http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=36133&item=7124904959&rd=1
pinkboy…way back in the day when it was cool to grind the biggest, badest gear out there!
That’s awesome. I think I am going to bid on it for shits and grins. I might even ride it to F around on one day if I win the auction. If anyone bids and wins, they must post a picture when mounted on their ride.
I have bigger stuff than that…
Hey Bjorn… godt nyttår!!!
We make a 63T for Rotor, and have a TT rider (CAT 3 Cal. state TT champ) who uses it on his 700c Litespeed Blade, amazingly strong rider.
good stuff but if you’re feeling really macho why not head to this place and go for the big guns
http://www.mdt-products.com/prices.pdf
looks like 110t is as big as they go…even get them in carbon.
well I don’t have bigger than that, but have rode that exact same chain ring to a 53:52 40km at the district time trial many moons ago. I also have everything else between 52 and 62.
and still ride a 60 when the right course calls for it
What possible reason would anybody have for riding anything more than a 54 or maybe a 56 in extreme cases? It’s been proven higher cadence is better, so I’m really interested in why people choose to use huge chainrings?
because on flat ground in an olympic distance tri I like to average 24 - 26mph. I’d prefer to be in the middle of the cassette at the back for a straighter chain line. Then on downhills, I’d rather keep a normal cadence for better control and not have to spin out.
with 650 wheels at 80rpm:
60 x 12 = 30.9mph
60 x 13 = 28.6mph
60 x 14 = 26.5mph
60 x 15 = 24.8mph
60 x 16 = 23.2mph
<< It’s been proven higher cadence is better
proven by who? I’m not aware of any study that shows that everyone is better off riding the same cadence. Last I heard was that cadence was a highly individual thing.
I didn’t realize you used 650 wheels. My mistake.
“been proven higher cadence is better”
Not conclusively, and not for everyone. I’ll spare you the details, but I made myself look pretty stupid defending the idea that “only an idiot would try to ride an IM or half at 70 rpm…”
I’m using Arnie Baker’s program to try to raise my cadence. I’m a masher of the worst sort.
I don’t how guys push those big gears. I can push the 53/12 on the flats for maybe 5 minutes MAX. Then I go home and spend a week recovering.
I’d take 90 rpm any day because it’s a lot easier on the feet. About mile 50 tootsies start to ache if you are like me and cranking 60-70 rpm.
-Robert
“I’m using Arnie Baker’s program to try to raise my cadence. I’m a masher of the worst sort.”
-
- Good plan. Winter training: Move out of your f—ing comfort zone. You’ll never get faster unless you can push harder or spin faster. So if you’re a masher, learn to spin. If you’re a spinner, build leg strength.
“About mile 50 tootsies start to ache if you are like me and cranking 60-70 rpm.”
-
- I have had that experience, but it’s mostly because my shoes don’t fit as well as they could. Santa didn’t bring me the Rocket 7s I wanted, so I may have to buy them myself. I’ve been working bigger gears for leg strength this winter. I built my cadence over the last few years, and I can spin 105 very comfortably for a long time. Now I need to do that with a biger gear in order to go faster.
What possible reason would anybody have for riding anything more than a 54 or maybe a 56 in extreme cases? It’s been proven higher cadence is better, so I’m really interested in why people choose to use huge chainrings?
It’s been proven higher cadence is better? News to me, and the world of exercise science…
You should publish your findings, you’d be the first.
Scott Martin
You want to tell me a higher candence isn’t better in a triathlon? Try doing a 1 hour bike season at 50-70 rpm then head out for a run, then do the same but keep your cadence above 95. Which run feels better?
Is that a fit of hilarity, a shaking of the head at another sucker biting the dust, or just wonderment at my stupidity?
-Robert
You want to tell me a higher candence isn’t better in a triathlon? Try doing a 1 hour bike season at 50-70 rpm then head out for a run, then do the same but keep your cadence above 95. Which run feels better?
Therein lies the problem in the theory. On a bike…bigger chainrings (if able to be pushed) will always go faster…that to me sounds like physics. In you initial comment you said nothing about what kind of course you’d be riding said rings on…and nothing about doing it in a triathlon. Only that a higher cadence is faster than bigger rings. When you throw a run into the works ‘most’ people will benefit on the run ‘most’ of the time using a higher cadence. Some that have trained their body from day one to push a bigger gear and then run would find a change to a higher cadence with lower gearing very difficult. More so when it came time to run. I would almost think (and in no way is this even anything more than just speculation) that a lifelong gear masher triathlete would be in for as many injuries going to a higher cadence as it would be going the other way. Not all schools of training thought work for every person. Bottom line on your initial post though…sorry…lower cadence…bigger gears…no run afterwards…always faster (if someone can push them)…why else would cars bee equipped with an overdrive?
Tack det samma!
Sorry I was talking about triathlons… this is a triathlon forum after all 
What possible reason would anybody have for riding anything more than a 54 or maybe a 56 in extreme cases? It’s been proven higher cadence is better, so I’m really interested in why people choose to use huge chainrings?
“Proven”??? Evidence please?
Higher? Higher than what? 80, 90, 100, 110, 150, 200?
I am really interested in why you would say such a thing.