I’m going to finish up the cockpit change on my Slice tonight and was toying with the idea of just not using the in-line barrel adjusters for the shifter cables. Are they really necessary? I never ever used the in-line adjusters on my old bike. Seem like more of a PIA than anything. What should I do, just not use them?
i think you answered your own question
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It just depends. They aren’t strictly necessay, but some times a bike goes out of adjustment a tiny bit and in a race its nice to be able to adjust while riding.
I’ve got some wheels with slightly different spacing. Its easier to just put a new wheel in and adjust on the go rather than put the bike in a stand every time.
Styrrell
*I’ve got some wheels with slightly different spacing. Its easier to just put a new wheel in and adjust on the go rather than put the bike in a stand every time. *
Surely if the cassette position on your wheel hubs was different you would need to adjust the limit screw on your RD too. Just tweaking the cable tension would be unsatisfactory, wouldn´t it?
depends how different the spacing is.
I just reconfigured the cables in my Slice to come out the end of the extensions and enter the downtube from the top. When I did so, I did away with the barrel adjusters so the cable would make the bend more smoothly. I have had no problems whatsoever but I must advise you to pull the cables very taught when you tighten down the derailleur clamps. Another thing that helps too is to turn the barrel adjuster on your RD all the way in before you do this because you will have to unscrew it a bit after tightening down the cable so you want to have room to play with.
I don’t use them. If you’re using bar ends with a friction shift mode then the adjusters are even more unnecessary.
What Jack said. You can leave the limit screws out a bit. They just have to prevent the RD from going into the spokes or frame. Typically thw wheel to wheel variation is tiny, but it can be enough to get a bit of chain noise.
Styrrell