What are some recommendations for the best bikes for hilly courses? I’m talking repeated 1 - 2 mile climbs of 8-10% and lots of rollers in between. In other words, what is LIGHT and (maybe) aero --LIGHT being more important.
Please don’t say, “The bike that fits.” I’ve been on slowtwitch and around bikes long enough to know that.
I am curious about light tri bike AND road bikes that can be adapted with forward seatpost and aerobars. My most common setup has been Trek carbon with a Thomson seatpost flipped around and Syntace bars. I’ve repeated that variation on different bikes for years and felt comfortable. My one venture into the tri bike market was on an aluminum bike with 650 wheels and I wasn’t particularly happy. I do like to get forward, and I was comfortable on that bike, but it was difficult to climb and beat the tar out of me on longer rides and rough roads.
I am wondering about offerings from Specialized, Felt, or any of the more common “tri” companies like QR, Scott, even the newest Look bikes have caught my eye.
What you’re used to and your gearing will matter more then your bike.
If you ride your tri bike 6 days a week then go do the race on your road bike your hamstrings will be screaming. If you do the opposite your quads probably will be.
Go find what bike you like and make sure you have it geared right 50/27 if need be and you’ll go faster then buy bike “a” just for the hell of it.
"road bikes that can be adapted with forward seatpost and aerobars. "
Kestrel Talon, Cervel Soloist
I have a Talon and really like it. I chose it over the Soloist for the carbon frame compared to aluminium at about the same cost. My previous tri bikes were QR Kilo and Cervelo P2K, both 650. I switched over three years ago.
My 650c tri bikes climbed OK on the aero bars but once I had to sit up they were pigs on hills. Nobody will ever convince me not to use a road bike for climbing. There’s clearly a reason why they don’t ride tri bikes in the mountains during the TDF.
Just curious, what makes you suggest aluminum? I’ve ridden several before… Trek, Cannondale, QR. I’ve liked it, particularly on the Trek. But when many/most bikes went to carbon, I followed. Is it lighter? Stiffer? What makes the difference?
Aluminum is much stiffer than most carbon. In order to get the same stiffness as alu typically you need to pay up the wazoo. My old bike was a Cannondale Systemsix, probably the best bike Cannondale has ever made, had a alu rear triangle and carbon top and down tube. It got a crack so I got a Supersix to replace it which is the top full carbon CDale. The Supersix is not as good at climbing or sprinting as the Systemsix, it just has a softer feel. Ive ridden a Trek 5500, it feels soft compare to my Supersix. Alu is gona be stiffer than most carbon so the frame wont flex as much when you get up to climb or sprint.
same bikes that are best for flat ones really, assuming its a time trial.
you previous bike being harsh on you was likely due to the wheels (650s are harsher all else being equal)and tires and tire pressures, not anything to do with tri bikes in particular.
as for being hard to climb on, I don’t know, this seems to be largely a state of mind thing.
set the tri bike up right and climbing shouldn’t be any different. they aren’t substantively heavier really.
climbing is 99% your watts vs your weight.
perhaps the tri bike didn’t have the gearing you needed for hills and your road bike did?
I have a first gen Scott Plasma. Replaced the original 9-speed era crank (FSA) with a SRAM Red; there was a ton of flex from the cranks.
I find it to be an awesome climbing bike. Sitting forward, you can spin Lance-style. Or get out of the saddle and rock side to side.
Just got 3rd/age group at Donner Lake tri which has a steep inital climb (~4 miles) and a long grind (~11 miles) and was totally pleased with the performance of the bike.
How technical are the descents? IME a tri bike is faster any time you are in the aero bars.
If you can’t climb in the aero position, the descents are technical, and flats are sparse, a road bike with shortie bars is the ticket. Otherwise, stick with a tri bike.
A steep seat tube(i.e. tri) bike with drop bars will handle no better riding on the hoods than a tri bike, ridden on the base bars.