As I am working on my new bikes, I see lots of parts with torque wrench specs on them. Trying to be good but my car stuff is too large.
What do folks use, assuming folks care and are using a torque wrench.
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I use these…
http://tohnichi.com/products/adjustable-torque-wrench-QL5.asp
Adjustable from 5 through 20Nm, ratchet head bi directional…
Just put which ever hex or torx bit onto it…
They last forever, had mine 17years and its still mint.
Also had it calibrated 2 years ago and no adjustment was required… it see light use but that for me is a good indicator of quality and repeatable accuracy…
If al your doing is 5Nm tho just get a torque key… topeak just released on with changeable bits which live in the handle…
I use these…
http://tohnichi.com/products/adjustable-torque-wrench-QL5.asp
Adjustable from 5 through 20Nm, ratchet head bi directional…
Just put which ever hex or torx bit onto it…
They last forever, had mine 17years and its still mint.
Also had it calibrated 2 years ago and no adjustment was required… it see light use but that for me is a good indicator of quality and repeatable accuracy…
If al your doing is 5Nm tho just get a torque key… topeak just released on with changeable bits which live in the handle…
Topeak’s digital stuff looks pretty cool
I bought two from lowes
The smaller one goes up to 10nm I believe which will take care of most of your needs. I got the larger one to torque the crank. Think both were about $75 bucks. Money well spent if you work on your own stuff. I found out the hard way when my crank came off standing to sprint at 25 mph.
Until the batteries run out… 
Just like dong…
Until the batteries run out…
Just like dong…
Way to expensive for my blood anyways. 
Park Tool beam wrench.
Nashbar torque wrench…$64.99 with an additional 20% off today and free freight.
I like Park Tools and Snap-On, using them for years with no issues what so ever.
You’ll likely need two, to span 4Nm - 50 Nm for cranks or cassettes.
I have snap-on for the accurate 4-25Nm range and craftsman for higher ranges that I purchased mainly for working on cars. Craftsman is pretty crummy quality though, though perhaps on par with Kobalt and similar big box brands. You’ll thank yourself every time you use a Snap-on ratcheting wrench in a tight spot - which is almost every time you use a ratchet; the lack of backlash compared to Craftsman tools or similar is amazing. Even Matco and other high end products don’t cut it when it comes to ratchet wrenches .
As with all tools, if you’re not accustomed to buying quality, they can seem expensive. Consider it a buy-it-for-life thing if you can make the one-time cost. My tools pay for themselves in frustration-dollars all the time 
Buy high quality high-precision devices, like torque wrenches, calipers, verniers… sockets and screwdrivers aren’t as critical. Imagine the cost to damage a carbon frame over a faulty torque wrench, presumably the reason you’d want to get one in the first place.
The first one is excellent.
http://www.slowtwitch.com/...e_Wrenches_3998.html
A good sale price for just the torque wrench. You can pick up the bits for $10 or so, if you don’t already own.
Great points.
Got to find what the torque setting is for my Square taper BB for the crank arms. I need to check my existing car torque wrenches should work for that.
Until the batteries run out…
Just like dong…
If your dong’s batteries are running out, try getting a girlfriend? They do consume more than batteries though, so maybe you’re the smart one.
Or solar powered for those where the sun shines out of their arses…
My 4iiii powermeter arrived this week so I needed a torque wrench too.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mighty-880275-Torque-Wrench-Black/dp/B001R4BR1O
I settled on that one, it is pretty cheap but covers the range I need and has all of the sizes needed too… (it was cheaper in Germany, like 35€)
I tried one from Harbor Freight and it was junk. Threw it away.
If your budget is low, do not buy a cheap ratcheting/clicker type torque wrench. Get a beam wrench if you want/need to go cheap. They are cheap and simple but they work even if they are not quite as easy to use as a clicker since sometimes it is hard to position yourself to see the scale.
I have 2 Craftsman clicker torque wrenches I got on sale for 40% off and while I know the purists do not like them, they are working fine for me. I must confess I do like my 1/2" Mac better but even buying used on eBay, that one cost twice as much as one Craftsman. I appreciate a true mechanic’s tool truck bought torque wrench that is calibrated regularly is the gold standard, but I am a little short on gold to buy a set of them so some compromises must be made
I also have one of these preset ones my bike shop gave me which is really nice to have. It’s a cheap no fuss way to take care of stem bolts and a couple other things on your bike that are dangerous to over tighten so its a good place to start.
I use an SK 73008 torque screw driver. It covers 16-88 in./lbs, which is about 2-10 Nm.
I tried one from Harbor Freight and it was junk. Threw it away.
If your budget is low, do not buy a cheap ratcheting/clicker type torque wrench. Get a beam wrench if you want/need to go cheap. They are cheap and simple but they work even if they are not quite as easy to use as a clicker since sometimes it is hard to position yourself to see the scale.
I have 2 Craftsman clicker torque wrenches I got on sale for 40% off and while I know the purists do not like them, they are working fine for me. I must confess I do like my 1/2" Mac better but even buying used on eBay, that one cost twice as much as one Craftsman. I appreciate a true mechanic’s tool truck bought torque wrench that is calibrated regularly is the gold standard, but I am a little short on gold to buy a set of them so some compromises must be made
I also have one of these preset ones my bike shop gave me which is really nice to have. It’s a cheap no fuss way to take care of stem bolts and a couple other things on your bike that are dangerous to over tighten so its a good place to start.
http://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com/...Hqr8UCFZGDaQodxlgAMw
Since the seatpost parts says to torque to 4nm, I ordered both a 4 and 5 preset. The last part I want to break on the bike is the seat post holder. That breaks and time for a new frame.
Would love to find an 8 and 10 preset.
Any idea what the spec is to torque a Square taper BB?
I use this kit and even throw it into the bike box when travelling:
It isn’t high end but it works and nothing on it has broken or worn out over past 2 years of semi regular use on my own bikes. I’d buy it again.
There is a table with lots of torque specs in here.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts
I work on cars and bikes. On cars, most torqueing is done to make sure things are tight enough and as long as you are not assembling an engine, 99% of the time, things will work out fine without precise torqueing. On bikes, particularly when carbon is involved, most use of a torque wrench is done to make sure things are not over tightened. Bike bolts are actually trickier since they are smaller, the parts are more easily overstressed plus the torque values are often pretty low so there is a smaller margin of error between too loose and broken.