I’ve now done two IM’s and four 1/2 IM’s using my road bike with no aero bars. Previously I owned a tri-bike with bullhorns and aero bars. I’m just not sure that my times are slower/faster since my training changed from one year to another but I’m a heck of a lot more comfortable (although my QR was really comfy with no back or neck or otherwise problems in the 6 years I rode that bike).
I just can’t seem to find a reason for putting aero bars on my road bike but I see many persons that have converted their road bikes.
Does it make any sense to convert? I mean, my road bike is not really designed like a TT or Tri-bike.
Do a search of past threads (“Search posts”) and you will find plenty of discussions about this (e.g. “Slam-bars”).
If you already successfully completed “several” IM races without aerobars, why are you questioning yourself? Just because everybody has them on their bikes?
Here on this forum most people would probably suggest that you should be admitted to a “mental health institution” for your heretic comments. The wrong place to ask for support
I searched the posts and found the one where you showed some products including the Speen. Don’t know what to think of it. Looks goofy.
Yeah, I guess I’m wondering what it is that everyone else knows that I clearly don’t since I see so many road bikes converted with the aero bars. I know aero bars save time (when one is in the aero position) but I think I can get fairly aero on my road bike.
Actually I’m thinking about adding the Cinelli aero bar which does not have an arm rest but which would still allow me to tuck in a bit more.
There are multiple manufacturers who offer bars that can be set up to work on a road bike (meaning, you can shorten the extensions significantly (so that they do not break the plane of the STI-levers): Profile, HED, Cinelli and others offer appropriate bars. Most of them have a significant stacking height for the arm rests, speak: Your arms will rest much higher than the handlebars (1-2").
You basically would need a road bike that can be set up “competitively”, meaning slightly smaller frame and a good drop (2-4") between saddle and handlebars. You might need a shorter stem too.
You can fiddle around on your own, but as a starter I would go to a good bike shop that knows how to fit you on a “Slam-position”. If they do not know what you are talking about or try to sell you a Tri-bike, look for the door.
IMO - don’t convert fully. I have a road bike and use clip on Profile Designs - forget the model , but the ones where the pads have a spring so you can still ride with your hands near the stem. Do I get the best aero fit? No, but it is not too terrible. Do I gain some time with the clip ons? Yes. I did a test and get about an extra mile per hour or so with the clip ons vs. drops. I’m not very low yet either so there is still some room (lots) for impOver an IM that is quite a bit of time. My split was 5:38 at IMCDA. My buddy who had a similar set up was a 5:07, another 5:28. OK so they all smoked me, but my point is that you can still have a respectable split with a road bike and you do not NEED to convert. Could we all be faster on full tri bikes? Probably. By how much? Who knows. I wouldn’t mind experimenting with that new QR though…
Just look at old picures of Lemond and Indurain on their ole slack tube TT bikes, certainly road bikes with TT bars. They could cruise and so can you. Don’t buy into the hype you need a 78 degree bike to TT. Most pro’s are using less than 74 degree and the UCI doesn’t even allow the steep stuff. So to be real, the fastest TTers on the planet have road bikes (granted some aero tubing) with aero bars.
As a fast TTer on my own planet, I’m a sub 59 min 40k TTer and only own clip on bars. Our states fastest guy (50min 40k) has nothing fancy.
Lances road frame and TT frame has the same Geometry (road frame) and TT’s rather well.
I agree. I kind of bought into the road bike geometry concept for triathlons about a year and a half ago when it was time for me to upgrade. Basically I sold all my old bikes including my steep angle bike and bought a light carbon frame road bike and haven’t looked back. My big dilemma has been whether or not to add aero bars and lower the stem, adjust the seat angle etc. or keep the road set-up. I’ve had good results the way it is and I tend to mainly only do long course. My LBS guy, who I respect a lot, told me that I could shave 20 minutes on the IM course using aero bars and that has had me really thinking about the subject. If I go to certain sites the calculations do show big improvements - if I’m aero but again, I think I can be fairly aero without the aero bars.
On the other hand, if I trained more or properly I could cut even more time.
I believe you will be somewhat faster just by slapping on some clip-ons and not making much, if any, change to your “road” position. But there is also another advantage. There is less upper body fatigue when using aero bars since you are supported by your skeleton. This should lead to a faster run spit! CST
Forget about steep geometry v slack geometry for a moment. Riding without aero bars puts you at a huge aerodynamic disadvantage. Get em on. There are plenty of roadies who ride pretty well with aero bars on a slack frame!
Personally, I am a disciple of the steep. But I appreciate it is not for everyone. Suggest you read all the stuff here re the “slam” position if you decide to stick with slack geometry.
I can recommend the Oval Slam bars on your road bike. The main advantage is a toss up between being more comfortable or being more aero. Both give you an advantage over basic road seating position, which should translate into time off your bike, and your run. Plus, the Slams don’t screw up the road bike aesthetics too much
Aero bars on your road bike makes perfect sense, especially if it is the only bike you now have. I have both a tri bike and a road bike, but still have aero bars on my road bike too. I find that I can get faster times when I get down on the aeros when riding the road bike. It allows me to ‘rest’ a bit too, since my weight is now off of my hands, arms and other regions and on the skeleton. When down in that position, I also find that my cadence goes up, my speed goes up and I feel more comfortable.
My road bike is in the standard road geometry, but the addition of the aero bars gives me more options, especially on those long 4 to 6 hour rides. I come off of those rides more comfortable than I did before I had the aero bars.
I have used two types on my road bike. I have the Jammer bars and Profile Aerolites. On my older road bike, I liked the Jammers. The bike had a longer top tube and these fit great. However, my newer bike has a shorter top tube and the Jammers made me feel bunched up (I needed about 1 cm more). I picked up the Aerolites and haven’t looked back. I was able to adjust them to a near perfect fit.
You will find the aero bars a true advantage to you on your road bike, especially if you do the longer distances as you say. You will come off the bike more relaxed and ready to run (and with a faster bike split too!).
Just make sure that you get the bars that are right for you and your bike. All aero bars are not created equal.
I agree, much less body fatigue. Next time you are on the trainer check out the difference in your HR. Mine drops 5 - 8 beats when down on the bars at the same speed.
Have not heard any comments regarding the ability to run off the slack bike. Just curious, I ride a Trek 5500 w/ a slightly forward seat post & seat (I measured it just under 76 deg), but have been considering getting a full on tri bike.
