I just went on a ride on my new speedmax. Need to spend some time tweaking the fit but first I can’t get the front Derailleur to shift. Rear is fine but front won’t do anything. (Note: it is fully charged).
I brought it home and disassembled the shifter on the bar extender and it didn’t seem to be connected. It is now and did make a shift sound but now I can’t get it to shift but the junction box does light up.
Wondering if it’s in a crash mode or something but I don’t know much about that. Any suggestions?
I would start by connecting your Di2 to the Shimano app to confirm that the app recognizes all the components, such as the front derailleur, and whether the firmware is up to date. If you have the Bluetooth Di2 module, you can connect to your phone or tablet. If not, then you’ll need to connect via cable to a laptop using the Shimano charge brick and use the Shimano Etube software program.
Hopefully it’s as simple as updating the firmware.
Very likely one of the cables came loose from the DI2 box. Go take a look at where the cables go in - if it’s loose, it’s as easy as identifying the one that’s not fully plugged in and then plugging it in.
I seem to keep having problems with my FD. I took it to my LBS and they ran a diagnostic, updated the software and then the FD worked, but just now I accidentally unplugged the wire from the FD and even though I snapped it back in, now the FD won’t shift (again!).
Is there some kind of reset I need to do?
Also, is the wireless adaptor thing easy to install (and is it useful?). I can’t seem to run the ETube software since I only have a Mac and it says it’s not compatible. So I was thinking of going the wireless route to my iphone but of course the stock Ultegra Di2 isn’t set up to do that without buying that extra inline adaptor piece.
It’s possible you’re crimping/folding one of the wires when you put the di2 box back. Make sure the wires aren’t bunched up tightly at any point and check if the shifting works before putting the cover back on.
Also make sure you’re not in ‘crash recovery’ mode.
The wireless unit is worth it for knowing the status of your di2 battery. (Shows up as a datafield on your head unit, and also a low battery alert). Should never have a flat di2 battery with this.
The ability to then use the hidden di2 buttons to control your head unit or lights is nifty, but not essential.
Knowing the number of gear shifts you made in a ride - I have no idea why people care about this.
I’m fairly new to di2 so I may not be of any help but I had the same thing happen to me. I run full synchro and had my base bar and bar ends set to control my RD only. I had some maintenance done on my bike and when I got it back it, my FD would not work. As it turned out the mechanic changed my settings from synchro to manual. I changed it back and it worked fine again. I do have Bluetooth
If I had the WiFi thing would that help me trouble shoot?
Nitpicking, but it’s bluetooth and ANT+, not wifi.
You can troubleshoot with the wireless connector and the phone app, but you can also troubleshoot for free with the charger plugged in to a laptop (with the e-tube software installed).
The synchro mode and crash mode can be changed on the bike from the button on Junction A - no need for the wireless connector to do this.
So with the Bluetooth is this all easy to just do from your phone? WiFi in line thing in Amazon cart and just waiting to “buy nowâ€
Piece of cake. I got it for ease of use. I normally don’t have a laptop handy to plug into so for me, it just works. You can control everything from there
I had the problem when I changed my junction box.
It turned out that the DI2 system was in manual mode and I couldn’t shift front derailleur. Change it to synchro mode and it will shift. You can google how to do that.
I’ve had the same issue. About once a year, my system will somehow get switched from syncro to manual mode. In manual, the rear will shift but the front won’t. Pretty easy fix when you know what to look for.
Thanks for the advice – It really was just a matter of getting it back into syncro mode via the junction box (pressed the button a few seconds) after I had accidentally unplugged and replugged the DF cable. All good now.
