Sorry for the basic question…I have searched on youtube about how to remove a BB30 crank and every video shows me how to install one. I understand how to install one.
But this is my first experience with BB30 crank removal. I have removed taper square, octalink and ISIS in the past that required a crank puller tool, and have removed Shimano cranks that just required me to loosen a few allen bolts and that funky plastic thing that screws into the hollow spindle.
BB30 just seems to have require the tightening or loosening of a single 10 mm allen bolt. Do I do this from the drive side or the non drive side? Am I missing anything?
I am just in the process of installing a Quarq Elsa and don’t want to do anything totally stupid, but I’d rather install myself so I learn the entire process rather than some guy in lbs who will have to learn the process anyway. Also, any tips in terms of mating with a Garmin Edge 500 would be appreciated. For the moment, actually reading the user manual (what a concept, my wife might be proud of me), things look fairly straight forward…at least a lot more straight forward than anything I’ve tried to decipher from Ikea!
Keep me posted on how it goes. I can’t answer your question, but just acquired a riken myself. I have no experience in changing cranksets, BB30 or otherwise Flipping through the Big Blue Book now.
For BB30, the spindle stays attached to the DS crank arm and you remove/install using the DS bolt.
This would actually make having an extra NDS crank arm and spindle handy for bike swaps…just leave the NDS arm and spindle in each bike and just swap the DS with the spider attached
For complete removal, just loosen the bolt on the DS and remove the DS crankarm/spider. Then, just tap the end of the spindle to drive it towards the NDS and pull it out from that direction. You might have to keep tapping it until it’s through both bearings.
One tip with NDS/spindle installation: The radial clearances from the spindle diameter to the bearing inner diameters are tighter than they are on the GXP cranks (which can be easily installed and removed by hand). You’ll need to usually “tap” the spindle in place with something like a rubber mallet, and for installation it’s a good idea to put the NDS crankarm and spindle in the freezer for 10-15 minutes to “shrink” the aluminum spindle for easier installation
Thanks for the details. It appears the Vision TTmax BB30 crankset that the bike came with has the spindle attached to the drive side. So perhaps with that specific crank I need to loosen the allen bolt from the non drive side and then tap the spindle with a mallet and have it come out from the drive side. Perhaps the Quarqs are unique to BB30 with Allen bolts on both sides?
BB30 cranks cme in lots of different configurations. Some wth pinch clamps one side or bth some with split axles in the middle some with bolts on one side or the other. With any configuration you need to tap out the axle in one direction r the other.
Thanks for the details. It appears the Vision TTmax BB30 crankset that the bike came with has the spindle attached to the drive side. So perhaps with that specific crank I need to loosen the allen bolt from the non drive side and then tap the spindle with a mallet and have it come out from the drive side. Perhaps the Quarqs are unique to BB30 with Allen bolts on both sides?
Dev
Well…if there’s no way to remove it from the DS, what are you asking about in the first place? :-/
The problem was partially at my end…I was looking at the Quarq crank along with the instructions but did not yet have access to viewing the actual configuration of the crank on my bike…I just assumed that it would have allen bolts on both sides like the Quarq. Anyway, the main thing is that I don’t need any crank pulling tools or custom stuff like that plastic tool for the Shimano outboard style cranks. Any peculiar tricks on getting cadence magnet to pick up or is is dead easy like they say in the manual ?
Thanks for the details. It appears the Vision TTmax BB30 crankset that the bike came with has the spindle attached to the drive side. So perhaps with that specific crank I need to loosen the allen bolt from the non drive side and then tap the spindle with a mallet and have it come out from the drive side. Perhaps the Quarqs are unique to BB30 with Allen bolts on both sides?
Dev
My old Slice (RIP) came with an FSA crank. When I took the thing apart it was a single “fussy” 10mm Allen on the non-driveside and a well-placed hit with a mallet.
Thanks guys. All set to perform the “surgery” this evening. Hopefully it works out as straight forward as it sounds. I am hoping that all this “technology” will be a step up over my wired SRM Powercontrol 5 off a taper square bottom bracket. Something tells me that the technology will be cooler and the user experience will be nicer, but it will have zero impact on the fact that my quads are still powered by the same heart and lungs and the weight on my actual frame (that would be my skeleton) won’t change either.
I do like some of the features that the Quarq guys have over SRM in terms of battery replacement, Ant+ support (open standards) and auto zeroing. Will be interesting too see how all this works. I’ll probably have Tom A threatening to ship post office calibrated weights so that I can ensure that my slope is accurate (by the way, thanks for all the guidance a few years ago…now I can compare my SRM measurements to Quarq) :-).
One more note that will hopefully give you some confidence. I have a bb30 quarq I switch between my Evo and Slice. I can’t do it quite as fast as Tom’s video, but it is pretty easy. Certainly as easy as switching my old powertap (I would swap the cassette). On mine I just loosen one bolt with a hex wrench, wiggle and pull the drive side crank off and poke the nds out. I usually apply a touch of lube, wiggle both sides into the new bike, tighten the bolt and I’m good to go. I believe I’ve switched back and forth 5 times in the last two weeks. Note that if it is not well lubed it can be very difficult to remove. The first time I wasn’t able to do it myself, took it into the LBS and watched them use a big old hammer on it before it popped out. Good luck.
good luck tonight! Be sure to come back and let me know how it goes. Im still awaiting a magnet from quarq. Once it is here, will probably have the LBS do it once with me watching, if they are cool with that.
Anyone use their own magnet for this? Im going to mount it to the cable harness underneath, but was debating taping a small magnet to the frame to try it out while waiting. Would that work?
Thanks guys. All set to perform the “surgery” this evening. Hopefully it works out as straight forward as it sounds. I am hoping that all this “technology” will be a step up over my wired SRM Powercontrol 5 off a taper square bottom bracket. Something tells me that the technology will be cooler and the user experience will be nicer, but it will have zero impact on the fact that my quads are still powered by the same heart and lungs and the weight on my actual frame (that would be my skeleton) won’t change either.
I do like some of the features that the Quarq guys have over SRM in terms of battery replacement, Ant+ support (open standards) and auto zeroing. Will be interesting too see how all this works. I’ll probably have Tom A threatening to ship post office calibrated weights so that I can ensure that my slope is accurate (by the way, thanks for all the guidance a few years ago…now I can compare my SRM measurements to Quarq) :-).
Just for info, I’ve got a compact Elsa and changed from SRAM 50/34 to Praxis 52/36 rings and the slope was within .2%. And after the short settling in process, the zero offset is rock solid in ride (changes by no more than 5 counts). I think they got it right with the new product!
One more note that will hopefully give you some confidence. I have a bb30 quarq I switch between my Evo and Slice. I can’t do it quite as fast as Tom’s video, but it is pretty easy. Certainly as easy as switching my old powertap (I would swap the cassette). On mine I just loosen one bolt with a hex wrench, wiggle and pull the drive side crank off and poke the nds out. I usually apply a touch of lube, wiggle both sides into the new bike, tighten the bolt and I’m good to go. I believe I’ve switched back and forth 5 times in the last two weeks. Note that if it is not well lubed it can be very difficult to remove. The first time I wasn’t able to do it myself, took it into the LBS and watched them use a big old hammer on it before it popped out. Good luck.
Yeah…the GXPs (like the one in the video) are a LOT easier to “hand swap”.
If I was swapping a BB30 Quarq between bikes often, I think I’d see about getting a spare S900 or S975 crankset and then leaving the NDS and spindle in each bike. That way you just swap the DS/spider between bikes and don’t have to deal with tapping the spindle out/in…easy-peasy
Thanks guys. All set to perform the “surgery” this evening. Hopefully it works out as straight forward as it sounds. I am hoping that all this “technology” will be a step up over my wired SRM Powercontrol 5 off a taper square bottom bracket. Something tells me that the technology will be cooler and the user experience will be nicer, but it will have zero impact on the fact that my quads are still powered by the same heart and lungs and the weight on my actual frame (that would be my skeleton) won’t change either.
I do like some of the features that the Quarq guys have over SRM in terms of battery replacement, Ant+ support (open standards) and auto zeroing. Will be interesting too see how all this works. I’ll probably have Tom A threatening to ship post office calibrated weights so that I can ensure that my slope is accurate (by the way, thanks for all the guidance a few years ago…now I can compare my SRM measurements to Quarq) :-).
I think I need to bookmark this for whenever someone says “I don’t care if my PM is accurate, just so long as the relative numbers are consistent”
Flipping through the Big Blue Book now.