I have deep aeros on layaway at my LBS, rear is a 90mm. Last season I bought a carbon TT bike and stopped using my bike rack as it clamps to the frame. I started taking the wheels off and setting it inside my vehicle. This doesnt work well when taking other racers/people, big race with a lot of gear, in a hurry etc.
My Explorer has a hitch so looking at Thule, Kuat, whatever that holds by the wheels. At races I remember seeing racks of this type “rigged up” with deep aero wheels. Instead of using the securing straps people had tied wheels off, ratchet strapped, etc. I am assuming the straps that secure the wheels at the bottom are not long enough for the deeper wheels.
Is there a rack that works better for deep aeros? Or how do you deal with it? I dont want to spend $400 on a rack and find out I have to swap wheels every time to use it or rig it up to mount my bike.
I don’t have experience with hitch racks but you could go with a fork mount roof rack. You then only need to put the wheel in the car. I’ve been using roof racks forever with all kinds of bikes and have never had a problem, and I like the concept better than a hitch rack.
Put training wheels on your bike for travel, and keep the race wheels in a bag inside the car. Better yet, remove the front wheel, and put the whole bike in the car. I’ve always done this with my SUV and our van.
Put training wheels on your bike for travel, and keep the race wheels in a bag inside the car. Better yet, remove the front wheel, and put the whole bike in the car. I’ve always done this with my SUV and our van.
That is kinda what I have been doing. In my explorer I must fold down the back seats, if I get it just right I can leave one up but still tight. I had two issues with this… I went to a 70.3 with a club mate. He wasnt racing but it was hard to arrange all of the gear around my bike. 2nd issue was weekly TTs or meeting up to group ride. If I was running late I felt crunched for time… I envied the guys that rolled up and pulled their bikes off ready to go. I carefully pulled my bike out, set it down resting on front forks, got my front wheel out, put wheel on, adjusted front brake if needed, checked pressure, and was then ready. Didnt take long but as mentioned I was just in time a few times.
The wheels came with bags, and using my trainer wheels with a hitch would solve the space issue. I would just have to be early enough to get the bike ready to any TT or event. A roof rack is possible, not sure how I would manage on an SUV. I have a buddy that uses one and it works well but his in on a Honda Civic, so much lower.
I bought the new Reynolds and they claim they are robust enough to use full time, no trainer wheels needed. I will probably still use the stock wheels at times but would still be nice to have set up with race wheels if I am using them.
I got a call from a friend on her way to the Austin 70.3, who was driving from Dallas with just such a hitch mounted tray rack. “My bike flew off the back of the car! Where can I rent one?” Bike gone. Bye bye. She was able to find a loaner and had insurance so she is now riding a new one but the reason for the rack failure was using it with deep wheels. Food for thought.
I can get a small teams worth of bikes in my expedition and my friend got her road bike in her Honda Fit with the wheel off. I would find a way to for the kids to ride inside, personally. I have a rack and still use my interior. But of course, this is not the question you asked. That… I can’t answer. You might ask your lbs and get their take on it. Even if you find an answer, you might contact the manufacturers and make sure that their claims of safety apply to deeper wheels.
I have a Kuat NV on a Flo 90 rear wheel. Did it all summer with no problems, including an 8 hour drive to IMLOU. The purpose of the rear strap is just to keep the rear wheel from sliding laterally off the bar. It doesn’t need to be so tight that it will break the rim.
Inno makes an awesome rack specifically designed for deep carbon wheels… It clamps from the side. Forgot the name but I’ve used it for 808s, Enve 6.7s and will use it with my 8.9s that are on the way. Not sure I would throw a disc in there but pretty much anything else works. It basically clamps down on the tire…
I got a call from a friend on her way to the Austin 70.3, who was driving from Dallas with just such a hitch mounted tray rack. “My bike flew off the back of the car! Where can I rent one?” Bike gone. Bye bye. She was able to find a loaner and had insurance so she is now riding a new one but the reason for the rack failure was using it with deep wheels. Food for thought.
I can get a small teams worth of bikes in my expedition and my friend got her road bike in her Honda Fit with the wheel off. I would find a way to for the kids to ride inside, personally. I have a rack and still use my interior. But of course, this is not the question you asked. That… I can’t answer. You might ask your lbs and get their take on it. Even if you find an answer, you might contact the manufacturers and make sure that their claims of safety apply to deeper wheels.
What kind of rack was it? During my searching I do remember reading one of the ones that holds the bike by the wheels can break. I quickly disregarded that one and now cant remember which one it was… It wasnt one of the popular ones like Thule, Kuat, or Yakima. I would remember if I saw it (I hope…)
When buying a new vehicle I thought about room for tri gear. I liked the Expedition in part because of the room. I opted for the fuel efficient Explorer which has been great. Only crappy part is to fit a bike upright both wheels have to come off. With just the front off it fits laying down with the big seat folded down.
Good point on manufacturer. I will have to contact Reynolds and ask that question. When I talked to them before the guy was confident the wheels would take road abuse stating riders had ridden them year round since their release with no issues. Still I didnt ask that specific question.
I have a Kuat NV on a Flo 90 rear wheel. Did it all summer with no problems, including an 8 hour drive to IMLOU. The purpose of the rear strap is just to keep the rear wheel from sliding laterally off the bar. It doesn’t need to be so tight that it will break the rim.
FYI we don’t recommend that since the fairings are not structural. Not trying to be a jerk, just letting you know.
Do you not recommend using the tie down strap or transporting on the back in a rack? I have the 1up that locks everything down. I have the Flo60 front and Flo 90 back. Would it be a problem using it on the 1up since there is no tie down coming down on the fairing? By the way its on the back of a SUV if that makes any difference.
Do you not recommend using the tie down strap or transporting on the back in a rack? I have the 1up that locks everything down. I have the Flo60 front and Flo 90 back. Would it be a problem using it on the 1up since there is no tie down coming down on the fairing? By the way its on the back of a SUV if that makes any difference.
Maybe it’s best not to travel with the deep rims on, the torque from any sort of rack might not be good for them.
I wouldn’t ride on something that I think it too fragile to handle being on a rack.
I have an old Thule rack and just use toestraps (Google it if you don’t know what that is) to hold down the rear wheel. That would work with pretty much anything other than a disk wheel as long as the carbon is structural. And if not long enough, could use a bungee cord or a piece of old inner tube tied to close.