Buying electronic groupsets - what do you do?

let’s say you have a frame and you want to build it, with either eTAP, or Di2 9070, or 9150 (when you can get it) or 6870 (Ultegra electronic). how do you do it? it’s not exactly straightforward.

do you buy just the shift system as a package? shifters, junction box, wires, battery, F&R derailleurs? or each piece individually? or what? and from where?

I just bought shimano ultegra di2 off of ebay and after I purchased the “TT Kit” they sent me a form with all of the options I needed to build it up. I love my local bike shop but not enough to spend 1k more for the same stuff.

I bought my original 7971 complete from a friend and all of my subsequent Di2 groups etc have been pieced together from online stores, classifieds, and eBay as it’s always worked out cheaper that way.

I literally just bought everything to build up with XTR Di2. I bought the shifter, display, junction box, battery, and wires from Competitive Cyclist, and the derailleur from Chain Reaction because it was cheaper and Competitive Cyclist didn’t have any more of the long cages in stock. I contemplated a full “build kit,” but I would immediately be tossing the front derailleur and crank (so I can run power), and I can keep my current cassette and chain, so this was the best option.

was it like this? and then you asked them for SW-R671 shifters in place of the road shifters? and i suspect you got a nice discount for that?

You are correct. I already had a quarq crank so this was all I needed.

was everything there? did you need longer wires? extra wires? do you have shifting at the pursuits? did you get an e-tube junction box?

Have you considered the xshifter product?

http://www.xshifter.com/

On the surface seems like a much better solution since it can be used with all ones existing stuff. Sure has my eye.

Ordered Etap wifli upgrade kit from LBS. Bought brake set from online sight with great price. Using crankset purchased from ST classifieds. DA Chain and Cassette from home stash.

yes i have, dave, but that’s not the topic of* this *thread.

You are getting above my pay grade now so I’ll answer as best I can. I am still waiting for my frame to get back from paint so it isn’t built yet.

I found a brand new 2012 P5 frame from a dealer in the northeast after I failed to personally connect with the new cervelo bike. When I was filling out my eBay sheet my mechanic told me everything to click yes for. I did check yes to a junction a and junction b box and those are in my possession. I’m not sure if the wires are long enough but I assume so. If not I will let you know when it gets built up in the next few weeks.

Sorry im not able to answer more clearly. I wasn’t gifted with a mechical mind which is why I love my local bike shop so dearly.

no problem. here’s what i’m looking for. right now, SRAM eTAP goes for $1,580 and here is what you get:

  • four Blip satellite shifters
  • BlipBox control module
  • front and rear derailleurs
  • BlipBox handlebar mount
  • batteries
  • charger
  • USB stick for firmware updates

what you’d need for Ultegra depends on whether you need brake levers. it’s $234 for a set of pursuit brake levers with shifters built in. so, you have that question. if anybody has done this, what i’d like is a similar cost analysis. how do you / did you buy the following:

  • 6870 (ultegra) F & R derailleurs
  • SW R671 bar-end shifters
  • 6871 pursuit levers
  • E-Tube junction box
  • battery
  • charger
  • wires

my question is, does the above do it? what am i missing? is the rear internal junction box required? is this list about equal to the list above for eTAP, bearing in mind that you actually get a lever with shimano. and for extra credit, if i put some sprinter switches on the shimano bike, do these work down at the pursuit area? can i plug these into an E-tube junction box? (this would make me apples:apples to the eTAP group).

*if i put some sprinter switches on the shimano bike, do these work down at the pursuit area? can i plug these into an E-tube junction box? (this would make me apples:apples to the eTAP group). *

You can not plug Sprinter shifters into the Junction box,only into the road shifter port

that’s what i thought. i had hoped that the newer 5-port e-tube junction box might solve that problem, but i guess not.

was everything there? did you need longer wires? extra wires? do you have shifting at the pursuits? did you get an e-tube junction box?

Best way is to buy used from here either toad setups or TT setups.

If you’re piecing it together then for either setup you will need FD, RD, battery (internal/external) A & B junction boxes, 1ea 700~1000mm wire (down tube), 1ea 450~600mm wire (rear derailleur), 1ea 600mm (battery), 1ea 350~500mm wire (FD)

Road setup (road di2 shifters) and depending in you handlebar size 2ea 350~500mm wires and you’re done!

TT aerobar shifters (either single or dual your choice) all of these shifters have their own wires i believe don’t quote me on it. If you choose to the brake shifters then also add those (if you go with base bar & aerobar shifters, 5 port junction box A will normally be required).

Additionally, if you wish to run the d-fly sensor then buy it and add a 150~500mm wire as you can have it inside the or near the RD (I’d prefer the latter) totally your choice.

I’ve great luck buying a complete kit for my TT bike and basically i just finished peicing together my dura ace di2 for my s-works.

Cheapest would be to find a seller from here, got my TT UI2 for $750 and pieced my DA di2 for about $950 with ceramicspeed OSPWS as an added bonus 😉😉😉 just take the time to look thru it.

I have a 1X set up and a Climbing Switch plugged into the Junction box ,but chances are the wire maybe short I spliced a extension
http://i63.tinypic.com/wjyvz8.jpg
.

your shifters are 9071, yes? plus the climbing shifters? your climbing shifters, if you can stick them on THAT pursuit bar and have enough room i suppose you can stick them on any pursuit bar. but those are 2-button, yes? do they each work the same way with your 1x? one button is up, one button is down? or is only 1 button functional on each shifter?

“Cheapest would be to find a seller from here, got my TT UI2 for $750 and pieced my DA di2 for about $950”

did you buy them USED here? or from a dealer who’s on the forum? i didn’t know there would be much Di2 on the secondary market. why would anyone sell a Di2 system used?

that’s what i thought. i had hoped that the newer 5-port e-tube junction box might solve that problem, but i guess not.

I thought that was the point of a 5-port box. I had planned to add either climbing or sprinting buttons to my 6780 Di2, but then my 5 port junction A box schitt the bed and died on me and the LBS replaced it with a 3 port.

On your list above, I believe you need to add a Junction B box for the rear.

Were it me at this point, I would 100% go with eTap over Di2. I have had issues with cable lengths being just in the eddpge of what I need, leading to either replacing cables or having them pull loose mid-ride. eTap seems like such a no-brained in terms of set-up. No need to screw around with the different junction boxes, cable lengths, etc.

My $.02…

“Cheapest would be to find a seller from here, got my TT UI2 for $750 and pieced my DA di2 for about $950”

did you buy them USED here? or from a dealer who’s on the forum? i didn’t know there would be much Di2 on the secondary market. why would anyone sell a Di2 system used?

Dan,

I’m el cheapo so i bought it used both kits however they have worked flawlessly since day one! If you buy “brand new” either 6870/6871 9070/9071 you’ll run a bill of well over $1k and closer to $2k for DA. Remeber that the sizes i mentioned for the wires are frame sizing dependant… and if you use sprinter shifters they connect to the road shifters without any additional items.