I’m toying with idea of going 3/32" on my track bike, e.g. road stuff. The Webs say that using the inner ring of a road crankset effectively achieves something very close to the track chainline. Has anyone done this? Any pitfalls? Any preferred cranksets? I’d prefer not to have to modify the rear end, e.g. have custom machined cogs or rear hubs.
No idea what you’re talking about…but I like your click bait thread title. In fact I hope that ALL thread titles will start with “Ashley Horner†from now until she abandons this shit show.
They should rename the site to “Ashleyhornertwitch.”
.
I’m toying with idea of going 3/32" on my track bike, e.g. road stuff. The Webs say that using the inner ring of a road crankset effectively achieves something very close to the track chainline. Has anyone done this? Any pitfalls? Any preferred cranksets? I’d prefer not to have to modify the rear end, e.g. have custom machined cogs or rear hubs.
It sounds like you have a track bike with a 144 bcd crank, so…
Shimano among others make 3/32" cogs.
TA and I’m sure others make 3/32", 144 BCD chainrings.
I raced a lot of track in the late 90’s on a 3/32" track setup. Works fine.
You say you don’t want to have to modify the rear. … just a caution that 3/32 cogs are still pretty rare and sometimes pricey. (Although less so than a few years ago)
Is becoming a bit more popular with enduros, but for sprinting I would stick with 1/8
Kinda. We converted a Cervelo P3SL to track using a road crankset. But, we used 1/8 instead of 3/32. We achieved a better chainline using the inner side, I think.
We could not see a reason to switch to harder to find and more expensive 3/32nd.
DM me your email if you’d like more info and photos.
David K
you can get track stuff in 3/32, and it does make some things a bit easier, like finding quicklinks/powerlinks.
for the rear you can get the Miche track stuff in 3/32, I use these in 1/8 and they have been good, makes swapping stuff a lot easier
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/miche-3-32-track-sprocket/rp-prod152788
I would be careful using non track chain rings, if the chain line is off, they can ship the chain much easier due to the shorter teeth, and the ramps on them for changing. dumping the chain on a fixed is not fun, especially aif the rear stays on!! been there, done that, got the scars etc.
I’d definatly go for a propper singlespeed chainring, you can find 3/32 stuff in non track BCD’s, as its made for hub gear stuff and tandems (synch chains can also be an issue)
No idea what you’re talking about…but I like your click bait thread title. In fact I hope that ALL thread titles will start with “Ashley Horner†from now until she abandons this shit show.
Every thread from here on in will have people posting the first comment as:
“WWAHD”
I raced a lot of track in the late 90’s on a 3/32" track setup. Works fine.
I was sort of hoping for the side benefit of running actual road cranks (130bcd) to have access to lower-cost power meters. But it seems that I’d probably end up being somewhat limited in ring selection. Not that I mess with gearing all that much since I’ve found ~98 inch-gears to be kind of a magical zone.
But I’ve kind of given up on the idea. Would probably create more hassle for myself than it’s worth. Just wish someone other than SRM would make crank-based power meters for track. But thanks for the feedback here, everyone.
One more possibility, adaptors do exist to get from road to track BCD, i think the idea was to use road powermeters, and I think they fix the chainline too.
Ooh, thanks. Will check that out.
Heath Dotson (Ex-Cyclist) runs that exact setup/adapter with a Quarq. Pick his brain maybe.
Ooh, thanks. Will check that out.
I have one of those. It works fine, but FYI it is for 110 bcd to 144. I think 130 to 144 is too tight. I used that for my TT/Pursuit bike at masters worlds last year.
This year I’m going 3/32†as the thinner chain has slightly less drive train friction than a 1/8†and I already have an assortment of 110 bcd chainrings for what I need.
Either way though will work.
This thread is way off topic. Let’s get it back on Ashley Horner…Now that IM Tremblant is over and the Vuelta is still a week away before Movistar can entertain us wiith the usual self detonations, we need the entertainment stand in. 3/32 chain is not doing it !!!
I’m toying with idea of going 3/32" on my track bike, e.g. road stuff. The Webs say that using the inner ring of a road crankset effectively achieves something very close to the track chainline. Has anyone done this? Any pitfalls? Any preferred cranksets? I’d prefer not to have to modify the rear end, e.g. have custom machined cogs or rear hubs.
I think Stages does Track with Dura-Ace 7710 and FSA cranks. 3/32" is more than adequate for track, the 3/32" chain has less friction and CdA.
-SD
It’s gonna be funny in 10 years when someone does a “resurrect a dead thread” on one of these “Ashley Horner and …” topics
.
I think Stages does Track with Dura-Ace 7710 and FSA cranks. 3/32" is more than adequate for track, the 3/32" chain has less friction and CdA.
Yeah, Stages does the 7710, and I have that on my mass start bike. But not any track FSA that I can find.
…oh wait, I think maybe you’re saying I could marry one of the “road” FSA left arms to the FSA track crank, as long as the interface is the same. I’ll check that out…good thought.
I agree about friction/aero which was why I’ve been eyeballing 3/32 for my pursuit bike. Of course I could just get another 7710 and get some 3/32 rings.
I raced a lot of track in the late 90’s on a 3/32" track setup. Works fine.
I was sort of hoping for the side benefit of running actual road cranks (130bcd) to have access to lower-cost power meters. But it seems that I’d probably end up being somewhat limited in ring selection. Not that I mess with gearing all that much since I’ve found ~98 inch-gears to be kind of a magical zone.
But I’ve kind of given up on the idea. Would probably create more hassle for myself than it’s worth. Just wish someone other than SRM would make crank-based power meters for track. But thanks for the feedback here, everyone.
Isn’t the main issue that most powermeters aren’t designed to handle reverse torque created using fixed?
I’m toying with idea of going 3/32" on my track bike, e.g. road stuff. The Webs say that using the inner ring of a road crankset effectively achieves something very close to the track chainline. Has anyone done this? Any pitfalls? Any preferred cranksets? I’d prefer not to have to modify the rear end, e.g. have custom machined cogs or rear hubs.
You’re grossly overthinking this.
Just make sure your fitness is 100% there.
You’re grossly overthinking this.
Just make sure your fitness is 100% there.
Half the fun of bikes is messing with bikes!