Beginner Triathlete Bike Help PLS

Triathlon Forum
1

Hello All, I am new to the world of triathlon bike but I have done a lot of research. Unfortunately, there are no bike fitting shops within a 200 mile radius of me and I am not willing to drive that far right now. So, I just wanted to get opinions from other triathletes. I am looking to do my first 70.3 by the end of the year. I ran at a division 1 college and I was a decent swimmer in high school, so this is the last step for me since it is the seemingly most crucial part of the race.

I am 176cm tall with around an 86-88cm inseam (for some reason it is hard to measure yourself). I go to college at Temple U so I can probably go to one of the Retul fitting places once we are in session again. My budget is kind of low since I am still in school, looking for around 2,000-3,000$ range. I am currently riding a Specialized Allez DSW SL Expert Road bike (56cm - 574mm stack - 395mm reach). Ultegra 6800 components with clip on aero bars. I think for a tri bike, I would either go 52 or 54cm.

I have been looking at a few bikes - I was told that since I am inflexible I should be looking for a bike that has a Taller Stack and a shorter reach. However, I am not sure how to tell the difference, is it in the ratio?

Here are my findings:

Name - Stack - Reach
Cervelo P2 R7000 – (522 – 411)
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/...aEAQYAyABEgKqI_D_BwE

Canyon Speedmax CF 7.0 – (533 – 425)
https://www.canyon.com/...mponents-section-tab

Quintana Roo – (540 – 425)
https://quintanarootri.com/...ries/products/prfive

Felt IA14 TT 2019 – (513 – 406)

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...pmxwxwr&istBid=t

Felt B14 – Tall and Short (535 – 405)
https://www.pulseendurance.com/...riant=21575220887612

Ventum Z 105 – (528 – 409)
https://ventumracing.com/...um-z/specifications/

Argon 18 E-117 Tri-Disc – (516 – 405)
https://www.argon18.com/...thlon/e-117-tri-disc

Giant Trinity Advanced 2020 (539 – 417)
https://www.earlsbicyclestore.com/...dvanced-363557-1.htm

Cervelo P3 – (522 – 411)
https://www.theproscloset.com/...ial-bike-2019-54cm-1

I also read that crank size is important and that wheels make a huge difference but I do not think I have the budget. Any advice is appreciated, thank you!

UPDATE: Well I guess I can get an Andean 1 fore $2,500 now so maybe that is the move…

2

Flexibility is almost never a limitation to getting a good bike fit. That is not a reason to look for short reach high stack. Do not assume you cannot get into an A+ position because of that or because you are new to cycling - and don’t let whoever told you that fit you.

As for what exact size you are looking for with the dimensions you gave, I’ll let someone else chime in - there are some experts here.

Don’t sweat getting all the best wheels, etc. As you are just starting out. It would not be unreasonable to do your first 70.3 on your road bike even, to make sure this is something you want to do long-term before you drop the money on a tri/tt bike.

But if you’ve got the money burning a hole in your pocket, go for it.

You found some decent deals. That QR PR5 with Ultegra DI2 is a great deal but it’s the most expensive bike on your list. The P2 frame is great and that’s a great price. The IA14 is also fantastic and that is a great price with good mechanical components on it. You’d be fine with any of those with a good fit.

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https://www.slowtwitch.com/Bike_Fit/Road_Bike_Fit/Reasonable_bike_fit_expectations_3595.html
.

4

https://www.slowtwitch.com/Bike_Fit/Road_Bike_Fit/Reasonable_bike_fit_expectations_3595.html

I appreciate the article!

5

Flexibility is almost never a limitation to getting a good bike fit. That is not a reason to look for short reach high stack. Do not assume you cannot get into an A+ position because of that or because you are new to cycling - and don’t let whoever told you that fit you.

As for what exact size you are looking for with the dimensions you gave, I’ll let someone else chime in - there are some experts here.

Don’t sweat getting all the best wheels, etc. As you are just starting out. It would not be unreasonable to do your first 70.3 on your road bike even, to make sure this is something you want to do long-term before you drop the money on a tri/tt bike.

But if you’ve got the money burning a hole in your pocket, go for it.

You found some decent deals. That QR PR5 with Ultegra DI2 is a great deal but it’s the most expensive bike on your list. The P2 frame is great and that’s a great price. The IA14 is also fantastic and that is a great price with good mechanical components on it. You’d be fine with any of those with a good fit.

I am thinking of just sticking with my road bike since it essentially has everything I need besides the aggressive positioning. I know for a fact that it is hard to judge any of this without data points (which I do not have) but I appreciate the feedback greatly. I am just trying to feel out my options and validating that I am researching the right stuff because the chances of me going to a bike fit place 200 miles away is 0% right now and I am EAGER to switch things up.

6

If you are on a limited budget, there are many great reasons to get a used bike, especially as a first tri bike. You will get a vastly better and faster bike for WAY less money. There are tons of folks trying to sell their tri bikes right now, it is a buyer’s market for sure.

7

It kind of drives me nuts when people use the word “aggressive” to describe their position on a bike.

8

If you are on a limited budget, there are many great reasons to get a used bike, especially as a first tri bike. You will get a vastly better and faster bike for WAY less money. There are tons of folks trying to sell their tri bikes right now, it is a buyer’s market for sure.

Yeah I have been looking at some used bikes, that may be the way to go. Now that this Andean 1 is $2,500 though…

9

It kind of drives me nuts when people use the word “aggressive” to describe their position on a bike.

I am new to this whole thing so may I ask why? Should I describe it differently to have a clearer message?

10

$3,000 can get you a used P2/P3 frame set, used TriRig Alpha X or PD Ultimate Aeria aerobar, solid 11 speed components , used powermeter, and decent race wheels (HED or Flo, and/or disc cover with those). You won’t be missing much, if any speed if you spend wisely. If you buy a new bike, well then, you spend same amount of money and lose lots of speed but have a new bike with warranty that you ca upgrade over time.

11

$3,000 can get you a used P2/P3 frame set, used TriRig Alpha X or PD Ultimate Aeria aerobar, solid 11 speed components , used powermeter, and decent race wheels (HED or Flo, and/or disc cover with those). You won’t be missing much, if any speed if you spend wisely. If you buy a new bike, well then, you spend same amount of money and lose lots of speed but have a new bike with warranty that you ca upgrade over time.

I will definitely keep that in mind, thank you!

12

I’m 35 years older, but basically the same as far as just planning to do my first 70.3. I was planning to use my used Trek 2007 SLR/1500 that I bought for a few dollars and upgraded everything except the front wheel for $1,000.

But then my son found a P2C that we think is from 2010, complete with good components for $750. The only thing I want to do to it is change from the 23mm tires to 25mm and latex tubes.

For $2k I’m sure you’d get a great bike.

13

I’m 35 years older, but basically the same as far as just planning to do my first 70.3. I was planning to use my used Trek 2007 SLR/1500 that I bought for a few dollars and upgraded everything except the front wheel for $1,000.

But then my son found a P2C that we think is from 2010, complete with good components for $750. The only thing I want to do to it is change from the 23mm tires to 25mm and latex tubes.

For $2k I’m sure you’d get a great bike.

I just bought the Andean 1 for 2.5k… on sale from 4.5k, seems like a steal, plus 30 day returns if I am not satisfied, highly recommend