Best climbing wheels for a road bike?

I am doing a bunch of mountain road races this year and plan on doing the same next year so toying with the idea of going with a lighter wheel set… I currently have a set of Hed Belgiums (24 front and 28 spokes) with a PT that come in at 1,700 grams roughly so thinking something lighter might be worth it and if I really need a power meter on a road bike (Im on a cycling team). Been looking at the Dura Ace C24s which look decent and of course Enve (so expensive). Curious to see if anyone has any opinions on some good light wheels and how durable they are, stiffness, etc.

Zipp 202s come in at 1395g with a 200g rear hub. Changing that to a PT G3 would add 125g and bring you to 1520g with power. Is that good enough?

The difference we’re talking here is like 7 ounces. Is that enough for you? Can you lose half a pound or more? Serious question from a guy who is overweight and loves to buy new bike things. I used to care about weight but now I look at the scale and can’t justify buying anything for weight savings.

I hear you on weight- unfort. I am on the light side for me… im more curious to how much rotational mass on wheels matters as well…

Well then you have the right focus here. What’s the desired weight and budget? Obviously as light as possible for as little as possible but indulge me and throw somethingn out there. Give us the weight you’re shooting for and the amount you’re trying to stay under.

the lighter the better but still stiff. I am open to tubulars for the roadie. Ideally under 1,400 grams. I saw a set of dura ace C24 that were at 1,100 which looked good for weight but not sure on the durability and stiffness.

AX Lightness come to mind. Well under 1000g and support 100kg. http://ax-lightness.de/...aeder-rennrad/s-24t/

10 speed tubulars are your friend. 202/303/enve 45/7800 c24. Pick your poison.

I have enve 45s and DA7800 c24s. Both tubular 10s. Street value <$800.

There are plenty of great options available in the ST classifieds.

which do you like better the enves or the DAs
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If you are defending in these races too you really ought to prioritise braking performance and heat management in parallel with mass.

I agree. That is why the DA wheels are apealing with the alloy brake track and I’ve heard enve is supposed to be good

Enves stop better. And are theoretically more aero. And lighter. And prettier.

I hear you on weight- unfort. I am on the light side for me… im more curious to how much rotational mass on wheels matters as well…

It makes the handling lighter. That’s about it. Else it’s just weight. How much do you weight and how much does your bike weigh? How much do you have to spend?

If you want an optimized light racing set, then carbon tubulars are it.

the lighter the better but still stiff. I am open to tubulars for the roadie. Ideally under 1,400 grams. I saw a set of dura ace C24 that were at 1,100 which looked good for weight but not sure on the durability and stiffness.

I own the C24s and they are ***aces ***on durability and stiffness. Highly recommended.

Don’t think they’re 1,100 though. More like 1,300

sorry I thought you meant the clinchers. That’s what I own. Can’t speak to the tubular. But Shimano wheels are generally really good

https://lightweight.info/en/en/

???
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You’re not going to do better than the 9000 C24’s. They are suitably lightweight and extremely robust. The rims in particular are light at about 380 grams. And their hubs are the best in the business. With Aluminum brake tracks they are perfect mountain wheels. In fact they are near perfect about everywhere.

You might also look into the new Boyd Altamont Lite wheels. 1430 grams, tubeless compatible, 24mm wide.

https://www.facebook.com/boydcycling/posts/977774775616821

If you are defending in these races too you really ought to prioritise braking performance and heat management in parallel with mass.Lightweight racers descending quickly isn’t a demanding application for brakes. Heavyweight riders afraid of high speeds is another matter.

I hear you on weight- unfort. I am on the light side for me… im more curious to how much rotational mass on wheels matters as well…

Rotational mass is very small factor. Really do the actual math and not just pretend to based on a vague memory of high school physics.

The HED Ardennes SL may not be the lightest/fastest/best option, but they sure are a joy to ride…

How much vertical and how technical are the descents?
I find that for longer climbs with grades above 6% aero wheels matter very little.
And if descents are technical and require a of braking I would rather have a fairly shallow aluminum rim.