How much should I pay for a cable replacement, Kuota Kueen K (F/B brakes plus both shifters) ?
Also, I do basic maintenance by myself, is this self-doable or better LBS?
How much should I pay for a cable replacement, Kuota Kueen K (F/B brakes plus both shifters) ?
Also, I do basic maintenance by myself, is this self-doable or better LBS?
I do all my own maintenance - self taught - should be a relatively easy job. Only way to learn is to do it yourself. Only advice I have is to look at how the cables are routed, cable stops etc. before you remove the old cables so you know how to put 'em back in.
Also, I do basic maintenance by myself, is this self-doable or better LBS?
I think you should learn to do everything on the bike that doesn’t require expensive tools (such as certain types of frame repairs). Then, later, you can decide if it’s worth your time to keep doing it.
This job doesn’t need such tools. Do it yourself now - bike cable cutters and allen keys are enough, through a third hand tool or toe strap will help a lot.
+1 on do it yourself. YouTube it. Worst case is that you need to bring it to the LBS anyway…
How much should I pay for a cable replacement, Kuota Kueen K (F/B brakes plus both shifters) ?
Also, I do basic maintenance by myself, is this self-doable or better LBS?
You can find cables/housing for both derailleurs and brakes for around $40 give or take. You might need a longer piece of cable housing for the rear derailleur, depending upon the bike. The cable housing on my Jamis runs through the frame so standard lengths that come in cable sets are usually too short. Do yourself a favor and get a good cable cutter as well. It comes in mighty handy if you do your own maintenance.
TT bikes with internal cable routing can be a bit of a bitch to set up properly if you have R2C shifters but otherwise, it’s pretty simple to replace cables if you have some mechanical aptitude and look over the cable routing etc. before you begin. Take some pictures just in case.
$60 - $80 depending on if they run into any problems.
If it’s just the cables and not the housings then a bit less.
Try this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Jagwire-brake-shifter-cable-housing-kit-Road-Mountain-Bike-/251306626488?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&var=&hash=item3a830acdb8
It should have everything you need, if you aren’t too picky
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+1 For doing it yourself. It is an easy job and only gets easier the more you do it.
I did take mine in for a shifter cable replacement when I had a time crunch. I think it was $15 for the cable and labor for the one cable.
Try this:http://www.ebay.com/…;hash=item3a830acdb8
It should have everything you need, if you aren’t too picky
Are those going to be long enough? I’m about to recable my b16 and was lead to believe that pack will be too short and I need the XL pack like http://www.ebay.com/itm/141109119264?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
I’d much rather pay 13 than 44.
I’ve used them for a couple of builds now; a road bike, a chinese carbon tt frame, and a Trek SC 2.5. The SC was a little close, because it runs the cables and housings through the whole frame, but it was enough to do the job
I’ve used them for a couple of builds now; a road bike, a chinese carbon tt frame, and a Trek SC 2.5. The SC was a little close, because it runs the cables and housings through the whole frame, but it was enough to do the job
Okay, I’m going to take a gamble on it, as long as the cables are long enough I can always get some more housing locally.
I used this place when I built up my Plasma:
http://www.planetcyclery.com/cables-and-cablesets/
Fast FREE shipping, great customer service (they sent one of the housings in black vs the grey I ordered, and once I contacted them they shipped me the right housing and told me to keep the original).
Is it worth the extra to buy teflon coated cables?
Cable Cutters. Make sure to buy bike specific cable cutters (and not bolt cutters). You will need them for the cables and housing both. And make sure when you cut the housing not to leave a sharp end that damage the cable over time. Use a metal file to trim off any sharp edges. Some people get fancy and use a grinder or dremal tool to clean up the housing ends.
Replacing cables is very easy on bikes- just be sure to use bike specific cable cutters. Use old cable to judge length, and cut a bit long at first. Running the cable is pretty easy. Adjusting the shifting is a bit tricky if you do not know how. Other than that it is a breeze. Replacing the housing is a little trickier, but not too hard- just run the housing the same way it is now. Use old sections to measure length. Really be sure to use bike specific cable cutters on housing, and something pointy to make sure ends are open.
Just put new cables and housings on my road bike. Used Yokozuna Reaction cable set. Housing has no compression and cables do not stretch. Incredible shifting, but a little tricky putting on because the brake housings are so stiff. I had to pre bend the little section near the rear brake. I would not get enough housing in the kit to do my tri bike, since I have to run rear shifter cable housing the entire way. For bikes like that, you probably will need to buy housing and cut your own length.
I’ve used them for a couple of builds now; a road bike, a chinese carbon tt frame, and a Trek SC 2.5. The SC was a little close, because it runs the cables and housings through the whole frame, but it was enough to do the job
Okay, I’m going to take a gamble on it, as long as the cables are long enough I can always get some more housing locally.[/quote
cables came in, looks like there is enough housing but it is too big. It came with 5mm housing and I guess I need 4mm. I cant get it to pass through the holes in the top tube. I was only able to get 1/3 through. I’m going to order up some 4mm cable and try that.
Just double check that you haven’t mixed up the gear casing and brake casing. I just checked my road bike and the gear casing is 4mm and brake casing 5mm. Brake casing is made up of a coiled metal liner, the gear casing has wires running lengthways along the cable, brake casing is much stiffer than gear casing.
Here’s a pic, casing on top is gear casing, bottom is brake casing
http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a597/nickag1/20e1289bd1770bdc38662455121cc0a3_zpsf46e0d7a.jpg
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Here’s a pic, casing on top is gear casing, bottom is brake casing
Wow, thanks, so yea that was the issue…
All better now
How much should I pay for a cable replacement, Kuota Kueen K (F/B brakes plus both shifters) ?
Also, I do basic maintenance by myself, is this self-doable or better LBS?
WARNING!!! I have a Kueen K and the first time I re-cabled it, I realized that it does not run housing all the way through the frame. The housing terminates at the point where the it goes into and out of the frame and there is a skinnier cable liner that runs inside the frame. There is no problem if the cable liner is in good condition and has not broken. Mine wore through and broke were the rear derailleur cable rubs as it goes around the bottom bracket. This meant that when I ran the new cable back through the old liner, it got lost inside the frame and took forever to finally get it to come out the pinhole in the end of the chainstay. I ended up finding this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Brake-Cable-Liner-Shifter-Derailleur-Cable-Liner-Grey-1800mm-2pk-/300683933910 and replaced the liner. I would suggest that each time you re-cable your bike, you replace this. Before you remove the old cables, push this over the end of the old cable and push the old liner out the other end.
I hope this all makes sense. Please message me or reply if you have any questions about this. I LOVE my Kueen K by the way!