There’s been a lot of pretty memorable wave in lots of different places this surf season so far, but this pic is CRAZY… Anyone who has paddled out at even a “measly” double overhead must have a true appreciation of what this picture is capturing! Click on the pic to get a full size…
1 Like
It looks like that picture is capturing the last seconds of someone’s life.
Where is this? My surf app gave me an alert about a potential swell in Navare a week or two ago, but I never checked to see if it happened or not.
video
.
Almost 30 years ago I spent a month living and surfing just south of Nazare in Peniche. The locals would talk about the crazy waves in Nazare but they always said it was unsurfable.
Portugal has so much great surf. Love that place.
Almost 30 years ago I spent a month living and surfing just south of Nazare in Peniche. The locals would talk about the crazy waves in Nazare but they always said it was unsurfable.
Portugal has so much great surf. Love that place.
Peniche is great. That whole area is really nice.
I just recently read Barbarian Days and it was AMAZING.
E
video
That link is taking me to a story from 2018.
Video of the recent wipeout by CJ Macias at Nazare is here.
There is so much that is terrifying in that video, but based on my own experience on much, much, much, much smaller (but still huge) waves my particular phobia is the depth of the whitewater. You get smashed, perhaps you hit the bottom, or just get crunched by the massive weight of the wave, you hopefully have held some air in your lungs but after you’ve been held under for a while you desperately want to get to the surface and breath. But, went you hit that layer of whitewater you can’t even swim towards the surface. It is so aerated that you can’t swim in it, it is disorienting so you aren’t sure in which direction the surface is, you can’t see any shade of light or dark in it. You can’t do much except wait it out. That’s my experience of fighting my way through 2 - 3 metres of roiling foam.
At the point when Macias wiped out he was covered by about 50+ metres of it. Nightmare.
I’ve been watching Ben Gravy surf in Nebraska and Minnesota
Vids are in the 100/100 thread
.
I looked at that picture and read the responses. Only after reading the description of being in whitewater did something click and went back and looked at the picture a second time. That’s when I noticed the little speck of a surfer about to be annihilated.
Wow!
I’ve been watching Ben Gravy surf in Nebraska and Minnesota
Vids are in the 100/100 thread
I just watched that. Ridiculous. Absolutely ridiculous. I surfed some in the Mediterranean and it is mostly gutless mush. That Minnesota wave was sweet.
I just recently read Barbarian Days and it was AMAZING.//
I bought that book in a surf shop a few years ago and lost it on my book shelf. Found it a couple months ago and finally got to reading it. Yes it was awesome, from a great storyteller and surfer. For all the surfers and adventure seekers, I highly recommend this book…
I just recently read Barbarian Days and it was AMAZING.//
I bought that book in a surf shop a few years ago and lost it on my book shelf. Found it a couple months ago and finally got to reading it. Yes it was awesome, from a great storyteller and surfer. For all the surfers and adventure seekers, I highly recommend this book…
That guy was in on the ground floor at the Portugal breaks discussed at the top of the thread… again, amazing.
E
I went down to the waterfront (Lake Ontario) today. It’s -5C (23 Freedoms) and windy.
There’s two guys surfing in the distance.
I couldn’t get a video of them but here’s the waves.
Ben Gravy surfs ALL 43 New Jersey Beach Towns in one day!!!
Granted, “surfing a town” means getting out in the water, catching a wave & standing up, even if it’s just 2’
Back in the van and on to the next
Starting at Cape May and moving up to Sandy Hook, the team calculates that there are 14 hours of daylight, so about 20 minutes for each stop; the tough part is getting from Brigantine to LBI — you have to backtrack through AC out to the Parkway, take 72 to the middle of LBI, and … well, you’ll see … then do it the same thing again when they get to Barnegat Lighthouse Kubel’s was an Anthony Bourdain favorite BTW and featured on Parts Unknown]
*Barbarian Days *- William Finnegan.
loved it, that situation off Portugal was something else
Speaking of ‘situations off Portugal’ - specifically Nazaré - there’s a series on the WSL YouTube Channel about Billy Kemper: his devastating wipeout in Morocco last February , frantic airlift back home JUST as everything is shutting down from COVID, and subsequent rehab
Episode 6 was released by WSL at the end of March, 2021, with Billy going out at Jaws - and that was it
… So we thought …
Episode 7 posted yesterday, out of nowhere; Billy returns to Nazaré
Speaking of ‘situations off Portugal’ - specifically Nazaré - there’s a series on the WSL YouTube Channel about Billy Kemper: his devastating wipeout in Morocco last February , frantic airlift back home JUST as everything is shutting down from COVID, and subsequent rehab
Episode 6 was released by WSL at the end of March, 2021, with Billy going out at Jaws - and that was it
… So we thought …
Episode 7 posted yesterday, out of nowhere; Billy returns to Nazaré
This was really good. Thanks for the recommendation. Small nit - he returns to Morocco, not Nazare - but still a very good episode.
The Lost Tapes - Kelly Slater series has been really good as well.
Speaking of ‘situations off Portugal’ - specifically Nazaré - there’s a series on the WSL YouTube Channel about Billy Kemper: his devastating wipeout in Morocco last February , frantic airlift back home JUST as everything is shutting down from COVID, and subsequent rehab
Episode 6 was released by WSL at the end of March, 2021, with Billy going out at Jaws - and that was it
… So we thought …
Episode 7 posted yesterday, out of nowhere; Billy returns to Nazaré
This was really good. Thanks for the recommendation. Small nit - he returns to Morocco, not Nazare - but still a very good episode.
The Lost Tapes - Kelly Slater series has been really good as well.
Beat me to it - it’s been great seeing more of the 'human side" of Slater in that series.
Speaking of ‘situations off Portugal’ - specifically Nazaré - there’s a series on the WSL YouTube Channel about Billy Kemper: his devastating wipeout in Morocco last February , frantic airlift back home JUST as everything is shutting down from COVID, and subsequent rehab
Episode 6 was released by WSL at the end of March, 2021, with Billy going out at Jaws - and that was it
… So we thought …
Episode 7 posted yesterday, out of nowhere; Billy returns to Nazaré
This was really good. Thanks for the recommendation. Small nit - he returns to Morocco, not Nazare - but still a very good episode.
The Lost Tapes - Kelly Slater series has been really good as well.
That’s right, thanks
I actually posted even before I watched all the way through “Wait there’s a new one! Gotta tell Slowtwitch!!!”
The Lost Tapes - Kelly Slater series has been really good as well.
Beat me to it - it’s been great seeing more of the 'human side" of Slater in that series.
At the Surf Ranch he asks some kids “Why do you think I built this?” and one kid answers “So your friends could surf here?”
“No, it’s so I could surf here!”
.