My bike came with a 9 speed dura-ace component package when I bought it used a little over a year ago. I’ve put 5,000 miles on it, I need to replace the cassette and I may need to replace the crankset (I’ve already replaced the rings, but the actual crankset is just a tad bit bent so that the chain rubs against the front derailleur intermittantly unless the front derailleur is perfectly centered. I’m looking at replacing some of these components, as well as the rear derailleur, which is starting to stick.
So if my kestrel km40 came with a 9 speed package, will it fit a 10? Will my H3 wheels? What do I need to change if I buy a 10 speed cassette? Would I need to buy new derailleurs? I don’t want to spend a ton of money on buying a new cassette, but I also have a frame that I love and I’m not looking to buy a new bike any time soon - so I need to keep updated my bike with parts that aren’t worn out.
Yes the h3 wheels and frame will fit a 10. If you buy a 10 speed casette you would need to change a lot. 9 speed probably wont go out of style for awhile so i would recommend just sticking with a 9 if you aren’t willing to fork out the cash to upgrade everything to a 10.
I’d just get a new 9-sp cassette…either Shimano or SRAM. You’d need a few other parts if you switched to 10sp and there’s no big advantage. How do you know that the crankset is bent?
I would stay with the 9 speed for simplicity sake. If you need an easier gear, just buy a cassette with 2-3 more teeth on it. This will make your life (and cycling) much easier.
5000 miles. You’re tough on the drivetrain. Like everybody said stick with the 9 and save some $$. Although save more by replacing your chain more often, and clean it regularly. Clean drivetrains will treat you right!
I’ve had two LBS mechanics tell me that. It’s not enough to slow me down necessarily, but it’s just enough that I usually need to trim my front deraileur when I shift gears in the back. A new dura ace crankset is expensive (so is an ultegra for that matter), so I’m trying to just stay with buying a new 9 speed cassette.
Hey Trirookie
*Stay with the 9 speed, a 10 speed cassette is big bucks and you would not feel the difference. *
*My new cross bike has Ultega 10 Speed and I don’t feel any difference. *
*And I can not think of a way you could have bent your Dura-Ace crank? They are a rock, you will always have to trim the front derailleur is you’re at the extremes of you’re cassette ie:53/12 or 39/25 that’s just 9 and 10 speed. * Did you bike shop tell you your crank was bent? So stay with 9 speed Dura-Ace is always nicer then Ultega, and I would find out about that “bent Crank” a little trimming is always going to happen. Dan…
Is your bike equipped with 9-spd bar end shifters or road shifters? If the answer is road shifters then I would add that the main difference (other than an additional gear choice) is the amount of force/pressure required to effect gear shifts - much less with Dura Ace 10-spd. I changed mine on my TT/Tri bike for ease of compatibility among the other two 10-speed equipped bikes but if you are using bar end shifters then there is not much reason to upgrade. If you do decide to upgrade, in addition to a 10-speed cassette, while you can get away with using the 9-speed front deraileur you will need to upgrade the rear deraileur and bar end shifters. the same applied for Dura Ace 9-speed road shifters but in that case I would consider replacing the front deraileur as well if for no other reason than to maintain a unified drive-train.
can not think of a way you could have bent your Dura-Ace crank?
Agree, but it is always possible that an external force bent one or more fingers of the spider to which the chainrings attach which would result in a lateral hop of the chainring as it turns.
*Hey ms6073 *
*I guess that could happen but in my 20 year of competitive cycling I have never bent a crank. I have has some big chain rings that rubbed a tad but I think that is built in to some chain ring to help facilitate shifting from the small to large chain ring. *
I have 5 bikes with 5 different cranks and to tell you the truth I can not feel any difference between them? I have XT on my MTB, Profile Carbon on my TT, Dura-Ace on my road bike and a new FSA carbon on my new cross bike and a Ritchey on my old cross bike, And I can not detect any flexing or bending in any of them and I’m 6’1” and 160 to 165lbs. * A 9 speed Dura-Ace crank should not bend at that point unless you’re a 250lbs track sprinter, and even then you would bend the chain ring before you tweaked a crank. I would check the large chain ring for a bend. My 2 cents Dan…
can not think of a way you could have bent your Dura-Ace crank?
Agree, but it is always possible that an external force bent one or more fingers of the spider to which the chainrings attach which would result in a lateral hop of the chainring as it turns.
I’m not trying to start an argument here, but it is bent. I thought it might just be the chain ring, but it was not. It’s not that I just have to trim my derailleur when I shift gears - I know that is always the case. When it’s even remotely close to the front derailleur, it hits intermittently, much like a wheel that is out of true hits a brake pad. This is what tells me that one of the fingers of the spider is bent. It’s not the end of the world, it’s just kind of annoying to know that it’s bent and that I’ve got a very expensive dura-ace crank that doesn’t work properly. I don’t know how it possibly could have happened, since I bought the bike used.
I have a constant debate over whether I should just keep it the way it is, and deal with the annoying factor - thus saving money, and the difference in weight since I would probably replace it with an Ultegra crank, or shell out the big bucks for a new dura-ace crank for bling appeal.
Is it possible that the chainring is warped / bent, not the crank? an impact to the chainring could also cause the symptoms you describe. Diagnose the problem by using a gauge between a fixed point on the frame (eg a point on the downtube) and the inner side of each chainring bolt (taking care to make sure the gauge is square to the downtube). That will tell you definitively if it is the spider or not.
It is extremely rare that the spider itself would be bent, since the chainring is much weaker and would deform first in the event of some unusual force. If it is bent, it is likely a manufacturing defect and not an accident or impact that caused it.
Is your bike STI or bar end shifters?
If it is STI you’ll need to change the shifters, the crank and BB the chain and the cassette. 9S brakes and deraileurs are fine - you’ll most likely need new cables as well.
If you have the cash do it! - A noticeable improvement in shifting, and the extra gear removes one annoying 2-teeth jump on a 12-23 cassette.
You can find tons of used 9sp cranks on e-bay, craigslist, etc these days. I would bet you could pick up a nice Ultegra or DA for 50-75 bucks with so many people upgrading to 10sp these days. It does seem hard to believe you bent your crank however. Maybe it was damaged and then installed on your bike when you bought it used…
I find the biggest difference between 9 and 10 speed (DA) is the bottom bracket stiffness - but I think it is the design change and the bearing set up rather than the crank arms. They are not that hard to flex to be fair :-). The 10speed chain rings are quite soft and quite easy to destroy! I would go the new chain/cassette, or the entire groupset - which is expensive, and probably not worth it. 9 and 10 speed hub bodies are totally compatable (some 10 speed are not backward compatible - such as DA wheels). If you go new - Ultegra is very good performance for money (stiffer than DA).