i wrote a front page article on the current Slice. if you’re thinking about getting this bike, and you read in that article about how to figure out the exact bike in the exact configuration you need to fit your position, and you have no idea how to proceed, answer on this thread and i’ll walk you through it.
OK, I will bite. I had an an Old Slice size 51, and now on the New P3 51 which fits more like an old Slice 53. I believe the new Slice 48 is in line with the old Slice 51. Not that i am “that high” but on the NP3, I have only 1 spacer and am using Bonetrager ski bend carbon clip ons. If I go to the new Slice, I think I need a 48. The New Slice 51, although having the same stack as the new P3, might actually be “higher” because the headset cap spacer seems to have more rise. Can you confirm about that spacer? In this case the 48 might be better. It has similar stack and reach to the old Slice 51.
Dev
let’s look how the frames compare:
old slice 51: stack = 49.4, reach = 37.1
new slice 48: stack = 48.7, reach = 37.5
if it’s the same front end on each bike, the length is within 4mm, the height 7mm. if you slapped 7mm more of spacers under the front end, that raises the new 48 up to match the old 51. but that is going to pull the bars back about 2mm, so now you have a front end that is 6mm closer to you. you have to decide if that makes a difference; if you want to get another, longer stem. not a big deal.
i don’t know about the headset top cap, but those are made to be changed. also, when i got my supersix evo it came with what looked like a tall top cap but when i took it off there was a mini top cap, only 5mm or so, underneath. pretty nifty.
comment: with the RS having an adjustable pad stack range of 7cm and adjustable pad reach of 4cm, I never bought into this bike being a difficult bike to fit people to, But rather, it may have been one of the more adjustable super-bikes out there that retained its aerodynamics relatively well.
comment: with the RS having an adjustable pad stack range of 7cm and adjustable pad reach of 4cm, I never bought into this bike being a difficult bike to fit people to, But rather, it may have been one of the more adjustable super-bikes out there that retained its aerodynamics relatively well.
I loved the RS. I have a Slice currently (2012) that I love to death but if I could get an RS I would do it immediately. Waiting to see if Cannondale brings anything to the table for 2016. However you can get plenty low on the last gen Slice with a front end and stem. The current-gen Slice actually looked kind of ugly to me, but it is growing on me.
Dan, thanks for offering this. I am actually eyeing one of these new Slice bikes because of the ease of travel and now being in a country where the ease of getting proprietary parts is near impossible. My old bike was a Trek Speed Concept (Gen1). Long / low stem. Arm Pad reach from Retul fit was 460mm. Handlebar reach was 465mm and handlebar stack was 549mm.
How would I fit on the new Slice?
Hi all
Not been a member for long, but I have been pouring over the articles and forum for months.
I did a Guru bike fit and came up with the following:
HX 523
HY 666
SX 133
SY 786
Saddle thickness - Fizik Tritone (mm): 54
Saddle clamp to nose (mm): 100
Bar length Zipp Vuka (mm): 250
Pad stack height (mm): 60
Crank Length (mm):165
Measured Data (I think these are just measurements the fitter takes, rather than the system)
Saddle Height 864mm
Saddle Incline +2.00
Tip of Saddle Behind 35mm
Tip of Saddle to Centre of Back of Pads 520mm
Top of Saddle to Top of Pads 125mm
Back of Pads to Extensions 365mm
Pad Width 280mm
Pad Angled 55/05
Shifter Width 25mm
One of the bikes that came out of the fitting was a Slice, although the fitters did not have experience of it. But I bought into the Slice story and bought one ( size 60, Stack 567, reach 435). I have taken it apart (intend to replace pretty much everything and convert to Di2) and have bought new Zipp Vuka Bull and Zipp Aero bars, and am just now trying to decide on the best spacer/stem/zipp fore-aft/zipp stack combo. I just can not seem to get numbers to add up sensibly! Any help would be very greatly appreciated.
Thanks very much
Duncan
let’s look how the frames compare:
old slice 51: stack = 49.4, reach = 37.1
new slice 48: stack = 48.7, reach = 37.5
if it’s the same front end on each bike, the length is within 4mm, the height 7mm. if you slapped 7mm more of spacers under the front end, that raises the new 48 up to match the old 51. but that is going to pull the bars back about 2mm, so now you have a front end that is 6mm closer to you. you have to decide if that makes a difference; if you want to get another, longer stem. not a big deal.
i don’t know about the headset top cap, but those are made to be changed. also, when i got my supersix evo it came with what looked like a tall top cap but when i took it off there was a mini top cap, only 5mm or so, underneath. pretty nifty.
If I can take off the top cap the new slice 51 (stack 50.7, reach 39) ends up being similar to the New P3 (50.6, 39.7). Based on your measurements, the old slice 51 and the new slice 48 are pretty well the same, so I would need to decide which end of the spectrum I want to go with (less spacers, shorter stem on the 51, more spacers, longer stem on the 48).
For info, to remove the plastic cover behind the topcap, there is a screw you need to undo from inside the frame, as per pg 13 of this:
http://media.cannondale.com/media//uploads/blog/files/015_Can_Slice_OMS_EN.pdf
Took me a while to figure out.
“with the RS having an adjustable pad stack range of 7cm and adjustable pad reach of 4cm, I never bought into this bike being a difficult bike to fit people to”
the longest reach in a slice RS is 411mm. this is probably 25mm shorter than the next shortest tri bike made. anywhere. so, yes, you can overcome this through just pushing the front end forward. but when you have that much weight cantilevered in front of the steer column is this good?
it doesn’t matter for TT races conforming to the UCI’s rules, because you can’t cantilever the front end way out there. 1.3.023 of the UCI rulebook keeps that from happening. but that’s a stupid rule, and triathlon (smartly) doesn’t have that rule. that allows triathletes to get themselves into a little bit of trouble with this bike.
lowness. yes, you’re right. but making a bike super super low means that if you do pedestal up the pads, the pursuits are staying down there, way low. if that’s okay, if that’s a position that works for you, fine. if not, less fine. so adjustability doesn’t tell the whole story.
“Handlebar reach was 465mm and handlebar stack was 549mm”
the assumption below is based on the EXACT same aerobar configuration on the slice as what was on the fit bike when you were fit. can you verify this? it’s highly likely you were riding a different bar during that fit session. can you let me know? and, what kind of fit bike were you on when you were fit?
I like Cannondale a lot. But I don’t understand their pricing. If you look at the Slice “black” on their website it is priced in the $10k range. I am not sure you could even call that frame a “super-bike” and I don’t understand why it would priced higher than say Felt IA3 or 4, a QR PR6 or others I guess I could name. I have a good friend that rides an older Slice and I would really like to consider one for my next bike, but I don’t understand the pricing. Maybe I am missing something.
i agree. and it’s not a superbike, not if you consider the definition to be one where the whole front of the bike - frame, fork, stem, aerobars - kind of meld into one integrated unit.
i doubt they sell very many of the black inc slices. that’s not the value of this bike. the value is in the $2,500 price range.
For info, to remove the plastic cover behind the topcap, there is a screw you need to undo from inside the frame, as per pg 13 of this:
http://media.cannondale.com/...Can_Slice_OMS_EN.pdf
Took me a while to figure out.
A few questions:
Do you have to remove the plastic cover behind the top cap to remove the top cap?If you do, can you put your stem flush with the top bearing without the stem causing problems with the plastic cover (assume you put the plastic cover back after you remove the top cap)How the heck do you unscrew that screw that holds the plastic cover on from INSIDE the frame. I looked at page 13 and it seems counter intuitive that I can actually get a screwdriver/hex wrench inside the frame to unscrew the screw/bolt in question. Do you have to remove the entire fork and go in from the inside of that cavity from the bottom hole for the fork in the frame head tube?
My guess is you have to drop the forke to access it. Kind of silly way to design that if you ask me
For info, to remove the plastic cover behind the topcap, there is a screw you need to undo from inside the frame, as per pg 13 of this:
http://media.cannondale.com/...Can_Slice_OMS_EN.pdf
Took me a while to figure out.
A few questions:
Do you have to remove the plastic cover behind the top cap to remove the top cap?If you do, can you put your stem flush with the top bearing without the stem causing problems with the plastic cover (assume you put the plastic cover back after you remove the top cap)How the heck do you unscrew that screw that holds the plastic cover on from INSIDE the frame. I looked at page 13 and it seems counter intuitive that I can actually get a screwdriver/hex wrench inside the frame to unscrew the screw/bolt in question. Do you have to remove the entire fork and go in from the inside of that cavity from the bottom hole for the fork in the frame head tube?
- No - top cap removes like normal, and plastic cover stays where it is.
- I can not see how the cover and a normal stem would be compatible without the 25mm top cap spacer. To slam it, you have to remove the plastic cover.
- Take the fork out. Then as you say - from the bottom fork hole, use a long flexible socket extension/screwdriver. Not sure how to do it without that tool (which I happened to have). Good news is you only have to do it once.
For info, to remove the plastic cover behind the topcap, there is a screw you need to undo from inside the frame, as per pg 13 of this:
http://media.cannondale.com/...Can_Slice_OMS_EN.pdf
Took me a while to figure out.
A few questions:
Do you have to remove the plastic cover behind the top cap to remove the top cap?If you do, can you put your stem flush with the top bearing without the stem causing problems with the plastic cover (assume you put the plastic cover back after you remove the top cap)How the heck do you unscrew that screw that holds the plastic cover on from INSIDE the frame. I looked at page 13 and it seems counter intuitive that I can actually get a screwdriver/hex wrench inside the frame to unscrew the screw/bolt in question. Do you have to remove the entire fork and go in from the inside of that cavity from the bottom hole for the fork in the frame head tube?
- No - top cap removes like normal, and plastic cover stays where it is.
- I can not see how the cover and a normal stem would be compatible without the 25mm top cap spacer. To slam it, you have to remove the plastic cover.
- Take the fork out. Then as you say - from the bottom fork hole, use a long flexible socket extension/screwdriver. Not sure how to do it without that tool (which I happened to have). Good news is you only have to do it once.
One more question. Does the plastic cover have any funtion in terms of guiding the wires. for example if you remove the top cap spacer AND the plastic cover and just slammed the stem down to the cartridge bearing (or maybe a really thin spacer), is everything fine that way in terms of wiring? Based on the measurements on the 51 and my current front end, I would need to remove the top cap spacer on the 51, but would be fine on the 48. Then the question is how much reach I want on the 48 and do I need the reach on the 51. Likely the 48 is plenty if I go with a longer stem.
Can anybody tell me if their headset bearings pressed into your 2015 slice frame snug/tight?
Not super tight, but then I don not think my other bikes are either… they stay in place on their own accord, but might fall out with a hit. The cups are tight, but the bearings are just cosy
For info, to remove the plastic cover behind the topcap, there is a screw you need to undo from inside the frame, as per pg 13 of this:
http://media.cannondale.com/...Can_Slice_OMS_EN.pdf
Took me a while to figure out.
A few questions:
Do you have to remove the plastic cover behind the top cap to remove the top cap?If you do, can you put your stem flush with the top bearing without the stem causing problems with the plastic cover (assume you put the plastic cover back after you remove the top cap)How the heck do you unscrew that screw that holds the plastic cover on from INSIDE the frame. I looked at page 13 and it seems counter intuitive that I can actually get a screwdriver/hex wrench inside the frame to unscrew the screw/bolt in question. Do you have to remove the entire fork and go in from the inside of that cavity from the bottom hole for the fork in the frame head tube?
- No - top cap removes like normal, and plastic cover stays where it is.
- I can not see how the cover and a normal stem would be compatible without the 25mm top cap spacer. To slam it, you have to remove the plastic cover.
- Take the fork out. Then as you say - from the bottom fork hole, use a long flexible socket extension/screwdriver. Not sure how to do it without that tool (which I happened to have). Good news is you only have to do it once.
One more question. Does the plastic cover have any funtion in terms of guiding the wires. for example if you remove the top cap spacer AND the plastic cover and just slammed the stem down to the cartridge bearing (or maybe a really thin spacer), is everything fine that way in terms of wiring? Based on the measurements on the 51 and my current front end, I would need to remove the top cap spacer on the 51, but would be fine on the 48. Then the question is how much reach I want on the 48 and do I need the reach on the 51. Likely the 48 is plenty if I go with a longer stem.
Has no function that I can see… other than make the massive top cap a bit more aero. I thin kall of the pro Slices I have seen have removed it. And even the promotional shots show the bike without it… www.cannondale.com/nam_en/slice/photos/ None of the pictures on this page in fact have it. I prefer the look of it without.
Agree not a superbike, but super easy to work on. Much better than my P5-Six I had before, and which I sold for a Slice Black Inc. Am swapping handle bars to the new Alpha X, with low handlebar and high risers, so pretty close to a superbike. Much happier currently with the bike and its handling, and especially weight in comparison to the P5. Only downfall is that my knee is currently ruined with 2015 Season already over and it is looking pretty in my garage. Season 2016 will be more interesting on it.