I am thinking about pulling the trigger on the alloy PowerTap wheelset (they seem to be available for around $700) but I can’t seem to find any reviews beyond a couple on Amazon (2) and a few (2) on other aggregation sites (the reviews are mixed). I have also searched the forum and don’t see many comments about this PowerTap setup.
I know that these are not the most expensive or best wheels out there but I am looking to get an entry level power meter without spending a ton of money. I like the ease of install so I am leaning towards this wheel/hub combo rather than a pedal or crank option. Stages is not an option for me based on setup and for slightly extra dollars, this would seem to avoid the one sided power issue. Also, I read DCRainmaker’s power meter review and he has had decent things to say about PowerTap.
Do any ST members have experience with these wheels? Can anyone offer any feedback before I take the plunge?
I agree; an awesome setup. I started with that very same wheel, and as far as I know it’s still going strong (sold it). A proven wheel and hub, and always easy to sell when and if you ever move to carbon deeper wheel. Smart move.
I am thinking about pulling the trigger on the alloy PowerTap wheelset (they seem to be available for around $700) but I can’t seem to find any reviews beyond a couple on Amazon (2) and a few (2) on other aggregation sites (the reviews are mixed). I have also searched the forum and don’t see many comments about this PowerTap setup.
I know that these are not the most expensive or best wheels out there but I am looking to get an entry level power meter without spending a ton of money. I like the ease of install so I am leaning towards this wheel/hub combo rather than a pedal or crank option. Stages is not an option for me based on setup and for slightly extra dollars, this would seem to avoid the one sided power issue. Also, I read DCRainmaker’s power meter review and he has had decent things to say about PowerTap.
Do any ST members have experience with these wheels? Can anyone offer any feedback before I take the plunge?
Thanks in advance.
I love mine. Use it with a gatorskin tyre. 0 maintenance, works forever, trainer and road, easy to swap. Friend has been using it a few times/week now over the winter: 0 complaints. Better battery time would be the only improvement, or maybe some coasting recharge mechanism.
Have had half/double readings a few times. Just remove and reinstall the doughnut and it solves it.
I have a G3 laced into a DT Swiss wheel from wheelbuilder, been using it for 2 seasons. PT cassette just pops off, install the disc cover, voila! Training wheel turns into a decent race wheel.
I just picked one up a couple months ago. I like the build. Only needed minor Trueing, and the powertap is awsome. I also ordered a wheel cover for it so I can race with power until I can afford a powertap race wheel.
I have bought two used Powertap set ups from friends and have loved both. The first was an SL+ that was made in 2004 and originally wired. When the wheel it was on died, I had it rebuilt into wireless to work with ANT+ and sent to Wheelbuilder and they made me a new set up. It has and continues to work great.
The reason I mention above is I bought an alloy set with the G3 and it is even better - lighter and never seems to have any ANT+ issues. I use them every time I ride my road bike. Only issue was that I think the prior owner when changing the battery forgot to reinstall a gasket, so in a downpour I think this destroyed the battery holder side of the hub (not the other electronics). I called Powertap and the sent me a replacement free and it keeps on running.
My only issue is the 32 spoke count. Kinda way over-built for anyone under 200 lbs and it limits your options for upgrading.
I scored a new 24 hole G3 for about 525$ on FleaBay. Lace that into a 80$ Flo 30 and you have a decent training/racing wheel. I stuck mine in a Flo 60 and have been happy.
I have them. Bought them from performance. I have about…6000 miles on them I guess. I broke a rear nondrive side spoke about 2,000 miles in, and then another rear nondrive spoke after about 5,000 miles. Both easily replaceable, and being 32 spokes I just opened my brakes and finished the ride. I have changed the battery two times, but one of those times I think the battery wasn’t a good one as it went out after about 1000 miles.
G3 works flawlessly. Really awesome. So much so that I just recently bought another on laced to some carbon tubulars. I’d definitely recommend.
This is the route I’ve been thinking of taking. Picking up a Flo rim and getting it built up with a G3. I’m only 155 lbs so 32 spoke count is aggressive. Just wondering how much it would end up costing me getting the rim, spokes, PT and paying to get it built (I’m not a wrench)
I’m using an SRM, but I have a set of DT460’s built up for my training/crit/weekeday race wheels. The rims are great; durable, tubeless-compatible if you’re so inclined, and I bet they’re more aero than a lot of significantly deeper rims, given the shape and the rim/braking surface interface. They remind me a lot of the older Shimano rims that tested well in the tunnel, but in a 23mm width vs 21.8. The 24/28 spoke count is great for most riders for an all-around wheelset.
When my bike with PT Pro+ wheel was stolen I didn’t hesitate to replace the power meter with a G3 in an alloy wheel. Took me longer to decide what to replace the bike with. The alloy wheel is rock solid, straight and true, and the data are high quality. I developed the VE algorithm based on data from my Power Tap hub.
A local shop shortened the spokes that came with my Flo 60s and rebuilt my wheel for 40$. I would dig up a cheap sealed bearing front hub with 20 spokes. Let’s say 20$ on EBay or classifieds. Figure 2.50-4.00$ per spoke. If you shop carefully you can probably get away with only spending 700$
There is a preivious thread with a lot of details on this issue. Search on Flo and PowerTap.
IIRC it’s a Mavic rim rebranded, their Ma2 or something like that. Pretty much bomb proof.
My set has > 6,000 miles on them in the last 15-18mo. never been trued yet still true. No issue with the hub. It’s been in rain more than once, it’s currently mud splattered (mainly bc I don’t clean my bike very often).
longtime company consultant Dr. Allen Lim said they still believe that the hub is still the most straightforward place to measure a rider’s output. “The hub is still the simplest and the best,” Lim said. “You have two things to measure: torque times angular velocity – how hard you’re pushing and how fast you’re pedaling. You just have to measure bending on that tube, and how fast it’s going around in circles. With crank arms, spiders and especially pedals, there is a lot more going on.” PowerTap certainly will continue to sell its hub and wheels, but adding power meters in two other components certainly gives the company and riders more options.