My Di2 w/ fd has never been “perfect” at least not as good as my Ultegra Di2 on my roadie. Quirks of different bikes and drivetrains I assume.
Do you feel the accuracy of the Elsa is better than your Rotor Quarq? My Cinco Saturn seems to have drift mid-ride, even after manual 0. My hope is the Elsa will be more accurate whole ride/ race abd the ability to sway rings without the mailer to Quarq is a huge bonus.
Dev- thanks for the insight…it seems 52/36 is a trend right now…Praxis has been sold out of those rings for a while. But, your keeping the compact and shortening up the cassette seems to me the way to go.
The nice thing about 52/36 is you always have the option of going 50/34 s you are on 110 BCD. The key is to be on 110 BCD then you have a world of chainring options. In fact, for several years, I rode 48/34. Loved the 48 “large ring” because it allowed me to stay in the big ring for most racing unless I hit anything sustained above 6%. My IMLP PB, Kona PB, Wildflower PB bike splits were all done on the 48. 48x12 is a 4:1 ratio and as I said, it just forces you to tuck and coast earlier and conserve energy on downhills. I got my tuck tight enough that I can keep up with most of the guys pedaling at the point that i “spin out”.
Accuracy is the same as far as I can tell. I use a mcmaster Carr 20kg calibration weight to check slope. My old quarq needed a slope change when I traded the rotor round rings for the 7900 rings. My Elsa slope was dead on no change when I went from the Sram 50/34 rings it came with to the praxis rings. Both quarq exhibit very little zero offset drift (less than 10 counts.
So, I am assuming pairing your Quarq to your Garmin Edge 500 went well?
I have been running that system for a few years with no problems. I have found a couple tips that make pairing work better.
if you sometimes do and sometimes do not use a heart rate monitor, make sure that when you do not wear it you tell the Edge 500 so it is not looking for it. If I forgot to do that, it would take longer to do the satellite pairing and calibration stuff.
if you want accurate elevation, you will need to setup the elevation points.
always reset the ride before turning the Edge 500 off. Sometimes I had issues if I did not. Now that I always reset the ride, never have issues.
For BB30, the spindle stays attached to the DS crank arm and you remove/install using the DS bolt.
Not true in all cases. For example, the SRAM S500 BB30 – the spindle stays attached to the NDS arm.
FWIW - I just swapped out my TriMAX BB30 for a Riken BB30 - The TriMAX has the spindle attached to the drvie side - I just loosened the non-drive side and slid it out the drive side.
The Riken I received was actually the BB30 I-A (with the wider spindle for the new cervelo BB30 setup and the spindle attached to the NON-drive side crank arm - you can confirm this by looking at the instruction sheet that comes with the Quarq). I called Quarq and they said, just install it as show for the BB30 I-A, and it would work fine.
Currently, I wish I had received the “true” BB30 as it would be a bit sleeker at the bottom bracket of the slice (i.e., not have the extra amount of spindle sticking out) but I guess it give me the option to fit the narrow BB30 or the newer wider BB30 brought on by Cervelo.
The Riken I received was actually the BB30 I-A (with the wider spindle for the new cervelo BB30 setup and the spindle attached to the NON-drive side crank arm - you can confirm this by looking at the instruction sheet that comes with the Quarq). I called Quarq and they said, just install it as show for the BB30 I-A, and it would work fine.
I got my Riken BB30 this week and could not figure out what the deal was with the spindle sticking out the non drive side and the spacer behind the drive side (compared to my Sram Exogram).
After reading your post i called SRAM and the confirmed they only make the BB30 I-A to address the BB30 needs for all the PM models. Bummer…
One more note that will hopefully give you some confidence. I have a bb30 quarq I switch between my Evo and Slice. I** can’t do it quite as fast as Tom’s video**, but it is pretty easy. Certainly as easy as switching my old powertap (I would swap the cassette). On mine I just loosen one bolt with a hex wrench, wiggle and pull the drive side crank off and poke the nds out. I usually apply a touch of lube, wiggle both sides into the new bike, tighten the bolt and I’m good to go. I believe I’ve switched back and forth 5 times in the last two weeks. Note that if it is not well lubed it can be very difficult to remove. The first time I wasn’t able to do it myself, took it into the LBS and watched them use a big old hammer on it before it popped out. Good luck.
Is there a link around for the infamous video of Tom A moving the crank from one bike to another in less time than it takes to boil an egg?
I don’t have a link to that video, but I have to say that my Quarq has been totally rock solid and stable. The zero offset barely drifts 10 points for most long rides, which corresponds to my termperature changes in rides. It always picks up and everything is totally reliable. I really think that Quarq hit a home run. I don’t really use the left/right power balance, but everything else I’ve been really happy with. I’ve trained and raced in the full cross section of temperatures from zero C to 36C and with rain and dry conditions.
Hi, Can you please help me, I have a sram s500 and BB30 …is the spacer and black bearing cover suppose to spin with the cranks? the spacer is spinning and doesnt seem to cause drag but the bearing cover is causing resistance. I cannot seem to install it properly, i will try your trick to hit it with a rubber mallet.