I’m thinking ahead for a possible build. Wanting to build “superbike†but cheap. Alright with buying a lot of stuff used bc it’s worth it and can save a lot of $$. A lot of idea behind this is that windtunnel data have shown bikes like p2/p3 built with right stuff isn’t much “slower†than ur superbikes.
I did have a 2014 p3 w 10spd mechanical, quarq, Tri rig brakes, 3t breeze ltd base bar, 3t ski extensions, Flo 90/disc wheelset but unfortunately sold it bc I stepped away from Tri to do crit and road racing.
So want your thoughts: I’m not sold on 1x solely so that’s not a discussion due to where I live and terrain.
-2014+ Cervelo P2 or P3
-Etap or di2 (I have etap on my 2017 trek madone and could put etap on TT bike and put mechanical groupset on madone)
-Tri Rig Brakes
-alpha X or alpha one (I’m not sure which one bc I will be doing high hands, even full praying mantis position so have to consider base bars ability to tilt extensions and keep base bar flat). Thoughts or suggestions on this? Been seeing the revolver arm cups w the built up back end to help keep elbows from slipping.
-not sure on aero extensions
-Quarq
-I have Flo carbon 60’s so May stick w 60 for front and get a Flo disc.
I would do Di2 (or mechanical if "cheap is the true priority). I have Di2 on my TT bike and eTap on my road bike. I love them both, but I prefer Di2 on TT, because it is easier to hide the install, and I love full synchro on the TT bike.I would look beyond the P2/P3. That was a great bike in its day, but a lot of other very strong (and probably cheaper) alternatives have come out in the six years since the P2/P3 was born. The P2/P3 has dirty cable routing (can fix with mod) and the rear brake location that you cannot fix. Other frames (like the Felt IA, Argon, Speed Concept, etc.) may be faster than a P2/P3 frame and offer better integrated storage for better overall aero. For example, any frame with an integrated draft box for storage could be faster than a fully equipped P2/P3 with its legacy limitations.
IMO a lot of bikes have “superbike” aero if you sort out the bars, brakes, and other parts. So a newer P2 or P3 is a good starting point, but others (and even older frames) might be a better value. I definitely wouldn’t be going with electronic on a budget bike. It’s ~$1k for slightly easier shifting. The Alpha Ones are probably a good choice since the bars are quite important.
Yeah, if budget is important, I would not do Di2 or ETap. They are cool systems, but they do not make the bike faster. Get mechanical and save a bunch of money or spend it on something that will actually make you or your bike faster.
I’m not strained on $$ per se. I just feel like you can build a superbike and not spend $6k+. I like electronic and not worried about UCI.
Well, I think you can build a superbike for <$2k and give up very little or nothing to the $10k+ bikes, and be better in some ways…
One thing about the P2 or P3 is that the wide BB forces high Q. I guess you will have that anyway with the Quarq PM. And the used P2s and P3s are not cheap IME. Someone was selling a P2 (full bike) on here for $1100 or so not long ago, and that is cheapest I’ve seen by a good margin. Usually P2s are >$1500, which seems kinda high. P2s also have wider fork blades than the P3. If you get a P2 I’d put a P5-6 fork on it, and repaint both to match…
One thing to note on the old P2 at least (not sure about P3) is that you can only run 23mm tires in the older P2s… as far as I understand the common best practice is to go for 25s…
One thing to note on the old P2 at least (not sure about P3) is that you can only run 23mm tires in the older P2s… as far as I understand the common best practice is to go for 25s…
What year? I have a 2013 P2 (not the new frame style) and can run 25mm tires without issue.
Why not just buy an actual superbike? You don’t have to spend $10k. My co-worker just bought a brand new Speed Concept for less than $4k. I’ve seen late model used 7.5’s transact for $2k or less. No need to update brakes or cockpits on one of those; with a decent set of wheels that platform is at least as fast as anything out there. If you’re really budget conscious, throw an aerojacket on the stock 50mm rear wheel and run the front as-is, and your still in the ballpark.
One thing to note on the old P2 at least (not sure about P3) is that you can only run 23mm tires in the older P2s… as far as I understand the common best practice is to go for 25s…
Why not just buy an actual superbike? You don’t have to spend $10k. My co-worker just bought a brand new Speed Concept for less than $4k. I’ve seen used 7.5’s transact for $2k or less. No need to update brakes or cockpits on one of those; with a decent set of wheels that platform is at least as fast as anything out there. If you’re really budget conscious, throw an aerojacket on the stock 50mm rear wheel and run the front as-is, and your still in the ballpark.
Can you get the same adjustability with integrated front end?
Why not just buy an actual superbike? You don’t have to spend $10k. My co-worker just bought a brand new Speed Concept for less than $4k. I’ve seen used 7.5’s transact for $2k or less. No need to update brakes or cockpits on one of those; with a decent set of wheels that platform is at least as fast as anything out there. If you’re really budget conscious, throw an aerojacket on the stock 50mm rear wheel and run the front as-is, and your still in the ballpark.
Can you get the same adjustability with integrated front end?
Depends what you mean by “adjustability.” There’s a fairly broad range of fits you can achieve. But changes aren’t easy, to say the least. It’s probably not a bike to buy if you’re still in the “fit experimentation phase.” If you know your fit, though, and only need to set it up once, and want Superbike aero for a lower-mid-range bike price, it’s a no brainer.
