Ok, Ive got my new BMC and ive built it up myself with Di2, sweet ride… however not a huge difference between the BMC & Cannondale apart from looks.
Question for other BMC TM01 owners out there… how do you adjust the brakes for the different rim profiles out there?
you have to cut the brake cable flush at the bolt so the brake cover fits flush, so if you have a wider rim, like the Zipp firecrest you have to run a new front brake cable?
any soluitions out there?
I was getting fitted on Tuesday and the shop had a TM01. I asked that exact question. The mechanic told me that the brakes have spacers/shims. Spacers either on the inside or the outside to allow the brake pad holders to get closer or further from the rim. Make sense? I’m no expert.
I will tell you this that I had to hold my wallet back. That is a really great looking rig. Congrats and good luck.
Tony
You should have gotten an installation manual from BMC that is very good. As the above poster noted, there are washers that act as spacers that are positioned between the brake shoe and the brake arm. There are 4 and you can take out as many as you need. However, with your FC rim, this will still not get you enough room. You will need to take about 1.5mm of brake pad off using a file or grinder. Also, be sure that when you setup the brakes that you did not put too much tension on the cable. The brakes should rest on the stops.
I think the brakes were poorly conceived. They are probably very aero, but for race day access they are not practical. The pads are Shimano style so to swap pads between an AL and Carbon rim, you have to pull off the entire shoe (or cartridge holder or whatever it is called) because the 2mm hex bolt is blocked by the fork in front and the seat stays in the rear. I would highly recommend swapping these for campy style pad holders so that you can just slide the pads out.
Finally, to make this really work with a wide rim, you pretty much need to have a wide training wheel as well. If not, you have no choice except to add and remove spacers every time you switch wheels. I run Hed Ardennes as training wheels which allowed me to pull all of the spacers and still have acceptable braking and I simply swap to the -1.5mm carbon pads when I put on the Stingers. This way you do not have to mess with adjusting the brakes at all.
Sorry, but I have been unable to come up with a better solution.
Brake levers with barrel adjusters, such as those made by SRAM and Bontrager, are pretty much must-have items on this bike.
I do not believe those would help either. The brakes are designed to rest against stops when the cable is released so cable tension can’t be used to adjust the brakes. I.could be wrong but I am pretty sure that is the case.
Yep, I agree the brakes on all these superbikes, whilst very aero and look good, are impractical and a pain in the arse to use… To get the rear calliper off you have to remove the crank!!!
anyways as I am running a 909 rear I don’t have the adjustment issue with the rear wheel, only the Zipp Firecrest Front.
I think the best option is to get a second set of brake pads/and file them down as suggested, then remove all the spacers and it might just fit.
having said all this at least the brakes work, unlike my mates Trek SC.
My only other gripe is the poor turning circle caused by the intergrated fork… you need a wide road to turn around
Yep, I agree the brakes on all these superbikes
Other than the Scott Plasma. I was attracted by the fact that, as a total mechanic pleb, I might … possibly … be able to fix something should it go wrong!
The Plasma gets some good reviews but I am not ashamed to say that after a FIST fit showed it was an option I was sold on looks too. The BMC looks even better. Stunning looking bike.
Damn, you guys have me worried. I should be receiving my frame in 2 weeks but I already have a pair of FC 808’s and a pair of FC 404’s. I will train on both so don’t have to switch brake washers but I can’t believe the pads will need to be shaved.Since BMC actually sells a full build with 808’s, i assumed ere would not be a problem. What pads do they supply on their Di2/808 build?
Never shaved brake pads - other than I imagine shortening life span, are there any other problems?
Could anybody tell me, what size i have to buy.
I´m 6`1 (186 cm) tall an one of the shops recommend the M/L, another shop recommends a L-Frame.
Which one should I take.
Thanks in advance for your answers.
Lola
Do you have an existing setup? If so, BMC has a fit program on their website now that works pretty well. It tells you exactly what to measure and enter into their program. That being said, if you are between two frame sizeds on this bike I would go with the larger frame. On most frames I would suggest going smaller, but the lower your stem angle the better for cable routing on this bike.
Hi,
does anyone know how long the 4 electric cables of the di2 must be to fit in the TM01? I will order them but I don`t know the lenght. Could anyone help me out?
Many thanks in advance.
I am 5’10 and I have a M/L that fits me like a glove. So you are probably looking at a L.
Im 6’2 on a M/L and could fit on a M/S…
Use the calc to figure it out. Dont ask people unless its your twin brother.
K-T Have you had any issues with your seat post slipping a bit? I’ve had to check/recheck and adjust my post twice now. Its torqued to spec… maybe I need to start cranking down on it?? Just wondering if you (or anyone else) has had similar issues.
No problems with the post slipping. I used carbon assembly paste and made sure that the expansion plug was flush against the frame on the side opposite the seat post. I would be careful with the torque setting. I know with the old pro machine seat post that BMC had out there, they would be really hesitant to warranty anything because they suspected overtightening.
I measured it today… lost about 1.5mm on a 4hr ride. Not a HUGE problem, but definitely felt something like that on the ride before.
My LBS gave me some carbon grip stuff to put on it. Hopefully that will grab better.
How easy was this? Where did you out the battery, and are all cables/routing internal?
Which size did you get?
Does anyone know how to adjust the saddle tilt. Mine is quite nose down and I just can’t see how. There is only one bolt…?
Loosen the bolt, there is semi-round tube under the rails of your saddle. Rotate it forward or backward. It has serrations on it for grip and micro adjustments. Once you loosen the bolt you will see/feel it. To nose up, turn the semi-round platform forward. You may have to loosen the bolt a lot to move the tube.
Thanks but all that’s there is the rectangular washer under the bolt. Nothing else? Maybe the bike hop just didn’t put it in? Does it look like a spacer for not OS handlebars??