Maybe a 70.3?
I know a tri bike is best for triathlon. I know this. But the Allez Sprint is sick and I can swing one bike right now. I will never do crits.
Anyone?
I would guess that thousands of people have used that bike for a triathlon.
I would guess that thousands of people have used that bike for a triathlon.
I’m one of the thousands that have. Used it for 2 duathlons and 2 Sprint tris. Only added clip-on aero bars and replaced the saddle. Works fine for my needs as a novice in the sport.
Compared to a proper fitting tri bike, I’m sure that you leave time on the table due to aero position shortcomings. But that’ll be the case with just about any road bike.
Add race wheels which can be had for <$400 now, clip on aeros, and aero helmet, and there is nothing holding you back from winning the whole thing.
Maybe a 70.3?
I know a tri bike is best for triathlon. I know this. But the Allez Sprint is sick and I can swing one bike right now. I will never do crits.
Anyone?
Not that specific bike but I have ditched Tri bikes as I just don’t spend enough time on them to justify having one. S5 with clip-ons, rear disc wheel, aero helmet and a decent position all things considered. It certainly isn’t the bike holding me back.
In the 80s and a good chunk of the 90s folks raced all distances on road bikes w/clipons. It’s certainly doable. A dedicated tri bike is going to be faster and be more suitable to an aero position, but if you can only have one bike and do more than tris; a roadie w/clipons is the way to go.
But the Allez Sprint is sick and I can swing one bike right now. I will never do crits.
If you are talking about Allez Sprint SL, it is a sick bike for crits. Its a fun bike to ride, really jumps out of corners and in a sprint, not the best bike for triathlon but should be fine.
Maybe a 70.3?
I know a tri bike is best for triathlon. I know this. But the Allez Sprint is sick and I can swing one bike right now. I will never do crits.
Anyone?
lots of sub $1000 faster options on the used bikes market: cervelo p2c’s and p3c’s, cannondale slices, trek sc’s, felt b’s and da’s, specialized transitions, qr cd01’s etc.
lots of sub $1000 faster options on the used bikes market: cervelo p2c’s and p3c’s, cannondale slices, trek sc’s, felt b’s and da’s, specialized transitions, qr cd01’s etc.
Not sure where you live but I haven’t seen a roadworthy tri bike for under a grand since before Covid.
Maybe a 70.3?
I know a tri bike is best for triathlon. I know this. But the Allez Sprint is sick and I can swing one bike right now. I will never do crits.
Anyone?
lots of sub $1000 faster options on the used bikes market: cervelo p2c’s and p3c’s, cannondale slices, trek sc’s, felt b’s and da’s, specialized transitions, qr cd01’s etc.
Another option I’m considering; there is an aluminum P2-SL frame on eBay right now for $300. Thought It might be fun to have that or something similar built up.
Also a really nice soloist frame on there. But again, that’s a road bike.
As another poster mentioned, grab a specialized transition from eBay. There’s one with race wheels right now for $1100.
I’ve had the allez bike but it was a 2010 or so. Loved it. I used clip ons. But, I really loved my transition.
What model allez are you talking about? Is it disc brake? The newer more aero one?
If it is the older one is suggest getting another seatpost that can be setup with another saddle to make a swap when getting ready for a race to optimize a more aero position
Good luck.
The one I was thinking of is the sprint comp disc.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/allez-sprint-comp-disc/p/184442?color=293160-184442
I’m still deciding though lol. I may or may not have analysis paralysis at times.
my son has exactly that one and loves it. uses it for sprints and olys. disc brakes are the way to go in short technical bike legs as you often get in sprints.
extra bonus is in the rel. longer, outreaching 105 brifters which allow for a rel longer clip-on while still remaining ITU legal. for a 70.3 you would just get a full size clip-on and move the seat forward to the max.
lots of sub $1000 faster options on the used bikes market: cervelo p2c’s and p3c’s, cannondale slices, trek sc’s, felt b’s and da’s, specialized transitions, qr cd01’s etc.
Not sure where you live but I haven’t seen a roadworthy tri bike for under a grand since before Covid.
try facebook’s market place, they are all over the place
.
In the 80s and a good chunk of the 90s folks raced all distances on road bikes w/clipons. It’s certainly doable. A dedicated tri bike is going to be faster and be more suitable to an aero position, but if you can only have one bike and do more than tris; a roadie w/clipons is the way to go.
if you take a closer look, dude’s riding the nitto66 seatpost
Maybe a 70.3?
I know a tri bike is best for triathlon. I know this. But the Allez Sprint is sick and I can swing one bike right now. I will never do crits.
Anyone?
lots of sub $1000 faster options on the used bikes market: cervelo p2c’s and p3c’s, cannondale slices, trek sc’s, felt b’s and da’s, specialized transitions, qr cd01’s etc.
Another option I’m considering; there is an aluminum P2-SL frame on eBay right now for $300. Thought It might be fun to have that or something similar built up.
Also a really nice soloist frame on there. But again, that’s a road bike.
The more I think about It the more I think it’ll be cool to build this frame up with exactly what I want on It.
Being an older frame, am I going to run into problems getting new components to work on It? Like new shimano group set and integrated aero bars?
I think you’d be better off buying a complete bike, either new or used. Unless you have an abundance of parts lying around, you won’t save much, if any money. You also lose out on “opportunity” cost while waiting for parts.
You could probably find a way to make electronic shifting work, but it wouldn’t be straightforward and not a good use of money or time.
Gotcha. I thought you already owned it and we’re asking as to what your next steps should be. If you can get your hands on one, go for it. I don’t think I’ve heard a bad comment by anyone for them.
I think you’d be better off buying a complete bike, either new or used. Unless you have an abundance of parts lying around, you won’t save much, if any money. You also lose out on “opportunity” cost while waiting for parts.
You could probably find a way to make electronic shifting work, but it wouldn’t be straightforward and not a good use of money or time.
You’re right. I agree with what you’re saying.
But I’m not really trying to save money. I just think it would be cool to do. I’m not trying to spend a lot either though. I was thinking 105 group set, sweet gold chain, some look keo max pedals, something like a selle Italia watt saddle, maybe tri rig brakes, and some kind of “higher end†integrated bars (but not tri rig priced high end). Something like flo wheels. With a $300 frame I feel like I’d come out pretty good. Not much more than an $1800-$2500 used P2 or P3 but with better parts I picked out.
Just something I’m thinking about.
I think you’d be better off buying a complete bike, either new or used. Unless you have an abundance of parts lying around, you won’t save much, if any money. You also lose out on “opportunity” cost while waiting for parts.
You could probably find a way to make electronic shifting work, but it wouldn’t be straightforward and not a good use of money or time.
You’re right. I agree with what you’re saying.
But I’m not really trying to save money. I just think it would be cool to do. I’m not trying to spend a lot either though. I was thinking 105 group set, sweet gold chain, some look keo max pedals, something like a selle Italia watt saddle, maybe tri rig brakes, and some kind of “higher end†integrated bars (but not tri rig priced high end). Something like flo wheels. With a $300 frame I feel like I’d come out pretty good. Not much more than an $1800-$2500 used P2 or P3 but with better parts I picked out.
Just something I’m thinking about.
To clarify, I would be looking for used bars and wheels.