerobars…
But for bigkidneys, I think he needs to determine what type of riding he’ll be doing. That should determine what type of bike he needs. Maybe not what type of bike he gets, but what he needs.
Bigkidneys, have you consulted a local retailer?
Actually, they could probably do the same. It would just be a lot harder to configure. I’m currently riding a Soloist as a dedicated TT bike with bar-end shifters at probably a 78* STA. The only thing is, I’m using a 120mm stem, with almost no rise and it is neither long enough nor low enough for me optimally. Not squirrely at all for me, either. If I were to reproduce the position on a Dual, I would maintain the STA, but probably have to switch to a 90mm stem to get to my optimal position. The main difference between the two models is the reach.
Now, say you wanted to get a Dual in a road position. First, you’d probably have to go a size down. Otherwise, with a certain slack STA, you might end up needing a 70mm stem. So, you’ll have to be aware of the top tube length at slack angles to be able to run the Dual in a road configuration.
If it is set up as a triathlon bike and you want to take off the aerobars and switch the seat post head around, why would you go to a shorter stem. A triathlon bike is set up for a shorter cockpit and a road bike would have a longer cockpit. So if you switch the seat around you are getting a longer cockpit right. You would not go shorter with the stem for the road.
I do not agree with what you are saying. I can see wanting to be higher in the front for more comfort but not shorter. What I did for a long time was use my Dual for both.
Tri set-up - Stem in lower position, seat clamp in forward position.
Road set-up - Stem in a higher position, seat clamp in layback position.
I bought an extra seat clamp from Cervelo, had an extra seat and would just switch them out.
I suppose it depends on how much you move the seat. My road position is about a 72* STA, while my TT position is about a 78* STA. While, the differences between the stems on the two bikes are “only” 30mm. If I were to switch to a properly sized Dual with say a 100mm stem for the 78* position, switching to my road position would still involve the front end going back 30mm. And there aren’t a whole lot of 70mm stems out there. But this is probably a bit more of an extreme example since my saddle moves 5-6 cms between the two positions. So, even though I am increasing my cockpit by 2cm, the stem still gets shorter switching to the road position with the same sized frames. Another thing, I am pretty flexible and have my drop bars and aerobars as low as my equipment can get them and they are pretty much both at the same height from the ground. For me, it’s more about achieving a comfortable lenght.
It really just depends on how much of a difference there is between the two positions.
"Now, say you wanted to get a Dual in a road position. First, you’d probably have to go a size down. Otherwise, with a certain slack STA, you might end up needing a 70mm stem. So, you’ll have to be aware of the top tube length at slack angles to be able to run the Dual in a road configuration. "
The price is right it is the technical information that I needed!
Thanks I will be cautious about the length of the top tube in case I might try a road race in th enext few years.
Rick
Well for your purposes I would think buying the Dual would make some sense. It was hard for me to follow how you have bar end shifters without aerobars…
But for bigkidneys, I think he needs to determine what type of riding he’ll be doing. That should determine what type of bike he needs. Maybe not what type of bike he gets, but what he needs.
Bigkidneys, have you consulted a local retailer?
I am thinking of trying to convert my 2004 Dual to road use. It’s a 56 and my current road bike is a 90’s C-Dale 60cm.
I’d like to hear other opinions on this.
I think Anonymo0_8 has hit the nail on the head. I’ve said it before and I will say it again. A Dual is for triathlon geometry…ONLY. A Soloist is for road geometry AND tri geometry.
Why wouldn’t you purchase a P2K and put drop bars on it instead of the Dual? Probably b/c of the price difference. Which seems to be the issue at hand between the Dual and Soloist as the Dual is less expensive.
Well let me tell you something. The parts it will take to reconfigure the Dual with drop bars, new shifters, bar tape, labor etc will probably make up that difference.
Irregardless, folks, they are different bikes. The Soloist is going to be more comfortable when riding with drop bars up hills, around corners, etc. This is why I changed from a tri specific bike to a road bike (a Soloist) myself.
Bigkidneys, buy what you need.
Thanks for everyones input. I purchased a 2005 dual 9 at T.I. Cycle (price was what I could afford)
After a long chat and primary fitting it became clear that my main interest is in triathlons. (Want to go road racing buy a road bike) So a tri specific bike was the better choice. What a difference!!! My old steel bike (upgraded to ultegra 9 spd) seemed to resist going over 40k this thing just keeps asking for more.
Rick