So a little while back I got myself a HED Stinger 90 rear wheel, shimano compatible.
I have a Trek Equinox 7 which I currently use. I also have a Trek 2100 I never ride. I got it very cheap a while back.
I just kinda assumed (never a good idea!) that I could take the cassette from the 2100 and put it onto my new wheels. Well…apparently the 2100 is a 9-speed, while the Tri bike is a 10-speed. Imagine that…my ass-umption was wrong!
So I am now in the market for a new cassette and I don’t see any reason to go cheap on my racing wheels. So…what is the best Shimano compatible cassette out there?
I suppose I could just go by price on trisports or all3sports.com…but price isn’t always the best indicator.
Also…is there a problem mixing components?
the best shifting cassettes are still the shimano ones.
Now you should know that the shift ramps on all the shimano cassettes are absolutely identical between Tiagra and Dura Ace (at least up to 7800 dura ace).
The only difference between the cassettes is the kind of material used. Dura Ace uses lighter materials (which are also less durable) while Tiagra uses more steel bits which are heavier and more durable. The overall weight difference between a Tiagra cassette and a Dura Ace cassette is about 100g, with all the other intermediate level ones in between i.e. Ultegra and 105.
There is no problem mixing components.
It used to be that people bought Dura Ace cassettes because they had gear ratios that the other lower end models did not, namely the much sought after 11-21 cassette, which is only available at the Dura Ace level.
I would just get Ultegra if i were you. It’s the best compromise of weight and durability, and frankly Dura Ace is not worth the 60% price premium.
Notice i did not mention Sram 10sp cassettes, which popular because they are available in weirder gear combinations like 12-26 and 11-25. That’s certainly an option if it’s something you’re interested in. Again, shift quality is equal across all the tiers and Sram Rival cassettes present the best value.
Another option is to change cassettes on your own as needed - from training wheels to race wheels or using a specific cassette for the terrain in a race. Example - if racing IMFL you will not need a 12-28 or 12-25 cassette - you can use a 12-23.
Changing cassettes looks like a complicated task, but if you have the right tools, it’s remarkably easy and straight forward.
If you’re going to shop for a shimano cassette, take a look at the prices at Pro Bike Kit.com. They have the best deals on Shimano parts that I have seen (free shipping too!). It looks to me like it’s roughly half the price of what they are charging at all3sports.
Did you try adding a 1mm spaer ring to the new set-up? Many freewheels are both 9 & 10 speed compatible. To make the move you sometimes need to add or remove spacers depending on the manufacturer. Who makes your old rear wheel? If you have Mavic Rims, they require a 2mm spacer because they are made specificaly for Mavic Cassettes which are wider. Don’t assume you need a new cassette just yet.
The DA cassette has some sprockets made of Ti to save weight. Ti is much softer than steel, which is essentially what the Tiagra cassette is.
It might interest you to know that this is not limited to cassettes. Back when shimano was still using Octalink, the 105 BBs outlived the DA BBs significantly. The same goes for the hubs. You’d be surprised how much more durable a Sora hub is than a DA hub.
I have 5 year old sora hubs on my beater bike that have never ever needed servicing from day 1 and they still spin completely fine.
I have a 9-10 year old Dura Ace 9 speed cassette that I switched from my broken Softride to my current commuter bike. As a matter of fact, most of the Dura Ace from that broken Softride was switched over. With the exception of a new saddle, I haven’t adjusted/changed a thing since building it in 07. The build only took a few hours in my kitchen. It still shifts crisper than my TT bike with Sram Red, which was built by a mechanic and took a whole day.