I finally got to build up a recent purchase. I found this frame sitting in front of a bike shop in the rain. They had taken it in as a trade in, and were happy to get what they had given the guy off of his new bike. As the local Zipp rep, I decided I should give it a loving home, so here are a few shots http://www.flickr.com/photos/26204571@N08/2453822620/
You can see the others in the “photostream”. If someone knows how to post them in this thread that would be great.
Zipp 2001 Frame
Easton EC90Aero Fork
Chris King Headset
Vuka Aero bar
1080 Front Wheel
Sub9 Rear wheel
Vuma Quad Crank (pictured with an FSA)
Sram Force Ders
Zipp Rear Brake
Ultegra Front Brake
Fizik Arione Tri Saddle
Zipp Tangente2 Tires
Sram Red TT shifters
I actually got to race it this weekend, it is a pretty cool bike, very fast. I believe I had the 11th out of about 200 bike split. I am surprised about what good power transfer the bike gets, but it certainly not stiff in the normal sense of the word, it flexes like crazy when you stand, and you feel the beam action when you hit the rough stuff. However, while seated and out on the bars, it feels great. This was also my first ride on the Sub9/1080 set up…wow. Much more comfortable than the 900 disc.
I think I will stay on this bike for a while, it is a fun mix of 1994 and 2008.
that is some SWEET action. when i first got into the sport, pauli kiuru and brad beven were among the pros that won on that frame and to this day i still want one.
I adjust the beam to the max stiffness, so there is no bounce when hitting bumps. The elastomers have plenty of shock absorbsion (sp?) without bounce. I see you also turned the seat clamp over for more height. The only thing I have a problem with is snapping the seat bracket screws in half. I order 10 at a time from Dave.
Thanks so much for putting me in touch with Dave. I would never have got this thing running without him. I actually shipped my frame to him, and then picked it up last week when I had to go to Indy to meet with the guys at Zipp. Dave is a wealth of knowledge on that frame.
I appreciate your advice as well. It was several months ago, but as I was putting the bike together I remembered several pieces of advice you gave me. When I asked Dave about the seat bolts he said he was extremely low and to call him if I broke one. It kind of sounded like there wouldn’t be more, so be careful.
Dave told me not to crank that beam bolt down too much, and there is certainly not much bounce. The clamp was in that position when I got the frame, I actually didn’t realize it was adjustable, but the saddle height is perfect right now, I have actually never adjusted it.
Very nice. My original Allsop 2001 Zipp frame is due back from the painters today so i’ll soon have my black and gold tricked out fixed wheel version up here…
I used to race local TTs against a guy who had one of those. Since he got rid of it (for reasons I’ll never understand), he’s been a less formidable opponent. I know he regrets having done so.
I never noticed that strange front derailleur arrangement. Also, is there no place for a bottle cage anywhere on the frame?
ok you zipp guys and gals, found this on craigslist and it would be wasted on me, wouldn’t know what to do with it but figured someone here would. I have no connection to the seller and don’t know if it’s still available but seems like a deal?
But how did you remove the original glued in headset?
Chris
I removed mine by knocking it out with a hammer, the headtube is aluminium then fibreglass then carbon. The only problem then is finding a 1" aheadset! I used a hairdryer around it for a while before I knocked it out, I’m not sure if that helped or not but seemed a good idea at the time
I would think that heat would be bad, as it would make the Al expand and therefore harder to remove. I would have gone with a hair dryer, and then used dry ice, then popped it out, but I have never done this; so I probably dont know what Im talking about. Im hoping that Ill be able to learn someday though…
I would think that heat would be bad, as it would make the Al expand and therefore harder to remove. I would have gone with a hair dryer, and then used dry ice, then popped it out, but I have never done this; so I probably dont know what Im talking about. Im hoping that Ill be able to learn someday though…
Stephen J
The original headset was an American Classic, I can only assume it was aluminium. Was a bit of job to take out, but I think I was doing it a bit gingerly, didn’t want to wreck anything!
Sorry, I have been gone all day and unable to respond. The original headset is in fact installed with epoxy. I had David Hill, who is one of the original guys who manufactured the frames for Zipp replace it for me. He told me that one of the most common problems he sees with frames is when people try and remove the headset in the normal fashion, with the headset remover and hammer.
I am not sure how he removes it, but he charges something like $60 to remove and reinstall another. I don’t remember the exact charge because I had him doing several things to mine.
Chris King still makes one inch threadless headsets, they are pricey, but easily available and bomber.
